Cancel the alternator order.
// The only way the alternator could be the culprit is if its pulley seizes suddenly and breaks the belt. This is very unlikely. Try to turn the pulley of the alternator by hand.

At this mileage you should replace all the tensioners. They could be one reason why the belt shredder. Replace all the plastic pulleys as well.

Below is the front main seal (that is on the front output of the crankshaft) replacement video. There you can see what others are talking about. If you are very unlucky, the shredded belt gets squeezed behind the harmonic balancer (the largest pulley, sits on the crankshaft) and it damages the front main seal and pieces of the belt end up in the oil pan.

Here is a link where you can see a damaged front main seal:
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43156

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Btn2E2wnyoU

 

Budgetballer: And then the pieces clog the oil pump and it destroys your engine in about 3 minutes.

Serious situation. Drain the oil through a screen, look for pieces. Put a borehole camera through the oil drain. Look for pieces. Don't drive it until you've got all the pieces out, usually by dropping the oil pan and removing the valve cover.

Don't overlook this or you'll be calling the junkyard to sell the car for parts.

 

So I just got the pulley and belt today, about to go work on it tomorrow with my buddy. So whats the torque spec for the tensioner and pulleys? I dont want to make it too weak or too tight and have to go through this all over again. Also, does anybody have any repair manual recommendations that would show how to do stuff like this? And if anybody has the pulley diagram for the 2008 535xi cause it didnt come with my tensioner like I thought it would.

 

Here are couple of links. Both are official websites for BMW... Use your VIN number to get info on your vehicle...

Parts and diagrams: www.realoem.com

How to's and diagrams: www.newtis.info

Real OEM doesnt show the belts. I looked in engine and engine electrical system, all I found was a diagram of the alternator but no serpentine belt.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=NV93-USA-07-2008-E60N-BMW-535xi

NewTIS I cant find anything about the serpentine belt either.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e60-535xi-lim/repair-manuals/

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=NV93-USA-07-2008-E60N-BMW-535xi&diagId=11_3969

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e60-535xi-lim/repair-manuals/12-engine-electrical-system/12-31-alternator-with-drive-mounting-parts/Oqv82FN

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e60-535xi-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-28-drive-belt-with-tensioning-deflecting-element/1M5SyqCd

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e60-535xi-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-28-drive-belt-with-tensioning-deflecting-element/OjScn7s

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=535...=0ahUKEwjV3OPW8b_bAhUPeKwKHVwQBHkQsAQIKA&biw=1475&bih=930#imgrc=Opby0OiM14f2TM:

Second picture says it is a 2008 535xi

 

Did you check the oil sump for pieces?

 

Were doing it right now, im kind of stuck on what to do at the radiator fam. I want to take it out so i can check all those pulleys. I havent started the car since starting the thread. Heres a picture of where im at. What else should i take out and how? Im thinking the radiator fan but its got all those hoses hooked up to it and i dont want to get fluid all over. I also need help on how to take this pulley to the left of the alternator pulley. The rest have spots for torx screws but that one has like a circle and I need to take it out cause there's pieces of the belt stuck behind it and it has a hard time turning unlike the others.

Thanks for the help guys

 

I don't have the turbo engine so you might have more hoses around but I always remove the fan when working in that area. It's not that difficult.

The procedure also calls for removing the fan:
"remove fan cowl"
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...r-manuals/11-engine/11-28-drive-belt-with-tensioning-deflecting-element/OjScn7s

here is how to remove it:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...r-manuals/11-engine/11-28-drive-belt-with-tensioning-deflecting-element/PxUcdrA

As expected it doesn't call for opening up any coolant or AC line. It's only about detaching those hoses from holders.

The tensioner pulley has a plastic cover on it. Pry it off.

 

There are pictures here about the fan shroud. You can see there what's holding it in place

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fan-shroud/17427569921/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fan-assembly-with-frame/17427603658/

 

Ok so we got underneath it and after taking the shroud out we see this pulley or gear in the center of the picture out of it***8217;s spot. You guys know what that piece is called and how to put it back on right? I only have jack stands to work with. It***8217;s close to the driver side.

 

Also had these fallout when we got the shrout off. Any idea what they are for?

 

Looks like the AC compressor pulley

 

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1074601

 

Here's the problem you're trying to deal with: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990 Possibly the best FYI I've seen on this. Read it.

Well, a pulley dropped off is a new one. Usually not the cause of a dropped>>spun>>shredded belt. Usually just slips off the tensioner.

So two things now:

1. Find out where the pulley came from: AC compressor, Alternator, PS pump, crank pulley and the tensioner stuff. Tensioner and alternator pulley look good in previous pics. Give the PS pump a look -- down by the end of the steering wheel shaft. I'm guessing you lost the AC compressor pulley like acoste says. That's on the lower passenger side. In either case, you need to fix it before you can put on a new belt.

SO; parts, so far: Contitech tensioner and belt kit, and whichever unit's pulley failed. If it's the AC compressor, just get a new one at this mileage. Denso, if I recall. Some searching should get it for $250(?) or so. (Just saw acoste's pulley replacement post. At 80Kor so I'd try it. With 140 on the compressor...dunno.)

and

2. Damage, if any, from the belt spun around the crank pulley. Carefully examine the area behind the crank pulley, look for anything jammed in there. Drain the oil through a filter, look for pieces. Remove the oil filter and look for pieces in that area. You want to see nothing as you explore. If you see no pieces, breathe a sigh of relief, then go to your nearest store to get a pipe inspection or borehole camera. Take the oil drain plug so you can see if the camera is small enough to fit.

Here's a cheap one, with a .85CM camera. That's pretty narrow, but I have no idea what the size of the oil drain is. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pipe-Inspe...677&rk=1&rkt=30&sd=173294432396&itm=113028859172&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

This is only an example, but you get the point. This is supposed to keep you from having to drop the pan unless you find something in there. My guess is that if you find no pieces in the sump you dodged a bullet.

If you find anything in the sump, then you have to dig deeper. That means dropping the pan and checking the oil pump intake...and the valve Cover to check the top end and timing chain.

This is major suckage, I know -- but you might have gotten lucky.

 

It got dark and started storming. I had to go buy new oil pans after my last post to drain the oil cause I don***8217;t want those hoses that put oil into the radiator fan holster leaking all over. We***8217;re going back at it tomorrow.

So I have had a minor oil leak for a few months now and from what I***8217;m seeing I***8217;m going to be taking quite a bit apart. Would I be able to diagnose the leak and fix it myself with all the stuff I***8217;m taking off to replace those pulleys and checking if there***8217;s chunks in the oil? If so I***8217;ll just buy the parts and come back here to seek guidance from you guys cause the only place that works on foreign cars in town here is a dealership that basically has a monopoly.

They tried telling me I had a transmission problem when I told them to check that leak out a few months ago. I took it to a tranny specialist the next day who does free diagnostic and said nothing she wrong with it but I had a minor oil leak. The dealership quoted me $3000 to fix the oil leak. So in other words I can***8217;t trust them and feel I need to just learn how to do it all myself and I got a couple friends who drive the same types of cars who like working on themselves too.

If it***8217;s not that much more taking apart I want to do fix the leak while I***8217;m taking care of the belt and pulleys. If it***8217;s significantly more work I***8217;ll wait until my buddy who had an E60 he worked on a lot comes to town and do it with him and just be satisfied with taking care of the belt and pulleys for a couple weeks.

Advice on how to go forward with the other problems that could be potentially fixed while I got it all pulled apart would be appreciated. I***8217;ll check back tomorrow when we get started. I***8217;m about to read all the posts and guides you***8217;ve suggested since my last post after posting this since you shared quite a few links to look over.

 

You can bypass the AC pulley if you want to or don't really need AC in your climate. I did that on my car a number of years ago, and I have put a lot of milage on the car since then. Search my posts for the belt length. I do recall reading a post from not so long ago regarding replacement of just the pulley but have not been able to source that part.

 

So we got the fan out and confirmed it***8217;s the AC pulley. But we***8217;re still trying to get this air box in the center of the image out of the way so we can check for scraps behind the pulleys. We got all the fasteners loosened on the top and popped the top parts off but it***8217;s a solid piece all the way to the bottom. Any idea how***8217;ve to get that out? Also included picture of where that AC pulley goes so you can judge if I just need to pop a new pulley on.

 

So we got the fan out and confirmed it's the AC pulley. But we're still trying to get this air box in the center of the image out of the way so we can check for scraps behind the pulleys. We got all the fasteners loosened on the top and popped the top parts off but it's a solid piece all the way to the bottom. Any idea how've to get that out? Also included picture of where that AC pulley goes so you can judge if I just need to pop a new pulley on.

What you are looking at in the photos is the remaining part of the AC pulley, particularly the inner bearing race. This is exactly what happened to me except for the destroyed belt. I did find a post from someone who managed to just replace the AC pulley but I'm not sure where they sourced the pulley.

 

My guess is that you have an oil pan gasket leak. And you have a 535xi. Pulling the pan will allow you to inspect for any pieces of belt and remove them. Bad news it that it is a 10 hours of labor job for someone that knows what they are doing. It took me a couple weeks. You have to remove the front axles which run through the oil pan along with supporting the engine from above because you have to drop the sub frame. If you have the patience it is straight forward. And cheap. <$100.

I would also replace the oil filter housing gasket.

The 2 questions that remain are

1-is the compressor bad? What happened with that pulley?

2-do you need to replace the front main seal? Did part of the gasket get sucked through

If you are going to tackle this you are going to have to buy a service manual.

The $3000 was high but not trying to screw you. I was quoted $1800 for just the oil pan gasket. If they were doing your oil pan and a couple other gasketa


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest

 

My guess is that you have an oil pan gasket leak. And you have a 535xi. Pulling the pan will allow you to inspect for any pieces of belt and remove them. Bad news it that it is a 10 hours of labor job for someone that knows what they are doing. It took me a couple weeks. You have to remove the front axles which run through the oil pan along with supporting the engine from above because you have to drop the sub frame. If you have the patience it is straight forward. And cheap. <$100.

I would also replace the oil filter housing gasket.

The 2 questions that remain are

1-is the compressor bad? What happened with that pulley?

2-do you need to replace the front main seal? Did part of the gasket get sucked through

If you are going to tackle this you are going to have to buy a service manual.

The $3000 was high but not trying to screw you. I was quoted $1800 for just the oil pan gasket. If they were doing your oil pan and a couple other gasketa

Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest

Hmm, I gotta get it going in the next day or two so I'll have to wait and just deal with the leak like I have been if its going to take that long. Right now I'm trying to find the torque specs to that crank shaft bearing I took of to check the seal (NO CHUNKS FROM FILTER, DRAIN OR CRANK SHAFT SEAL!!! ).

Not sure what its called on NewTIS these are what I found but I'm not 100% sure so I thought I'd double check with you guys where the torque spec is before we put it back on:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...2/a/en/e60-535xi-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-21-crankshaft-bearings/5gkJWZK

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...2/a/en/e60-535xi-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-21-crankshaft-bearings/5ZdOhqJ

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...2/a/en/e60-535xi-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-21-crankshaft-bearings/5lczhHp

I'd show you the picture of the seal behind that crank pulley if my phone didnt die and I'm having problems with my charger. I'll share the pic later when I get my phone charged. I'm waiting on that replacement AC pulley and a borehole camera to look in that oil drain before we can put the belt on.

 

Let me argue again for a borehole camera -- if you can find one small enough to fit through the drain hole.

If the pan is clean, you should be OK and can concentrate on other matters. Dropping the pan should be an absolute last resort.

The tech is there -- use it if you can.

 

Here is a picture of a front main oil seal. When you look at yours, you should be able to see the detail of the mold and maybe even part numbers. If it looks scuffed up or torn or anything like that you need to look further.

 

It looks fine to me. I had to take a picture to look cause I don***8217;t want to take my radiator out and I got enough space to use my tools after taking the fan out. What do you guys think? I took a pic with flash and without.

 

What did the belt cost you? Can you post links? My 2007 is at 138k so this is scary...

Please send me links of what all you bought.

I'm working with a 2008 535xi with 140k miles on it.

So yesterday I heard a thrashing sound after a light turned green as i was accelerating forward. This was followed by my power steering failing, charging error, no charging ports, and air conditioner becoming weak. Panicing me was a block from Orielly autoparts, they ran a diagnostic amd said it was the alternator and sold me some power steering fluid just in case. So after ordering new alternator last night I took another look at it. From what im seeing its just my serpentine belt that was broke. I do have an oil leak but the belt was dry so I don't think that caused it to come off the rotating pieces as is a suggested cause in other posts. Is there any way to tell if the alternator is bad as well? I want to just resell the alternator I get if it was just the belt.

On how to fix videos they also replace the pulley tensioner. How do I know if I need that? I'm going to fix it myself so I want to know what all parts to order. Also, what is the parts the belt rotates on called? I'm not a mechanic but I'm a pretty smart dude and normally fix stuff myself with do it yourself videos on YouTube so I dont know what all the parts are. One of those appears to have tangled a piece that splintered off the belt so I'm assuming thats why it snapped. That piece still has a chunk stuck in it and its harder to rotate than the others so do I need to replace that part or you think once i get it opened up and unwrap the piece of the belt twisted in there it will be fine?

From other posts I saw something about having to check the oil for chunks but im not seeing how it would possibly send chunks in there. How would I check for that? Just empty the oil like i would changing it? I do see little pieces on the drivers side laying on other tubes and the shrout but everything is looks closed off so I dont see how it would end up in the engine oil.

I have included what pictures i could from observations without taking anything apart yet. Looking for advice from people who have done this before.

 

Read the rest of the thread. It's all there.

 

So the new pulley came and low and behold it doesn***8217;t fit, only has 3 groves vs the 6 on the OEM part. BUT the caps are the same and it appears the screw part fell off so I think just using the new cap would work. What do you guys think?

 

So the new pulley came and low and behold it doesn't fit, only has 3 groves vs the 6 on the OEM part. BUT the caps are the same and it appears the screw part fell off so I think just using the new cap would work. What do you guys think?

Might be possible. You will have to r and r the bearing on the pulley as well. May not be the correct size but you can measure it.

 

Also noticed that the center of the cap just snapped off. You think the pulley refused to turn from the AC compressor itself failing and the belt trying to force it to move thus breaking the belt or you think the belt breaking caused it to snap off?

 

I think it's bearing failure in the pulley that was the beginning of the issue. Exactly the same thing happened to me but in my case the belt fell off into the belly pan and didn't get shredded.

 

I***8217;m going to try putting it on with the new cap but I have problems getting this pipe that***8217;s hooked in near the alternator and into the radiator and that big vacuum (turbo vacuum?) that runs across the front of the engine out of the way to fit the new pulley in the AC condenser. What are these parts and how do I get them off? And what fluids would come out? I drained my oil a couple days ago.

 

I'm going to try putting it on with the new cap but I have problems getting this pipe that's hooked in near the alternator and into the radiator and that big vacuum (turbo vacuum?) that runs across the front of the engine out of the way to fit the new pulley in the AC condenser. What are these parts and how do I get them off? And what fluids would come out? I drained my oil a couple days ago.

The silver pipes are the AC refrigerant lines. Don't mess with them. If you remove the rad there's way more space to work. That's just engine coolant.

 

So the inward "valleys" of the pulley are considered groves, not the "peaks" that stick outward? May have been my problem with the parts. I'm going with the bypass and will complete the AC repair after I get the correct size pulley. How many inches you take off of your measurement? I'm about to install the new tensioner and then will try to get a measurement tomorrow. Its raining today

 

I would leave the tensioner off the car and do the measurements. Makes it easier if you have a second pair of hands. Also, use a very flexible tape measure that you can pull snug like a tailor's tape. Subtract about an inch, then check for belts approximately the same length. Buy two on either side of the measured length. They come in 1/2 inch increments.

Put the belt on first and check the length before you install the tensioner. You can apply some tension with your thumb to see how much it deflects. You want a minimal amount of deflection, so the tensioner can do it's job properly but not so tight that you can't get it over the pulleys easily.