Should I buy has 90K miles
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Hello,
I was about to buy a 2007 650i convertable with 90K miles. I thought that most cars are driven further now, then I heard that BMWs have all kind of problems around this point. Can you tell me if this is true?
I was about to buy a 2007 650i convertable with 90K miles. I thought that most cars are driven further now, then I heard that BMWs have all kind of problems around this point. Can you tell me if this is true?
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There are some on the forum with high mileage 6ers that will better be able to chime in here. One thing that is a consensus on this board is never owning a 6er without a warranty. If you consider the car look into the warranty as an extra added expense because they go hand and hand. I would personally go for a older model year with less mileage if i were you though. 90K miles is way to much for this car in my opinion.
+1 :thumbup:
Don't even think about buying this car unless you're willing to pay for a good aftermarket warranty coverage.
Don't even think about buying this car unless you're willing to pay for a good aftermarket warranty coverage.
+2
In my experience it is a very bad idea to own a BMW that is older than ~ 14 years (plastics breakdown = electrical and other problems) or has more than ~110K miles (very expensive components wear out around this mileage - transmission, etc...)
In my experience it is a very bad idea to own a BMW that is older than ~ 14 years (plastics breakdown = electrical and other problems) or has more than ~110K miles (very expensive components wear out around this mileage - transmission, etc...)
If it's cheap enough & you have plenty of money to spare, go for it! Otherwise listen to the experience! :dunno:
Meh.........I haven't had a warranty since 2008. On the other hand I can do my own maintenance and when i'm Lazy the labor here is Cheap as dirt.
I have been in South East Asia since 2009. Luckily I can order parts from the states because the State Department has an address I can use. I also plan to keep this car forever.
I have been in South East Asia since 2009. Luckily I can order parts from the states because the State Department has an address I can use. I also plan to keep this car forever.
Here is my 2 cents. I feel nothing is wrong with a high mileage car IF and I say IF the car is maintained properly. If you are able to pull the service records, review it and see what was done to the car. If major components have been replaced then you know you have some life left until the next replacements. Also depends on where this car has been over the years. I would quickly purcahse a car in a state such as florida versus one that was in NY. A friend of mine does sales and drives a lot. He racks up over 30K a year! But his driving his highway miles. I would take that car over a car that is doing more city driving with less mileage.
So in the end it all depends on the shape the car is in and the deal on the car. You might have significant funds left over to get a decent warranty any way since I see where companies now offer coverage as long as your car does not hit 100K.
So in the end it all depends on the shape the car is in and the deal on the car. You might have significant funds left over to get a decent warranty any way since I see where companies now offer coverage as long as your car does not hit 100K.
High mileage bimmers....
Wow - reading some of these "wise - experienced posts" one would be scared to own a newer bimmer. Man - you see I believe I have a lot of experience with bimmers - having had 5 myself over the last 20 some odd years. My initial concept for bimmer ownership was not to own a bimmer with more than 70k miles on it - I figured that once it hit that magic mark expensive things started needing replacement and depreciation really starts to take its toll. I still believe that if you are moving along in the world of bimmers in an upwardly mobile spiral. However, now I have gone back in time and bought a 1985 635 CSI Euro and it is lovely, in great shape exterior wise and interior wise - where it needed attention was in the "deferred maintenance" category.
This is universal - doesn't matter what year you buy - if maintenance has been deferred watch out. Always look for records - and in the case of newer 6 series apparently you should figure in the cost of an extended warranty (be careful - not all extended warranties are equal). Can't buy one over 100k- well this one has 90k miles - tain't far away - better get one quick. Again another issue - which extended warranty to buy - I'm sure there is a thread here about that! Now- back to my example - I bought this beautiful old 6 series - had lot done and needed lots more maintenance - bought it for 8k and have put about 7k in it in maintenance - did it all at once and got it over with - so where can you get a fully sorted 635CSI for that or have any more fun than that for relatively low dollars - not many places - not for a car that is really pretty and definitive of the marque - imho.
So is this car a good buy - when buying any hi mileage bimmer - know your "animal" - what goes wrong at 90k? How bout checking if the water pump has been replaced - that if it blows can cause you all kinds of headaches if you're stranded. Ask me how I know- well on second thought - don't ask. But there are forum threads here on what goes wrong with these cars at high mileage - read up on it - don't go into any older car or newer car with hi mileage lightly. The engines will surely go well over 100k miles. Mine has just over 100k miles - maintain it properly and it will go 300k miles - ok - so just on acount of high miles don't let a good one slip by - IF as one other said - IF it's been maintained. If the records are sketchy and the price not too low - pass and go on to the next one cause you can learn some mighty expensive lessons the hard way. Depends on how you're situated financially - in other words don't buy this cause it's a bimmer and it's just "cheap" enough for YOU to get in - thinking nothing will happen cause it's a bimmer - WRONG!
Just be careful - have it checked out - ever heard of a PPI? Pre purchase inspection - remember that and get one on this one if you're really serious and look at all records.
My 2 cents....
Tim
Wow - reading some of these "wise - experienced posts" one would be scared to own a newer bimmer. Man - you see I believe I have a lot of experience with bimmers - having had 5 myself over the last 20 some odd years. My initial concept for bimmer ownership was not to own a bimmer with more than 70k miles on it - I figured that once it hit that magic mark expensive things started needing replacement and depreciation really starts to take its toll. I still believe that if you are moving along in the world of bimmers in an upwardly mobile spiral. However, now I have gone back in time and bought a 1985 635 CSI Euro and it is lovely, in great shape exterior wise and interior wise - where it needed attention was in the "deferred maintenance" category.
This is universal - doesn't matter what year you buy - if maintenance has been deferred watch out. Always look for records - and in the case of newer 6 series apparently you should figure in the cost of an extended warranty (be careful - not all extended warranties are equal). Can't buy one over 100k- well this one has 90k miles - tain't far away - better get one quick. Again another issue - which extended warranty to buy - I'm sure there is a thread here about that! Now- back to my example - I bought this beautiful old 6 series - had lot done and needed lots more maintenance - bought it for 8k and have put about 7k in it in maintenance - did it all at once and got it over with - so where can you get a fully sorted 635CSI for that or have any more fun than that for relatively low dollars - not many places - not for a car that is really pretty and definitive of the marque - imho.
So is this car a good buy - when buying any hi mileage bimmer - know your "animal" - what goes wrong at 90k? How bout checking if the water pump has been replaced - that if it blows can cause you all kinds of headaches if you're stranded. Ask me how I know- well on second thought - don't ask. But there are forum threads here on what goes wrong with these cars at high mileage - read up on it - don't go into any older car or newer car with hi mileage lightly. The engines will surely go well over 100k miles. Mine has just over 100k miles - maintain it properly and it will go 300k miles - ok - so just on acount of high miles don't let a good one slip by - IF as one other said - IF it's been maintained. If the records are sketchy and the price not too low - pass and go on to the next one cause you can learn some mighty expensive lessons the hard way. Depends on how you're situated financially - in other words don't buy this cause it's a bimmer and it's just "cheap" enough for YOU to get in - thinking nothing will happen cause it's a bimmer - WRONG!
Just be careful - have it checked out - ever heard of a PPI? Pre purchase inspection - remember that and get one on this one if you're really serious and look at all records.
My 2 cents....
Tim
Well said Tim635...Don't be scared of high mileage cars. If they are/were maintained properly and you know what your buying and what you should look at for w/the high mileage, all s/b okay. Cars are made much better then they were before. Good luck!
I wouldn't worry about the 90K miles. If you maintain the car nicely and don't drive it too hard all the time you will be fine. I nave an 06 650 CPO it now has 87K miles and it has never given me any problems. Good luck!!!
As a dealer considering picking up a 2007 650i Convertible with 90K miles what would you all consider the "great deal" price that would make a higher mileage 650i attractive? I know everyone will say $10K but whats an honest figure? Thanks guys
I would say high 20's for an 07'. $27,000 or so.
Thanks for the response! We are not doing the deal unless we could be at $24999 for a retail price - just wanted to make sure our math wasn't too crazy.
I bought an '07 last Dec with low miles (35k) for $36k. They are still going for close to the same price.
Even with 90k miles I think it will go for $27-$30K. I watch them on eBay and on Cars.com etc.
They still get fair $$$. If you can get it for $25K for an '07 I'd jump on it.
Have a look at KBB.com. Even if it's stock with few options $27K is in range.
Good Luck.
Even with 90k miles I think it will go for $27-$30K. I watch them on eBay and on Cars.com etc.
They still get fair $$$. If you can get it for $25K for an '07 I'd jump on it.
Have a look at KBB.com. Even if it's stock with few options $27K is in range.
Good Luck.
We only do higher end car deals when they will be quick sales... so pricing it at 24999 would hopefully generate "buzz" and move it quickly.
Million dollar question: what am I looking at here and why is the lower half of it covered in oil?
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Million dollar question: what am I looking at here and why is the lower half of it covered in oil?
90k is 90k... Well maintained or not the older (or more driven) a car gets the more it costs and the need to be pampered....
I was also told by my car broker, once a luxury car goes past 40k mark on miles the resale value curve takes a lot steeper dive...
Just saying.....
I was also told by my car broker, once a luxury car goes past 40k mark on miles the resale value curve takes a lot steeper dive...
Just saying.....
When it comes to value that is something I do not worry about. I buy it because it's a car i love to drive and when it's over with I sell or trade it for another one. Car is not an asset unless your are talking about the collectables. A car is for driving and drive it anytime you get the chance. I know folks with luxury and exotics that are "Afraid" of putting too much mileage on their cars. What? That's when you know something is wrong with the picture. If i could afford a ferrari it will be driven every chance I can get. It will be the most driven Ferrari in history. 
Can't take it with my friends.
Can't take it with my friends.
I bought my 2005 645 vert in 2010 for 27k with 78,000 miles and a cpo. I too was a little nervous but the car was in immaculate condition and it had 22k or 8 months to go on the cpo plus it was love at first sight!! Here is a list of things I have had done so far: Th Front brakes (covered by cpo just before it expired) battery $89 ( installed at Sams Club vs $500 or so at the dealer and after 2 years no problems) Thermostat $325 (Indy), spark plugs $290 (Indy) front thrust arm joints $600 (Indy), Rear brake pads $225 (Indy). Except for the battery and brakes, the other items were replaced around 100k miles.
I am taking the car in next week to get the rear thrust arm joints replaced as well as the O2 sensor. Find a good Indy shop and you will save LOTS of money vs the Dealer. These items are normal wear and tear stuff that I was expecting to have to do. The engine runs strong and I love her just like the first time I drove her!! The only thing that drives me nuts is the damn convertible top gets stuck every now and then but thanks to the BOSEMAN10 PUSH, I haven't had to take it in to get fixed.
Hope this helps in your decision, I have no regrets!!.
I am taking the car in next week to get the rear thrust arm joints replaced as well as the O2 sensor. Find a good Indy shop and you will save LOTS of money vs the Dealer. These items are normal wear and tear stuff that I was expecting to have to do. The engine runs strong and I love her just like the first time I drove her!! The only thing that drives me nuts is the damn convertible top gets stuck every now and then but thanks to the BOSEMAN10 PUSH, I haven't had to take it in to get fixed.
Hope this helps in your decision, I have no regrets!!.
Of course being on this forum is a must when owning these cars!! I really appreciate all the knowledge everyone has about our cars!!!
You are looking at the vacuum pump! The seal could be bad, or the oil sensor right be low it. The temp sensor is the 12.00 fix, the vacuum pump maybe a little more.
We only do higher end car deals when they will be quick sales... so pricing it at 24999 would hopefully generate "buzz" and move it quickly.
Million dollar question: what am I looking at here and why is the lower half of it covered in oil?
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