Read schematics. Best way to ID fuses and find missing stuff.

Your issues:

Gauge cluster does not lights

"It" does make a clicking sound, from what I assume is the speaker, but not 100% sure.

The trunk button in the rear does not open the trunk. Lights up, but pressing button does nothing. I have to use the key or button on the center console. It also opens when I unlock the car, not by pressing the trunk button, all on its own.

You need to dig around and look for any water damage. In the rear, where the spare/battery sits

Also, the FRM may be involved with this. Tell us what "it" is, and see if you can make sure it IS the speaker....

I know 'just a bad fuse' is a desireable solution, but it doesnt feel like this is the case...

If you do some searching here, look for "FRM" and see if any symptoms match. BTW the FRM is a complex, programmable controller that can fail in a myriad of ways. Unlike many parts on cars, the FRM has a lot of differnt symptoms.

 

For the E70 X5 (6 or 8 cylinder):

• Fuse F121: Rear distribution box - Electrically Powered Rear Lift Gate module (A204a) and paired with Fuse F99
• Fuse F6: Front Junction Box - CD Player
• Fuse F1: Front Junction Box - Powered Steering Column Adjust (M137) and HVAC Control Panel (A11a) with electrical steering column adjust

Typically fuses that aren't installed means the option isn't installed in the vehicle.

So your rear lift gate must be hydraulic (not electrical - a release button does not make it electrical - does your rear gate close by itself? If no, then it's hydraulic only), and you don't have a CD Changer installed, and your steering column is mechanically adjustable, not electrically adjustable.....

So placing a fuse in a slot that doesn't have the installed option, will only be a fuse holder...won't hurt, but just wasting a fuse.

======== so now to your issues =============

Fuse F131 is power to your instrument cluster in the rear fuse panel up to 9/2009 builds
Fuse F134 is power to your instrument cluster in the rear fuse panel after 9/2009 builds
.....but if this fuse is out, then your instrument cluster (A2a) would not work at all, gauges and all.

The KOMBI illumination is not controlled directly by the Footwell Module (A4011), but indirectly via the K-CAN Bus. If the Footwell Module has an issue, it may also cause non-illumination of other buttons in your cabin.

KOMBI is coded to illuminate white in "daytime" and red when the light switch is moved to parking lights or headlights or if triggered by the light sensor triggers in auto. There could be a coding issue in KOMBI, so if you can code, verify the settings, or using ESYS, ensure that the CAFD is not red/blue. A simple unplugging the fuse F131 or F134, depending on build year of your E70, then plugging the fuse back in, may reset your instrument cluster, else there is a hard failure.

The Footwell module has two pins that drive the backlighting, Pin 21 and 48 of all of your switches, and so unless there is a broken wire, half of your lighting will be out...

A4011 Connector X14261, Pin 48 drives the following switch backlights:

• A14286 Function Control Center, Roof
• A72 Steering Column Switch Center
• S41a Power window switch, rear driver's side
• S243 Parking Brake Pushbutton
• S69 Seat heating Switch, rear right
• S68 Seat heating Switch, rear left
• S42a Power window switch, rear passenger's side

A4011 Connector X14259, Pin 21 drives the following switch backlights:

• S18a Hazard warning switch
• E28 Front cigar lighter
• S4127 Power window switch, front passenger's side
• S126 Switch block, driver's side
• N38a CCC/M-ASK (CHAMP)
• N38b CIC
• N22 CD Changer
• N39 DVD Changer
• E172 Oddments compartment lighting driver's door
• E174 Oddments compartment lighting passenger's door
• E138 Oddments compartment lighting left rear
• E139 Oddments compartment lighting right rear
• E140 Door handle plate lighting, driver's door
• E141 Door handle plate lighting, passenger's door
• E142 Door handle plate lighting, left rear
• E143 Door handle plate lighting, right rear

Before we help with the unlock/lock/tailgate issue, please confirm what happens when you press the following buttons:

1. Arrow button, momentary press: What happens?
2. Arrow button, long press: What happens?
3. Roundel, momentary press: What happens?
4. Roundel, long press: What happens?
5. Trunk, momentary press: What happens?
6. Trunk, long press: What happens?

Please do not take this the wrong way, but some get the key orientation confused...they think they are pressing the unlock, but really pressing the trunk.....because the key is kind of a symmetrical rectangle....kind of....easy to hold the wrong way for sure.

If you have an issue with your wireless key, you have an issue with the CAS module, and there is nothing cheap with your key fob or the car access system (CAS)....hope it user error...it won't cost a dime to fix....

Your exterior trunk release button on the back hatch (I assume it's the one you are referring to) has a micro switch that is a failure point on your vehicle, it's the type used on microwave oven doors to determine it's closed for the magnatron to work...these switches are like $2, and if you are mechanically inclined, you can take your handle out and look to see if the little metal arm needs readjusted relative to the rubberized handle mechanical pull.....or you can buy a whole new handle which has been completely redesigned since the original installed version....

As far as the noise, please provide more info:

• All speakers
• A particular speaker (please provide location)
• Noise is clicking all the time you are driving around or only at a certain time or phase of vehicle use

.....more info is needed

Cheers

 

What do all those icons on the cheat sheet mean? Some are obvious, but others I can't figure out at all. Stared at them for minutes, can't seem to figure it out.

The icons used on the fuse index/sheet...are the same icons used in the owners manual...and on the switches and buttons.

For the icons you can’t figure out...take a look around the interior and look at the icons used on the switches & buttons...and it may help figure the obscure ones out. For example, the fuse for the sunroof switch can be elusive if one hasn’t noticed the arrows, dashes, and slash on it...but if you look at the switch it becomes clear as to what icon to look for on the fuse sheet.

 

Thank you for taking time for such detailed response, I really appreciate it.

I realized I left out a lot of details, here is more information.

2009 X5D build date 2008-11-04, bought at auction as a run and drive. I am suspecting it might have been sabotaged, or just a negligent previous owner. Other than the issues described here, for now, everything seems to work as it should. The battery was completely dead when I got the car and resetting codes with Carly cleared almost all of them without coming back. I do still have a few I believe are related to the cluster not working. The mention LCD Luminance and New of the intrument cluster is missing: LCD luminance PT-CAN. below is the list of current codes from Carly.

Engine: 004993, 0049A3, 004C82, 004AB8, 00BF8, 004D03, 004NAC
Gear Lever: 00E098, 00E099
Airbag: 00940D
Tire pressure control: 00D13E

About the Gauge cluster issue - I have reset the fuse 131, and even swapped with new one, cluster looks completely dead. I disassembled the cluster to see if there was anything obvious, but the only thing it does is a slow click from the round (looks like speaker) plastic clear encasing. Everything else looks in decent shape. I was able to find a video of someone having a similar issue, however he did not have the clicking sound, and his fix was to send it for rebuild. He even had greyed out options on the iDrive just like I have. I am assuming it is because the cluster is not present. All other lights work in the car. Windows, locks, panoramic roof, ODB port with Carly, everything seems in working conditions. That being said, I believe you might be right, a hard failure on the cluster is likely the problem. Building a laptop as we speak to read out modules with INPA or ista to look for more clues. I still need to do this so I can get a proper reading of the mileage for when/if I send out the cluster for fix. What I don't want to happen is get the cluster fixed, only to plug it in and burn out the fixed cluster again. I will read the posts above carefully to make sure I follow any wires properly and hopefully rule out a short etc... I can see some of it to fail, but the whole entire cluster completely dead, seems odd, however, it does click, so don't know what to make of that. TBC

About the rear hatch - Yes, there was water in the battery and surrounding area. It might be that the rea hatch module has a short. However, while looking through fuses, I pulled one of the fuses and the back hatch started to close on me and opened back up, while my head was in the car lol. I guess that might have caused a reset because I have not been able to recreate the weird "Open on its own" issue. Before I would walk in to the garage and find the trunk open when I know it was closed. When pressing the forward button on the key, it would slightly open and close, with no interaction on the trunk button either on the remote or center console. I when I mean open and close, I mean release lock and go up about 4 inches and back down about 2. Eventually, the whole hatch would open all the way if I did it enough. It is almost as if waking the CAS was sending an open to the rear hatch. I will monitor closely, but this is not happening anymore. I do believe there is still an issue with the actual open switch on the hatch itself because that does not work. Also, pressing the red button to close does not work either. Maybe related, maybe not, but I will take it apart and take the suggestions above. If not, buy a new one and replace it with the updated version. It still releases with the keys and the button on the center console, but only to release the lock, not to open all the way up like it is should be doing since it is definitely electric.

So back to the original issue. I have put in a few fuses in spots that look empty with options I know are not on the vehicle and when testing with a fuse tester, they light up. This is confusing me because if the option is not installed, how are the fuses working lighting up the fuse tester light. I do know BMW pre wires stuff, so that might be why, but just wanted to know if that would cause any harm. Fuses are really cheap, I don't mind wasting a few if it will same me hundreds.

Answers:

1. Arrow button, momentary press: What happens? Unlocks driver door
2. Arrow button, long press: What happens? Windows go down
3. Roundel, momentary press: What happens? Locks
4. Roundel, long press: What happens? turns on interior lights
5. Trunk, momentary press: What happens? Nothing
6. Trunk, long press: What happens? 3 second hold releases the lock on the hatch. Longer triggers panic alarm.

Let me know if I missed anything.

 

If anyone bumps into this post looking for more info about the fuse and the functions, I found this link that has been helpful.

Fuse box diagram BMW X5 E70 (2006 - 2013)

Locate fuse and relay. Fuse box diagram. Identifying and legend fuse box BMW X5 E70 (2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013).

fusesdiagram.com

 

OP, do you have schematics?????

 

I reread your original post....the cluster is completely dead....so you should pull the cluster and ensure it's actually plugged in. You can't trust what has happened to a car at an auction....I've seen parts exchanged (not support to happen), people taking parts, knobs, etc..before it hits the block....or even after the sale.

So...it could be as simple as your cluster is unplugged. Check that first.

 

M_Bimmer, yes I took it out and complete appart. That is when I heard the clicking sound behind the cluster. I also observed the overall health of the cluster looks clean and nothing broken or deteriorating capacitors. At this point either the cluster is completely bad, or there is another short somewhere? However, since OBD shares the same fuse, and that is working, I assume that would be bad as well if there was a short affecting the same funtions.

 

If this were me, I'd measure for voltage on the connector to the cluster...if no voltage, then there is a break in your wire somewhere...don't want you to buy a new cluster for the wrong reason....

When I can get to my computer, I can provide a harness connector and pin number to make the measurement.....or maybe someone else can provide sooner...

 

This is exactly what I'm thinking, would like to be sure before replacing . If you can provide anything usefel that works be helpful.

I took another look at the board and found 2 things that stood out. I hate to admit it, but I think I'm looking at a bad board. Anyone agree?

 

Looks look deceiving, and it's hard to see if the trace is broken but one at least looks compromised...but a continuity check would make quick work to validate....honestly the large pads at the 1 O'Clock on your first photo look unusual and are not IPC-610 compliant...

Hard to tell what the white stuff is on the 2nd photo...but you circled components that look like 3.2k concave resistor arrays..you could use an Ohm meter to very their values...

 

Today I sent it out to repair. They would let know if it can be repaired, or if none is needed. Hopefully it is that simple. I will keep this thread updated as soon as I get more information.

 

It's too late, but...

The portion of your 1st photo that I grabbed below, doesn't look right....And those are "relatively" large pads that bridge two "relatively" large copper pours, which means if a component is supposed to bridge this, it is part of the primary power circuitry.

The two pads have "cold" solder flows on them, where the solder hadn't reached the proper flow temp....typical of cheap radio shack soldering irons and someone who doesn't know how to solder....Even if a component isn't missing, this is NOT the work found on BMW electronics.

I would have been happy to open mine up to compare...

 

Ah hah. I see your point. Not sure what was going on with this cluster in the past, but something tells me someone before me tried to just replace with a (bladly) refurbished cluster thinking it would just work.

I am still waiting for a response from the company that I sent the cluster out to.

On another note, the self opening tailgate issue came back. If key is close by, I have noticed every few minutes there is a relay that makes clicking sounds under the car that also opens the tailgate. I used a mechanic stethoscope and I beleive it is coming from the electric brake module, which is currently not working. Pulling fuses did not make a difference. Doesn't make much sense tonme, but will investigate that further once the instrument cluster issue is resolved.

I will update thread with more info in case it helps someone else in the future.

 

Going to have to troubleshoot further since apparently the cluster is not the issue.

Looking over wiring diagrams and studying up on the codes etc...

 

Update: replaced the cluster with a used one, fixed the issues of the instrument cluster and the random opening of the trunk lid for no reason. If anyone finds their way to this thread by searching dead cluster with a ticking sound, likely the cluster needs to be replaced entirely. Also, it might cause other weird issues with locking/unlocking the vehicle.

Now on to a bunch of other errors, but thanks to anyone that put effort in helping me with this.