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Nick Burns, the Comp Guy
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7,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought the car in because my clutch pedal was hard to push down -- THAT'S IT. The car pulled fine, it didn't slip, nothing like that, and now this guy is telling me I need a new clutch, and it will be $1100 installed. I told him that I want to take a look at the clutch, but to be quite honest I have no idea what the hell to look for, nor do I have $1100 to give him right now out of pocket.

Somebody needs to give me some information on this, because I *KNOW* I didn't abuse the clutch, and since the car wasn't slipping and pulling just fine before I gave it to the dealership, I find it very hard to believe.

Help!
 

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Nick Burns, the Comp Guy
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7,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I should mention, that I only have 25000 miles on the car... I even called my mechanic and he just laughed and said "Tell them to hit the road" and that he would take a look at it... I am getting really really pissed off.... :mad:
 

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OMGWTFBBQ
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11,262 Posts
I haven't checked the rx8club thread since last night...did they say what was wrong with it? If they have it out and you can take a look at it now, get your mechanic friend to come look at it with you.

Wasn't clutch effort an issue for you from the start? Didn't you buy the Probe (and replace that with the Mazda 3) because you wanted to keep your legs the same size? Wasn't that a while ago?

Let it be a lesson. When a car is under warranty and anything doesn't seem to be right, bring it in as soon as you can...especially when it's something that could conceivably be related to a wear item. Even if they can't find anything wrong at the time, having a history of a potential problem can only help if it fails later.
 

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Nick Burns, the Comp Guy
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7,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
·clyde· said:
I haven't checked the rx8club thread since last night...did they say what was wrong with it? If they have it out and you can take a look at it now, get your mechanic friend to come look at it with you.

Wasn't clutch effort an issue for you from the start? Didn't you buy the Probe (and replace that with the Mazda 3) because you wanted to keep your legs the same size? Wasn't that a while ago?

Let it be a lesson. When a car is under warranty and anything doesn't seem to be right, bring it in as soon as you can...especially when it's something that could conceivably be related to a wear item. Even if they can't find anything wrong at the time, having a history of a potential problem can only help if it fails later.
The probe is gone for a while now, I have a Mazda3 that I use as a daily driver. The clutch effort wasn't realized until I drove my friend's RX-8 and saw how light it was. It was a gradual progression so you don't notice it, and the car didn't slip or anything, so I didn't think much of it.

The question here is, why would a clutch that is not abused, wasn't slipping or losing power, need replacement at 25k miles? I bought it in for just the clutch pedal being a bit tough to push in, and they tell me I need a new clutch entirely.

If the power was fine and there's no slippage, why should I have to replace the clutch? I just don't get it! And that's why I want to be well armed with information before I go see the dealer -- I have a funny feeling they are trying to put one over on me and I don't want to be caught with my pants down nor taken for a ride.
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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12,903 Posts
A stiff clutch that's traced back to the clutch itself probably means the pressure plate is weakened/broken. That's what happened to my M6. The clutch was REALLY stiff when I bought it But a clutch is one of those things where unless you're doing the work yourself, you might as well refresh all the parts (friction disk, throwout bearing) since you're already paying to have it apart. I will say that $1100 seems a bit high. Should be closer to $600, IMO.
 

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Nick Burns, the Comp Guy
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7,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Kaz said:
A stiff clutch that's traced back to the clutch itself probably means the pressure plate is weakened/broken. That's what happened to my M6. The clutch was REALLY stiff when I bought it But a clutch is one of those things where unless you're doing the work yourself, you might as well refresh all the parts (friction disk, throwout bearing) since you're already paying to have it apart. I will say that $1100 seems a bit high. Should be closer to $600, IMO.
Would the pressure plate be covered under warranty?
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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Hercules said:
Would the pressure plate be covered under warranty?
I would think so. How bad is Mazda with warranty claims? Even if you thoroughly abused the clutch and burned through the friction disk, I wouldn't think that would affect the pressure plate this way.
 

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Nick Burns, the Comp Guy
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7,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kaz said:
I would think so. How bad is Mazda with warranty claims? Even if you thoroughly abused the clutch and burned through the friction disk, I wouldn't think that would affect the pressure plate this way.
Well I just talked with their technician at the dealership, and he said the reason the clutch is stiff is because the pressure plate is gone and that's not under warranty. I am irritated as hell, and I'm not sure what my options are. They won't put the car back together without charging me at least $300, so I'm in a tough spot.

Any help is appreciated.
 

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Registered User
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Hercules said:
Well I just talked with their technician at the dealership, and he said the reason the clutch is stiff is because the pressure plate is gone and that's not under warranty. I am irritated as hell, and I'm not sure what my options are. They won't put the car back together without charging me at least $300, so I'm in a tough spot.

Any help is appreciated.
Have you spoken with the service manager?

Have you spoken with Mazda?

What they're saying, if I understand it correctly, is that your clutch itself works fine and was not abused, but that the pressure plate has failed. This should be a warranted item, and you should kick and yell and scream until they cover it for you.
 

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Nick Burns, the Comp Guy
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh, they say the clutch disc is bad too, worn down to the rivets. I can go take a look, but they are probably right. I haven't been munching on the clutch like that, but if I have to replace it I definately won't get an OEM part, but rather a nice aftermarket part so there's more life and 'zoom zoom' out of the clutch. The only question now is.... why me!!$%@#$: :mad:
 

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We want the Lion!
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7,771 Posts
I agree; escalate this up the food chain ASAP. Appeal to the Service Manager and if that doesnt get you anywhere, ask to speak to the Mazda "zone manager/representative". Be calm and direct and tell them what you want and why - you think it is unreasonable for a pressure plate to fail so soon and you would like them to honor this as a warranty claim. Some dealerships will do this as an act of goodwill.

Whatever you do, don't yell and scream like an angry child, you'll only look like an idiot.
 

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Nick Burns, the Comp Guy
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7,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Scott ZHP said:
I agree; escalate this up the food chain ASAP. Appeal to the Service Manager and if that doesnt get you anywhere, ask to speak to the Mazda "zone manager/representative". Be calm and direct and tell them what you want and why - you think it is unreasonable for a pressure plate to fail so soon and you would like them to honor this as a warranty claim. Some dealerships will do this as an act of goodwill.

Whatever you do, don't yell and scream like an angry child, you'll only look like an idiot.
Hah, not my dealership. Either way though, it looks as if I am going to have to get a new clutch and pressure plate :(

I am researching now to find what is good, but I think I will probably just go with the Racing Beat clutch/pressure plate because the price is even better than the OEM stuff, and I'd imagine it works quite a bit better. It's $150 for the clutch disc, $199 for the pressure plate, and then I just need to buy a $30 throwout bearing. Maybe $400, which is better than the $550 Mazda wants to charge me.
 

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Registered User
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Either way, I suggest that you haev the car towed to your mechanic. No sense paying them an absurd fee to fix the car if you can avoid it. Besides, you'll probably save money since it's already disassembled. :p
 
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Kaz said:
I would think so. How bad is Mazda with warranty claims? Even if you thoroughly abused the clutch and burned through the friction disk, I wouldn't think that would affect the pressure plate this way.
Pretty bad, in my experience. One of the CV joints on my 94 MX-6 LS failed while it was under warranty and they wanted to charge me $600 to replace it along with the axle. They said the vehicle wasn't maintained properly and to show them evidence otherwise in the form of receipts and then they will honor it. I only had receipts for oil changes and wear items, since the car hadn't given problems til then. I got both axles replaced at my local mechanic for $400 since they didn't feel like honoring the claim and I didn't feel like it was worth the fight anymore. I decided to vote with my wallet, so I took my business over to my local BMW dealership about 1 year later.
 

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Oh, Herc, you might try pointing out that if the pressure plate is shot, the clutch was probably slipping all the time, and that you can't be be blamed for the wear.
 

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Nick Burns, the Comp Guy
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7,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nick325xiT 5spd said:
Oh, Herc, you might try pointing out that if the pressure plate is shot, the clutch was probably slipping all the time, and that you can't be be blamed for the wear.
The car never slipped on me though... it's strange. The tech I spoke to said that the clutch disc is worn down to nearly the rivets, and that he'd be happy to show me -- I don't doubt that. I have read on the RX-8 forums however, that a faulty pressure plate caused unnecessary wear on the clutch. I just don't know how I can prove that, and with Mazda's shoddy warranty service, I don't think they care anyway :(

Gahhhh... I'm annoyed.
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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e46Christian said:
Pretty bad, in my experience. One of the CV joints on my 94 MX-6 LS failed while it was under warranty and they wanted to charge me $600 to replace it along with the axle. They said the vehicle wasn't maintained properly and to show them evidence otherwise in the form of receipts and then they will honor it. I only had receipts for oil changes and wear items, since the car hadn't given problems til then. I got both axles replaced at my local mechanic for $400 since they didn't feel like honoring the claim and I didn't feel like it was worth the fight anymore. I decided to vote with my wallet, so I took my business over to my local BMW dealership about 1 year later.
CV joints aren't 'maintainable' per se. What a crock.
 

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We want the Lion!
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At 25k miles, I would insist that the Service Manager appeal your case to the regional higher ups. Make sure you get a name and a phone number. Tell them you're not paying one red cent until you speak with a regional technicial.

If you have made the decision to go with aftermarket parts, you pretty much waive your right to have it covered under warranty. I would not give up so easily.

Is this your first manual car? Did you buy it new or secondhand?
 

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•••••••
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16,117 Posts
Kaz said:
CV joints aren't 'maintainable' per se. What a crock.
I had a similar situation with my MX-6. They claimed I should have noticed the rubber CV-joint boot was cracked, and brought it in before dirt got in there to destroy the joint. :rolleyes:

It was just after warranty expired that I had the problem, though, so I didn't really expect them to do it under warranty to begin with.
 
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