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RedRooster
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem with a parasitic drain in my car.
I used multimeter to find responsible fuse and it was Fuse 30 according to diagrams.
The drain currently is 0.22 amps or 220 mA which is almost 10 times too much. When i remove fuse 30 it drops to 0.2 which i think is the right drain.
I have checked all doors and trunk and FSU (by disconnecting them individually and checking amps) but i havent found anything.
Could it be GM? And should i replace it? Or is there anything else what could cause this?
Here is an image of the responsible fuse
 

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Smuggled into the 'Fest
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1,266 Posts
It's unfortunate that your previous thread didn't turn any results, maybe it will catch on this time. I have no idea, but maybe a wire's insulation got brittle and cracked so the wire is shorting. :dunno:
 

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RedRooster
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes. Saddly.I was spending so much time and thinking about this problem,that i didnt find time to post anything.:/
However tomorow a,friend who has spare General Module. Will give me it. And ill try to put it in and see if anything changes. If things go okay il post about it in here!:)
Holding my thumbs!
 

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Registered
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817 Posts
I have a problem with a parasitic drain in my car.
I used multimeter to find responsible fuse and it was Fuse 30 according to diagrams.
The drain currently is 0.22 amps or 220 mA which is almost 10 times too much. When i remove fuse 30 it drops to 0.2 which i think is the right drain.
I have checked all doors and trunk and FSU (by disconnecting them individually and checking amps) but i havent found anything.
Could it be GM? And should i replace it? Or is there anything else what could cause this?
Here is an image of the responsible fuse
FSU? Are you talking about fuel flap one?
Also how cold does it get in Latvia?
Cold enough to have heated door locks?
 

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Old School
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4,123 Posts
May disconnect one unit at a time while monitoring battery drain. The bad circuit will then show up.
 

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RedRooster
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In Latvia at coldest it can get to -25 degrees celsium.
But currently its only about 0 outside,but the car is inside garage where its +15

And about disconnecting all the parts individually-I already did that. Found nothing.:/
 

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RedRooster
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Currently things I disconnected and checked if battery is still draining.
Relays
Doors (lock acutators bassically i disconected everythimg from each door)
Fsu
Trunk lock/acutator
Radio
Heater
Still havent checked sunroof and petrol cap(but they are working fine)
im about to change General Module from another 91 bmw
 

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2,255 Posts
Maybe a quick way of figuring out what circuit is draining would be to take a couple good pictures of your fuse box. So that you can recognize fuse colors and locations, along with relays as well. Then get your needle nose pliers out and with your amp meter in series from battery post to clamp, and go to town. You should, as BMWFF, said see it drop off. FWIW, I changed my alt, engine to chassis ground, DME relay, fixed an alternator power cable short, and still had only some stupid draw that would kill it if I didn't drive it over a weekend. Then one day, my radar detector wouldn't turn on. Have a Y-cigarette lighter plug, which feeds phone charger and detector, so I knew the 12v was still there. Turned out the fuse blew in the cord, and just this weekend I check the cord. It has a short in a wire that's always been taken care of. That short, I now believe, has helped me spend countless dollars. Point is, do not overlook even the supposedly known things, double, triple check. What you think would be unrelated and couldn't possibly draw enough, may be hiding the stupid gremlin. I used that detector for years, saved me many tickets for sure, and only occasionally did I have a dead battery.

Honestly, I may not have even checked the cable, and just assumed the detector was toast, had I not went to pull the fuse out of the cords end and been burned by how hot it got in seconds.
 
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