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Discussion Starter · #21 ·

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Your replacing all of them?
Rein should be fine or go to a junkyard if you have time.
 

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Harbor Freight sells left hand drill bits.
As for checking your torque wrenches I bought this 10 years ago for around $30 IIRC.
It comes with a cert of calibration. All 3 of my torque wrenches are +/- 2 ft-lb.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-940962-Digital-Torque-Adapter/dp/B0085WMOOU/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=Torque+Wrench+Calibrator&qid=1631280664&sr=8-11&th=1
That is a neat tool. All my torque wrenches came with certificates, and I have sent them back to the manufacturer periodically for recert and calibration, but that would be less expensive...just send them back when they get out of calibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Your replacing all of them?
Rein should be fine or go to a junkyard if you have time.
Yeah. I asked my shop to fix my one bolt today. They couldn’t fit me in. Made an appointment for next week. They asked me if I wanted to do them all, I said yeah. I didn’t realize how much they cost. Then I felt like I could not double back. This is my G30 M550 shop. They have been good to me on all my M550 mods. It’s close to my work and convenient to fix while I wait. I’d have to leave the car where I bring the E39. I just want it fixed. Probably going to cost me a couple of hundred.

Yeah, I know….but I like to treat my shops right. It goes a long way.
 

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Yeah, I get the shop love. My local BMW guy has had my e46 for a month now for A/C diagnosis that I couldn’t fix. Maybe week 5 will bring some love, lol. Seriously, this guy has a yard full of e30, 39, 24, 46, etc….when I go see him he has a pile of M54 blown engines “cooling probs” and replacements galore. I know he has complete M30’s that I could swap into my e30. Dang I want a ‘89 335i!.
 

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  • As JimLev said: junk yard.
  • Or go to ebay and search for genuine BMW wheel lugs, used is fine, they are cheap on ebay.

OTOH, if you have money to feed the shop, that is fine too, the mechanics have to feed their families as well...
 

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2001 BMW E39 540i Automatic Sedan, 198 K milesmiles
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But we are talking about only one snapped lug, right ? So if your shop can extract it, you can replace it yourself, it costs only about $5 at Napa,
OTOH, as cn90 puts it....why not ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
But we are talking about only one snapped lug, right ? So if your shop can extract it, you can replace it yourself, it costs only about $5 at Napa,
OTOH, as cn90 puts it....why not ??
I know the owner pretty well at this shop in terms of his reasoning. We were communicating all over email. I am pretty certain his thinking is, the car is 18 years old, original lugs, there is no way he should have snapped a lug, they could all benefit from replacement.

They are an all BMW shop and they only use OEM parts. No bringing my own aftermarket or used lugs.

My threads are always entertaining and an adventure.
 

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I cant agree with not using a torque wrench for wheel lugs/bolts. Ive had a 1/2" drive click type torque wrench made by Central since 1992. I send it in every few years to be re calibrated. You should torque the lugs in 3 steps. I do 100 lb/ft on mine so, I do 35, 70, then 100. Ive never had an issue on any car/truck ever...
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 105K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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If one screw was abused badly enough to break, why were the others treated differently, or were they?
 

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If one broken lug was known to be from a single mistake, then only need to change that lug.
If the other 19 lugs were torqued by let's say tire shop with bad torque wrench, then I would replace all 20 with new.

Take the other 19 old lugs home and inspect them, if they look good ---> sell on ebay lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If one screw was abused badly enough to break, why were the others treated differently, or were they?
So this is the strange part. I had torqued 19 out of the 20 bolts successfully. They all “clicked”. This bolt just didn’t click. All other bolts were mostly already torqued enough by me and the wrench in the trunk. The didn’t require much of any torquing to click. This one just didn’t click. I stopped and went back to an already torqued bolt to make sure the tool was still set correctly. It clicked again on that bolt. So I though maybe I didn’t tighten this one enough and went at it.

Snap.
 

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You need bolts I have a bag of them in the garage PM me and let me know how many you want. As for the one snapped off you can take the wheel and rotor off in about ten minutes and it you can get at the remainder with a vice grip you are done in less than half an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
You need bolts I have a bag of them in the garage PM me and let me know how many you want. As for the one snapped off you can take the wheel and rotor off in about ten minutes and it you can get at the remainder with a vice grip you are done in less than half an hour.
Thanks Jay. I appreciate the offer. I had already committed to a new lug set. Probably over kill but they are all 19 years old. Thank for the tip on removal of the bits. Will be going in this Friday. Hopefully easy.
 

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Hi all, As a basic consumer, I'd leave this broken bolt alone, and leave the removal to professionals. If you must remove the broken stud, do you use "never seize" on your lug nuts? If so, you may be able to remove it yourself. You may need another tool to remove the stud, called an "easy out". This tool comes in a set, and is cone shaped with ridges going in reverse thread. You'll need to drill a hole down the center of the broken bolt, then insert the "easy out" until almost 50% deep, then turn. The ridges will bite the sides of the broken bolt, and break it free. Be careful, the easy out is made of case hardened steel. If you break off the easy out, you're dead. Before drilling the broken bolt, be sure to use a punch to direct the drill to the center of the bolt. Once the "easy out" is inserted, attempt to turn the tool, until it bites, then turn in pulses, rather than strong arm twists. You can always remove the "easy out" and drill the hole deeper, and try again.
 

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....
You may need another tool to remove the stud, called an "easy out".
....
Frankly, these "easy out" tools and gizmos work only on youtube videos....LOL..

For a weekend DIY'er, save the money, the frustration, not to mention the risk of damaging the wheel or block where the snapped bolt is lodged.
Forget it.
Or take the car to a professional mechanic to extract it, if that is absolutely required.
 

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If it were my car, I would get a hex head bolt, 3-4" long and I would place some quick set epoxy on the end of the bolt and I would carefully feed it through the lug bolt hole in the wheel and onto the broken bolt. I would wait several hours for that to set then I would just remove the broken lug bolt using the hex head bolt. If that works then great. If it doesn't work then it doesn't matter. You still have your backup plan. I would then replace just the broken lug bolt, paying attention more than normal when tightening.

If the bolt isn't cross threaded it should come out easily.
 

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Up until I owned my first E46, I had never owned a torque wrench. When I asked another BMW Club member if I really needed to use a torque wrench to set my oil filter, he told me "If you don't use the torque wrench, the part will either break off or fall off. If the BMW was a drug, it would have a narrow therapeutic range." I now own 2 torque wrenches, and my local Costco Tire Center will check my calibration when I bring them in.
 

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I usually replace my lug bolts every 5 years, whether they need it or not.

Cant be too careful....
 
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