How much did u pay for it?
I figured it to be a wheel sensor at first. I suppose i will have to replace both to get anywhere.1. A/C charging requires evacuation and recharge with the correct weight of refrigerant.
2. Sounds like a bad wheel speed sensor. Search here for diagonstic help.
The fuel gauge issue might be solved by a treatment of Techron. The level sensors may be flummoxed.
You are correct: unless you sort out the ambient temp sensor, the A/C will not work, and your outside mirrors may get roasted.
The light control module is sensitive to brass-based bulbs, as well as bulbs at the end of their life. Consider replacing bulbs, and/or examining sockets for dirt or corrosion.
I figured it to be a wheel sensor at first. I suppose i will have to replace both to get anywhere.
Make sure you learn how to use the slash key (/) and the (F3) key in the bestlinks and you'll search even less!I search like crazy.
Take them one at a time.Maybe its just an assortment of these things
Miracle in a can? Maybe. Maybe not.I will have to try the Techron.
Was it -38°C outside at the time?the degrees has gone from -40 to -38 to -37. Is this still an indication of the sensor being bad?
It does act erratically at first. I don't remember when I replaced mine how long it did that. I'm sure it's in the threads though.I ask because i have read you must drive around a bit and it gradually climbs back.
I don't know, but typing /air conditioner F3 into the bestlinks finds these, which might have the answer:If it were to climb back, what does the sensor need to reach before the AC will be able to become cool again?
2.) Everything on the gauge cluster seems 'off'. RPM is the only thing that really works well.
Gas - seems spotty
MPH - does not work at all
Digital display - MPG stays at 5.9, Temp stays at -40*, MPH ---*---, and miles till empty is definitely inaccurate. Vehicle mileage doesn't change, Trip stays at 000.1
In general, it's rare for more than one wheel speed sensor to go bad at the same time - and - you could replace just one - and then if it doesn't change anything - swap it with the other on the same axle.
But I wouldn't do either of those two things. I'd get out my DMM and simply test it. Takes most people about a half hour - most of which is spent in reading this post found simply by typing /wheel speed sensor F3 into the bestlinks:
- Template for responding to the need to DMM check wheel speed sensors (1)
Make sure you learn how to use the slash key (/) and the (F3) key in the bestlinks and you'll search even less!
Take them one at a time.
Miracle in a can? Maybe. Maybe not.
See this, found by typing /techron F3 in the bestlinks:
Techron additives (1) & how to really clean your gas gauge sending unit (1)
Was it -38°C outside at the time?
It does act erratically at first. I don't remember when I replaced mine how long it did that. I'm sure it's in the threads though.
I typed /temperature sensor F3 into the bestlinks to find this thread, which my have that answer for you:
- Ambient temperature sensor breaking
I don't know, but typing /air conditioner F3 into the bestlinks finds these, which might have the answer:
- How to learn about (1) and set up your air conditioning (1) (2) & how to measure A C temperature (1) & how to remove the IHKA air conditioning control panel to clean the circuit board (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to check the IHKA sampling fan (1) & how to change OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)
Yes, if the wheel speed sensor is bad, you won't have the MPG information. The instrument cluster calculates it based on the volume of injected fuel and the distance traveled.
Measure the impedance of the temp sensor with a multimeter. If it is infinite, it's broken. The best would be if you measure it at the back of the instrument cluster. That checks all the wiring to the sensor.
"both tail lights are out"
there are 2 bulbs on each side for the tail light. 1 might be broken.