BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

[SOLVED] Serious Electrical Issue !!!! Help - ABS, BRAKE, DSC, AIR BAG Lights

14984 37
DSC, Brake, Air Bag, ABS Light ON

Ok these lights came on after installing after market m5 auto fold mirrors. I went with the switch mod route.

So when I was trying to route some wires through the door panel under neath the glove box going out to the door panel passing that wire connector with a coat hanger it sort of touched something inside and made a spark.

I can't recall if the connector was connected at the time of the spark but when I went back to examine everything around that area I seen a white burnt spot on the pin connector

Not only I got these lights on the dash but now my passenger head light is out all of the sudden..and was working fine before

Also when I start the car and press on the brake my interior lights dim for a quick sec and goes back to normal.

And no I don't have any current DTC's

Checked glove box fuses pulled almost all of them and put them back still no luck.

Mirrors work fine tho.
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Bump
DSC, Brake, Air Bag, ABS Light ON

Here are some pics I took of what I was talking about in OP

Technology
Technology Electronics Electronic device
Vehicle Technology
Electronics Technology Electronic device Computer hardware Cable


Wire Trunk Electrical wiring Cable Technology
Wire Electrical wiring Cable management Cable Electronics

I tried to connect which seems to be pin 1 or 2 (grey wire with red stripe) and bypass the connector and connect to the other side of the door panel wire but no luck there either

Went out today to see if everything went back to normal but no luck

Now my doors won't lock / unlock unless my interior lights are on

My head lights and left fog light blinks and flickers when I turn on my turn signals

Only driver side and back seat windows work but passanger side and back seat doesn't work

Car drives fine as before but I can't drive at night like this and my head lights don't function as well as my turn signals please help...

Did I blow my abs? Or did I blow my light Module ?
driver power seats aren't working anymore but passenger seats work... Jesus what happened ?

At first I thought it could be my LMC but that has nothing to do with windows/locking/power seats does it ?
which particular one should I check for ? (I only visually checked the gloe box and trunk fuses, not with a multi meter though) none were visually blown.

Things that work and doesn't work:
-Passenger power seating works / Drivers doesn't
-Driver side mirror adjustment works / passenger doesn't
-When unlocking / locking doors with key fob, passenger door doesn't do anything
-Center lock button inside car works sometimes / passenger door doesn't work either
-Tail lights work / tail passenger side (blinker) has problems
-passenger head light doesn't work, but AE's work and high beams work, driver side head light works as well
-Fog lights work except when using turn signal
-If using turn signal weird lighting happens inside car and outside (Blinks, flickers, Dims, Etc)
-Driver and rear driver side windows work, but struggles. Passenger and rear passenger side windows doesn't work (haven't tried the rear window switches yet)
-Interior lights work & door foot well lights work (puddle lights) + all doors
-Cluster lights and indicators work

Not sure if these have anything to do with anything but this is whats installed...

Lighting mods currently installed:
Remote AE's - Method used:
Bridged passenger AE's to driver AE's then wire them both to driver side door light (puddle light) I also used an diode.

Forgot to mention:
as I were outside trying to diagnose things, I unplugged the negative terminal on he battery for a sec and plugged it back and battery voltage went from v12 to v7-8 and had to get a jump. Not sure how or why that happened but after jump, car started up fine, but problems still were there. Alternator is fine and it charges and its actually brand new. As of right now, the terminals are unplugged from the battery, letting it sit over night, in the morning or in a few hours im going to go out and check everything.
fuse check
DSC, Brake, Air Bag, ABS Light ON

OK, pulled out every single fuse in glove box and tested them with multi meter and I found 2 fuses that were blown, not sure what slot they were in but both were green

replaced those 2 fuses and put everything back together, now my passenger window and switch works and as well passenger door locks.

BUT, now when locking the remaining of the 3 doors doesn't lock unless I turn on the interior lights as well, driver window and rear window behind driver only works when interior lights are on, rear passenger window doesn't even work or the switch. But it seems as tho if the interior lights are on, everything seems to function but not all the way. Im thinking he diodes i have connected to my AE's for the remote AE's mod blew, i have a total of two connected, ill go back and cut that connection completely off and see if anything changes..

I also took off my General Module 3 and inspected the electrical board for any burnt or melted spots but everything on there seems fine here's a pic.

Electronics Technology Computer hardware Electronic device Electronic component
Computer hardware Electronics Motherboard Electronic engineering Electronic component

Computer hardware Electronics Electronic component Electronic engineering Technology
did some more testing...

completely removed remote AE's remote mod connection so it wouldn't interfere....

came to a conclusion/analysis, since my passenger headlight never came back on since this incident happened, I bridged the driver headlight power wire, to my passenger headlight power wire, and If i do this everything in the car works, from windows, power locks, power seats, side mirrors all work, but the headlight have to be 'bridged' and 'turned ON' inside the car, if its off, then nothing in the car but the passenger side things will work.... funny how it was vise versa before i pulled the blown fuses... its all weird, so could it be my LCM ? thats weird because the wire shown in this thread that made a spark doesn't even connect to the LCM or does it ?.

please help.....

my doors wont even remote lock because the lights have to be turned off when leaving the car....
Ok for the air bag light, did you disconnect the air bag in the door while putting the mirrors in?
nope, only connector i disconnected was the one in the loom on he door, I may have disconnected all the connectors on the ABS module (where the passenger mirrors connect)
Ok for the air bag light, did you disconnect the air bag in the door while putting the mirrors in?
Idk..

to be honest i dont have Bmw fuse slot location memorized like some of these freaks

but I dont have a few very nice test lights... thats what i was getting at..

start probing... Looking for voltage and earth where do...

its obvious you put voltage to somewhere it should have not been at (the spark you saw)
which particular one should I check for ? (I only visually checked the gloe box and trunk fuses, not with a multi meter though) none were visually blown.

Things that work and doesn't work:
-Passenger power seating works / Drivers doesn't
-Driver side mirror adjustment works / passenger doesn't
-When unlocking / locking doors with key fob, passenger door doesn't do anything
-Center lock button inside car works sometimes / passenger door doesn't work either
-Tail lights work / tail passenger side (blinker) has problems
-passenger head light doesn't work, but AE's work and high beams work, driver side head light works as well
-Fog lights work except when using turn signal
-If using turn signal weird lighting happens inside car and outside (Blinks, flickers, Dims, Etc)
-Driver and rear driver side windows work, but struggles. Passenger and rear passenger side windows doesn't work (haven't tried the rear window switches yet)
-Interior lights work & door foot well lights work (puddle lights) + all doors
-Cluster lights and indicators work

Not sure if these have anything to do with anything but this is whats installed...

Lighting mods currently installed:
Remote AE's - Method used:
Bridged passenger AE's to driver AE's then wire them both to driver side door light (puddle light) I also used an diode.

Forgot to mention:
as I were outside trying to diagnose things, I unplugged the negative terminal on he battery for a sec and plugged it back and battery voltage went from v12 to v7-8 and had to get a jump. Not sure how or why that happened but after jump, car started up fine, but problems still were there. Alternator is fine and it charges and its actually brand new. As of right now, the terminals are unplugged from the battery, letting it sit over night, in the morning or in a few hours im going to go out and check everything.
In this video this shows the passenger side headlight (low beams) voltages readings spiking like crazy, but when I test the 'temp bridged wire' coming from driver side headlight (low beams) connected to the HIDs, it reads normal v10 - v11.
http://vid.me/gmSW

In this video this shows the passenger side headlight connected to my HID (low beams) 'normal connection' before things started to go kaput, weird spike voltage readings.....
http://vid.me/8j6s

In this video this shows the driver side headlight connected to HID (low beams) nothing was changed or tampered with, but voltages are normal as before.... v10 - v11
http://vid.me/dIJ7

As of now, I have the bridged wire going from driver side to passenger side - this makes both head lights work, inside electrical work etc as before, as long as the headlights are turned ON if OFF, nothing will work.
Serious Electrical Issue !!!! Help

Wire Cable Electrical wiring Technology Electronic device
Electrical wiring Wire Cable management Technology Trunk


Pulled out the LCM and tested driver side power headlight wire (yellow w/ green stripe) and passenger side power headlight wire (yellow w/ blue stripe)

As you can see driver side is displaying same normal voltage as it was in the engine bay. Same with passenger side which doesn't show a pic of but it gave crazy spike voltage readings as in the videos posted.

Driver side headlight power wire goes to the black connector and the passenger side headlight power wire goes to the white connector

What I don't understand is in our cars even if we stop sending power to one of our headlights "power wire" that wouldn't make everything else in the car to stop working would it?

Seems tho I'm not getting power to my passenger side headlight power wire, because if I bridge and send power to it everything in the car works except for the solid yellow ABS, brake lights, air bag etc

So my conclusion is I'm not getting power to the yellow w/ blue stripe wire and why?

1. Is it that the white connector on the LCM is bad?

2. If so is there a soldering fix for this?

3. Did a chip get fried so that only the passenger side headlight power wire stops receiving power? If so which one?

Keep in mind: even if I send power to the 'wire' my doors won't lock or unlock with the key fob why? Because the lights have to be turned on for everything inside the car to work meaning key has to be in ignition, but the passenger door only works with or without this temp fix. (Locks / unlocks w/ key fob)
OK found some more info on this, did a google search and a forum had posted this

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-for...enon-high-beam-ok-low-beam-not-working-2.html

I don't have the info on the E53 LCM, but below is something for the E39, from bmwpost.ru, a russian site...

the wording on the picture is in russian



the for MOFSETs pictured are the equivalents for the replacement - there might be some other ones that meet the datasheets for these 4...

if you decide to "dry-test" the repair with the cover open, make sure you do not short anything inside (use piece of paper to protect open circuits) and do it for very-very short time - the MOFSETs produce a lot of heat, and without the heatsink they may burn out, or burn your hands...





for the parts i usually use Digi-key, partonline.com and ebay...

the internals of the LCMs can be different, due to different generation units, different car models... use the info at your own risk...

here is another picture from the same website:

1. right brake and left rear fog
2. left front fog
3. rear parking lights (inner)
4. right lowbeam
5. reverse lights
6. interior lights
7. parking lights, right rear and left front
8. righ front fog
9. left brake and right rear fog
10. parking lights, rear left and front right
11. left lowbeam
12. license plate lights, both (in the E53 actually each one runs individually)
13. turn signals, front right, side right, rear left
14. right highbeam
15. top-mounted stop light
16. turn signals, front left, side left, rear right
17. left highbeam

I guess im going to have to go back and re-examine my LCM and take it apart and check every solder point for burned/spark marks..

will post back for updates....
Serious Electrical Issue !!!! Help

Electronics Technology Electronic device Hardware programmer Computer hardware

Electronic engineering Electronics Electronic component Computer hardware Motherboard

Technology Electronics


Ok seems as though I have a different model then the above pics notice I don't have any of those small chips anywhere on mine. I don't see any noticeable burnt spots anywhere either especially on the white connector (x38)

I also found out that when I turn on my daytime lights the interior / dashboard lights don't come on unless I turn on the low beam headlights weird right?

Only thing I can think of since I had wires bridged to my AE's which is (or was) connected to my door puddle lights for the remote mod, when the spark had happened it kind of "tricked" the LCM ? Idk

But the above thought still doesn't clarify why there isn't any power going or coming from the passenger side headlight power wire.

Trying to not buy a new LCM low on money and this messes me up going to my
Next emissions since I got every code I had since I had the car cleared. Only 1 monitor left to read ready.... Now this BS
ok guys, looks like im zeroing down on the "issue", as I stated before, out of no where I found 2 blown fuses in the glove box (replaced).

from a couple of sources, it was told that I should check under the passenger seat for fuse F112 & F113.

I'll keep this simple and short, here are the results what i found:

In this video, this shows multi-meter testing fuses from left -> right starting with F107 (sorry but in the video I was calling out fuses 1-8 in numeric but you should get the idea, fuse 1 = F107 and so on):
http://vid.me/aXEq




I'll let you judge and see which one is bad :) I actually shook one of the fuse and heard something jiggling inside




References, that lead me to this point:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6516665&postcount=29
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7412387&postcount=1
http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/39589-light-control-module-pins-outs-e39/#entry405926


Thanks goes out to:
Burning2nd - advised to check fuses (but didn't say particularly which one :p)
TheAngryBear - helped through PM, and was a set of second eyes for me on the matter, and actually pointed me towards to check under the passenger seat.

I can repair fuses, as long as I can see/touch the broken solder pin, I did this before on my bmw, and didn't have any issues, ohms read out fine as well, I wonder if i can cut open fuse F113 and solder the pin back ? should I give it a shot ? or would it be dangerous...

Will try and find a way to replace this fuse asap but not sure how much it is.... trying to do a clean DIY fix with no $ spent, if this works, then this can save a lot of people just going and buying a new LCM which they dont have to... will report back after I fix / replace the fuse.
That was it guys, problem SOLVED ! everything works now....

Technology Electronic device Auto part Metal


Design Outerwear Button T-shirt Collar




Electronics Technology Electronic device Measuring instrument Wire


Electronics Electronic device Technology Gadget Cable

Fuse F113 tests out good 12v + baby

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Gauge Auto part

abs brake dsc lights are off except air bag ? :)

If You're installed a mod, or wiring through the body, please disconnect the battery, and dont do what I did, and dont use a coat hanger.
Awesome! Glad it is working out and Selina is happy again (or at least not unhappy).
Not being a jerk, but you should have probably have got a new fuse for that. That solder will melt at a different amperage than what the fuse was previously rated at.
That was it guys, problem SOLVED ! everything works now....

View attachment 530090

View attachment 530091

View attachment 530092

View attachment 530093

View attachment 530094
Fuse F113 tests out good 12v + baby

View attachment 530095
abs brake dsc lights are off except air bag ? :)

If You're installed a mod, or wiring through the body, please disconnect the battery, and dont do what I did, and dont use a coat hanger.
Good job,, glad you stuck with it.. I just cringed when you said you saw sparks fly! You might find a test light would save you some time.
Congratulations again.
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top