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Last night, I bought a '95 750iL off Craigslist for $1900. Yeah, a V12 for a first car. Two-owner and 102k miles, which I think is alright. There are a few problems that I'm hoping you Bimmer enthusiasts can help me out with.

First of all, a CEL popped on on the drive home. I'm not sure if this was caused by the new oil it needs (by the way, the oil change light also went on); could it be caused by that? Also, what kind of oil do you guys put in your 750iLs?

Other problems include a leaky hose (not sure which one, sorry), the steering wheel is a bit hard to turn (is the power steering pump out, or do I just need fluid?), the windshield has a pretty big crack (recommendations on replacements?), the rear sunshade doesn't work, the rubber seals outside the door frames are in pieces, and the cupholders are kinda... disassembled. Also, the button that tunes the radio gets stuck, so the radio's not very usable.

On the plus side, all the lights on the dash work, the engine runs fine (throttle response is a bit delayed, though), the car is in decent cosmetic condition (it still has those clear protection stickers on it, though they're cracked), and it has nice wheels.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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Last night, I bought a '95 750iL off Craigslist for $1900. Yeah, a V12 for a first car. Two-owner and 102k miles, which I think is alright. There are a few problems that I'm hoping you Bimmer enthusiasts can help me out with.

First of all, a CEL popped on on the drive home. I'm not sure if this was caused by the new oil it needs (by the way, the oil change light also went on); could it be caused by that? Also, what kind of oil do you guys put in your 750iLs?

Other problems include a leaky hose (not sure which one, sorry), the steering wheel is a bit hard to turn (is the power steering pump out, or do I just need fluid?), the windshield has a pretty big crack (recommendations on replacements?), the rear sunshade doesn't work, the rubber seals outside the door frames are in pieces, and the cupholders are kinda... disassembled. Also, the button that tunes the radio gets stuck, so the radio's not very usable.

On the plus side, all the lights on the dash work, the engine runs fine (throttle response is a bit delayed, though), the car is in decent cosmetic condition (it still has those clear protection stickers on it, though they're cracked), and it has nice wheels.

Thanks in advance for any help!
If you have the funds to keep up with one of these, great. If I were you, I would make it look nice, clean the inside and out and start with a 740iL, preferably 97-98 pre-vanos.

No, check engine light won't come on because of oil change. It has its own system for maintenance and isn't connected into the vehicle's OBD system. Find used windshield, if not, shop around. At dealers we'd get new glass for $150-300 for all sorts of German cars. Rear shade is most likely jammed or misaligned. All the rest, welcome to the E38 world.
 

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What you will need - $, $$, $$$. Get a Peake reader for the 20 pin diagnostic port. This is a 95, so there might not be an OBD II port. This is a complicated expensive car. E38.org, meeknet.co.uk, and realoem.com are your best friends. We need the codes from the reader to help you - the last guy reset the codes not too long before you showed up. The Peake reader will also reset the oil service interval.
 

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It probably was not a good idea to buy one of the most complicated cars on the planet as a first time experience, but that's water under the bridge. This will teach you about patience, and hard work, or you will sell it soon......
 

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It probably was not a good idea to buy one of the most complicated cars on the planet as a first time experience, but that's water under the bridge. This will teach you about patience, and hard work, or you will sell it soon......
I second Noodles. Expect to throw money into this car. Instead of a $300-$500 car payment, tuck that money away for repairs.

If you have some mechanical expertise and want to do it all yourself, better get another daily driver. Otherwise, expect to pay a local independent shop oodles of cash to do it for you.

I think one of the unknown costs of the do it yourself method is tools. These euro cars dont play nice with the standard system. A full metric mechanics set, plenty of ramps, jacks and jack stands, pulley wrench, bigger wrench sizes, (20-30mm) wrenches, etc.

Last is parts. These are high quality, well engineered vehicles. They demand quality work and parts. Thus, the parts can sometimes be hard to find and expensive. Used parts are always a gamble and equally as hard to find.

Not trying to rain on your parade, just giving you the reality of owning and restoring an e38. If you have the patients, money and are willing to learn, its a labor of love!
 
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