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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Someone please help me!

I have 2002 525i that has an oil leak going into the combustion chamber and getting spark plugs 5 & 6 wet with oil causing a misfire.

I would like to replace my VALVE STEM SEALS and was wondering if someone can please help me on this.

I know I got to remove the head and was looking for a DIY step by step with pictures on how to do this.

I also know that once I remove the head I need to take it to a machine shop.

Can someone please help me with a DIY ON REPLACING VALVE STEM SEALS?

Pleaseeeeeeee help...............
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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I know I got to remove the head and was looking for a DIY step by step with pictures on how to do this
I don't have a clue ... but ... I did a five-second /head gasket(F3) in the bestlinks and a bunch of threads came up.

Here's one that might help you:
- Combined advice for major decisions when a cooling system overheating caused suspected blown head gaskets, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, and valve damage (0) (1) (2) (3) & advice given to people faced with similar blown engine problems (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22)

This PDF in the bestlinks may also help:
- All the BMW E39 engine technical information you want to know about the M52 engine (pdf) and the M54 engine (pdf) & the M62 engine (pdf)

And, I wrote this to help someone a while back based on reading some of the head gasket DIY threads:

The basic cylinder head gasket DIY procedure is outlined below:

  • Raise the front of the car to gain access to drain plugs
    • Drain engine oil (probably contaminated with coolant)
    • Drain coolant (probably contaminated with exhaust gases)
  • Remove radiator viscous fan clutch & fan assembly
    • This job is easier if you purchase two recommended tools
  • Remove the radiator & the attached expansion tank assembly
    • Optional: Flush (or replace) the radiator & replace all hoses
  • Remove both drive belts
    • Optional: Replace with new
  • Remove the water pump & thermostat unit
    • Optional: Replace OEM plastic impeller waterpump with an aftermarket metal impeller design
  • Remove the ignition coils from the head & remove the spark plugs
    • Optional: Replace with new
  • Remove the valve cover to access the head bolts
    • Check for head bolts yanked out of their threaded holes by force!
  • After using the special camshaft alignment tool, remove the camshaft
    • You 'can' replace the head gasket without removing camshafts
    • But, head resurfacing requires camshaft removal
  • Remove the intake manifold (to access the cylinder head)
    • Optional: Consider replacing your knock sensors after removing the intake manifold
  • Remove the VANOS unit (to access the cylinder head)
    • Optional: Replace the VANOS seals while you're there
  • Remove the camshaft position sensor (CMP) from the cylinder head
    • Optional: Replace the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) while you're there
  • Remove the lower timing chain tensioner to loosen the chain on the camshafts
  • Disconnect the VANOS oil line (to access the cylinder head)
  • With a special tool inserted into a hole in the engine block & flywheel, lock the engine at top dead center (TDC) for cylinder number 1
    • This is to accurately time the camshafts when you reassemble the engine
  • Remove the cylinder head bolts hidden under the camshaft with a special Torx socket tool
  • Enervate all electrical connections and heater core hoses innervating with the cylinder head
  • Disconnect and loosen the exhaust manifold
  • Remove the cylinder head
    • Tie off the timing chain so it doesn't fall into the block
    • Remove the camshafts prior to sending the head for reconditioning
  • Send the cylinder head to a machine shop for resurfacing
    • Don't forget to save the oil pressure check valve on the bottom of the cylinder head
  • Have the machine shop check for cracks in the cylinder head
    • A crack will cause any new head gasket to fail!
    • Cracks 'can' be repaired by the machine shop
  • Have the machine shop measure, lap, and grind the valves
  • Optional: Have your fuel injectors cleaned & 'matched' (1)
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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To the OP:

Your job, beside to fix your engine, is to give back to the team.

When you finally 'do' locate the needed valve-job DIY, please let us know what you found was the best resource.

I'll put it in the bestlinks once you identify it.

If 'everyone' did this (identifying the best resource they found), we would easily have a stellar fixit database for all future users.

BTW, these also may help:
- Replacing the M54 head gasket (1) & 540i cylinder head (1) & M54 cam shaft (1)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To the OP:

Your job, beside to fix your engine, is to give back to the team.

When you finally 'do' locate the needed valve-job DIY, please let us know what you found was the best resource.

I'll put it in the bestlinks once you identify it.

If 'everyone' did this (identifying the best resource they found), we would easily have a stellar fixit database for all future users.

BTW, these also may help:
- Replacing the M54 head gasket (1) & 540i cylinder head (1) & M54 cam shaft (1)
Will do, I will go through them all and let you know. Thought it'll take me a while for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just heard that there is such a tool called "Valve Spring Remover Installer Compressor Tool Kit Set"

Has anyone heard of this tool? I can save tons of work and $ by purchasing this tool. If anyone has heard of this tool, please let me know.:yikes::yikes:
 

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Older than old school
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I assume Bluebee's post gave you enough info to get the head off. Once you've done that, you need to remove the cams and compress the valve springs with a valve spring compressor. This link, from Blueebee's post above, seems pretty good for the teardown once the head is off. Bentley's has a caution about the hydraulic tappets:


Here's a diagram of the valve seals (#5 in the diagram):



However, the overall job is a complicated process with many steps, and if not done correctly, potentially disastrous consequences. The reassembly is more difficult than the disassembly. You'll be digging into the engine's valve timing mechanisms, and it's critical that you know how to re-install the camshafts properly.

You'll want to make sure that it's absolutely the correct diagnosis before you get into it. Good luck.
 

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Older than old school
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I just heard that there is such a tool called "Valve Spring Remover Installer Compressor Tool Kit Set"

Has anyone heard of this tool? I can save tons of work and $ by purchasing this tool. If anyone has heard of this tool, please let me know.:yikes::yikes:
Here's a good video showing the tool and how it's used. The guy is actually working on a Honda, but his advice applies to BMW as well. I especially like his advice to put a magnet on top of the valves to grab the retaining clips when you compress the valve spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I assume Bluebee's post gave you enough info to get the head off. Once you've done that, you need to remove the cams and compress the valve springs with a valve spring compressor. This link, from Blueebee's post above, seems pretty good for the teardown once the head is off. Bentley's has a caution about the hydraulic tappets:


Here's a diagram of the valve seals (#5 in the diagram):



However, the overall job is a complicated process with many steps, and if not done correctly, potentially disastrous consequences. The reassembly is more difficult than the disassembly. You'll be digging into the engine's valve timing mechanisms, and it's critical that you know how to re-install the camshafts properly.

You'll want to make sure that it's absolutely the correct diagnosis before you get into it. Good luck.
Isn't there a way to replace the valve stem seals without removing the entire head using this "Valve Spring Remover Installer Compressor Tool Kit Set"?
 

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Older than old school
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One problem is that the valves are underneath the camshafts and lifters (a slight misnomer, by the way, because the "lifters" acutally depress the valves, rather than lift them), so you have to remove them to get at the tops of the valves, where the seals are located.

There may be a tool that you can fasten onto the top of the head to depress the spring, but you will need to keep the cylinder filled with compressed air to keep the valve against the valve seat and prevent it from falling into the cylinder once you remove the retaining clips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One problem is that the valves are underneath the camshafts and lifters (a slight misnomer, by the way, because the "lifters" acutally depress the valves, rather than lift them), so you have to remove them to get at the tops of the valves, where the seals are located.

There may be a tool that you can fasten onto the top of the head to depress the spring, but you will need to keep the cylinder filled with compressed air to keep the valve against the valve seat and prevent it from falling into the cylinder once you remove the retaining clips.
I saw this one on Ebay and hope that it'll work for what I need it, please take a look and let me know what you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Valve...motiveQ5fTools

My main thing is trying to do this without having to do all that extra work such as removing the head, but please tell me what you think?
 

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Looking at this photo, it appear it could work, but I notice that BMW is not listed as one of the cars that it's suited for.
 

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You also still have the problem of re-installing the cams and VANOS sprockets so that your valves are timed correctly.
 
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