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Resident Curmudgeon
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Oh, unless you are 100% sure the fuel pump and all other components are perfect, Id only replace the one you think is bad at a time
 

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Consider changing the glow plug module. Those seem to be failing for many people. 12218591724
And there are a couple of vacuum lines under there that you could easily change. They may be fine on the intake end but crusty if they run to the exhaust side.
 

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Q: is the module failing? or is it one of 6 GPs that fail and take down the module? I dunno, been wondering


10000% agree on replacing "anything that used to be soft and pliable"
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ard,

That document mentions particular manufacture dates requiring shims, mine doesn't fall into that timeline.

I've read and watched videos that say both coding is and isn't needed for a new injector. I'm not against it, just don't think I have the ability to with a foxwell 530.
 

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Q: is the module failing? or is it one of 6 GPs that fail and take down the module? I dunno, been wondering


10000% agree on replacing "anything that used to be soft and pliable"
Glow plug failures are not that common. But controllers are known to fail. When my controller went bad it threw a code saying I had a bad glow plug. I researched the code and multiple posts said to just change the controller which corrected my code.
 

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Glow plug failures are not that common. But controllers are known to fail. When my controller went bad it threw a code saying I had a bad glow plug. I researched the code and multiple posts said to just change the controller which corrected my code.
thx





OP- just wanted you to be attentive. I saw you had a 2010 so the shims wont affect you. Interestingly there was a member who blithely changed injectors and then was chasing rough running issues. Then found the shims had been ignored. My point is that sometimes details matter. Id make sure to code the injectors and clear adaptations.

Did you every confirm which injectors were bad, and what the cause was?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am definitely open to and appreciate any advice.
I had a code for injector 6. I found there was a crack in the plastic directly above it which I hadn't previously noticed and it was outside for a massive rain storm while at work last week. The foam sound barrier was water stained but not wet. There doesn't seem to be any corrosion around the injector but it did have a reading of zero ohms when tested.
New injector ordered, should get it monday to install and button it all back up. Hopefully clear the codes and fire it up.
I'll have to sort out a way to get it coded unless anyone can tell me if it's possible with my foxwell 530 which I'm pretty sure it isn't.
 

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Here is a link to one of the best diesel fuel injector diy guides I have seen. It is for the 335D, but process is extremely similar for the X5D. Main difference is engine bay is a bit different, and I think it is harder to get to fuel injector #6 (lucky you!). For the X5 to get injector 6 you will need to remove the engine partition pieces (sounds like yours need to be replaced anyway, though). Also the windshield cowling extends over the #6 fuel injector such that it may be more difficult to use a slide hammer method to get the injector out. Particularly if it has been rain soaked you may find it moderately difficult to get out. The slide hammer kit I had did not have room to work with the windshield cowling, but I was successful using the technique of a box wrench and hammer as demonstrated in the posting noted above.

The idea of using a 3/8 inch lag screw from Home Depot to retrieve a stuck copper washer is genius. I would make sure you have one before you get started. When I removed all the fuel injectors as part of a valve cover gasket replacement I had one injector that was partially seized in place from when the partitions had been cracked years earlier - of course that was the injector where the copper washer was stuck at the bottom of the injector tube. So you may find the same thing happens to you for number 6. Fortunately, though, the Home Depot lag screw removal technique worked perfectly.

Note where the forum posting above recommends getting a 17 mm fuel injector socket from ebay/amazon. I second this piece of advice. Using a fuel injector socket will allow you to put the proper torque on the fuel lines. From the postings I have read this can be a critical step. Too loose and you can have a leak that will not allow a high enough pressure for the injectors to work (and these modern injectors require super, super high pressures - much higher than in years past), or too tight and reducing fuel flow. The torque is 23 NM. You might get lucky trying to get that torque right with a box wrench, but maybe not.

I did not have to recode any of my injectors (since none were replaced), but you will need to - and the forum posting above has good instructions. It says you will need ISTA+. You can get a copy from ebay. I'm pretty sure Rheingold will also allow coding of the injector, but am not certain.

Hope that helps. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, any suggestions on a penetrant to try and free a seized injector. I have pulled and hammered for hours and it hasn't budged at all.
 

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...and cue that video...
 

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I was laughing through my frustration thinking of that and what materials I would need to built such a contraption and where I could find half a dozen portly men.
 

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So, any suggestions on a penetrant to try and free a seized injector. I have pulled and hammered for hours and it hasn't budged at all.
A little heat helps. Mechanics say that injectors are easier to get out of an engine that just pulled into the shop hot.
 

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lol. you know a video is viral when you can joke about it without needing the video itself!

:)

Liberal solvent, let it soak in overnight or more
 
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