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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well where do I start...My car loves to burn some oil, it only seems to do it that I can see when I get on the gas, someone mentioned valves but I'm not sure. If I do hours of highway driving and stop like going to the beach(4 hours of hwy driving one way) it'll complain about oil at least when I get there or coming back. Also have that annoying Brake Light Circuit message, then randomly the car will display "E46 Regalt" and I read that it means there is a crack in the CCM resistor. It needs new shocks, and tie rods even though I replaced them 4 or 5 years back they are seized together and will not budge. The radio fuse constantly keeps burning out, it used to just burn out and would last till you hit a bump I think so I'm guessing there is a short. Lastly there is an acceleration issue, getting on the gas it accelerates to about I think 2k and for a short period its just like blah then it'll get past that point and get up and go, but it does this constantly.
 

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Sounds suspiciously like you own an old BMW ! :) Just jk. We've all been there.

Relax and listen to me. Then, heed my words. I will lead you out of the darkness and into the light. We will heal your panzer.

1. Do the stomp test.

2. Then take your car to an indy workshop. Pay them for a full engine and undercarriage inspection of everything. Will take less than half an hour and does not require tools apart from hands and eyes. You can get away with $50 or sometimes even for free.

3. Note everything that is busted. Note all the diagnoses and recommended repairs the mechanic gives you. Use a notebook if not you will forget. Take good closeup pictures in good light.

4. List it all down and group them together in terms of location to save time and money by grouping repairs later.

5. If in doubt as to diagnosis, recommended repairs, repair grouping and costs of parts and labour, ask specific questions here. We will help you fine tune it.

6. Schedule the repairs according to your time and your budget.

7. Execute.

There's nothing else to it.

Oh btw do read this :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8133571&postcount=24
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
2. Then take your car to an indy workshop. Pay them for a full engine and undercarriage inspection of everything. Will take less than half an hour and does not require tools apart from hands and eyes. You can get away with $50 or sometimes even for free.
What exactly am I trying to get out of this trip to the workshop? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, I managed to pull my transmission and replace seals, throwout bearing and all parts related to clutch when the tob left the car stranded.
 

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I see. You are a seasoned Joe and you were just lamenting. Fine.

Burning oil - look for leaks. No leaks, look for smoke in the tailpipe. No smoke, check that you're using the right rating. Oil that's too light gets burned relatively fast.

Do the stomp test to pull the stored error codes. Some of these codes may be transient or old, so take note of them, delete the codes, drive for 2 days, then do the stomp test again. Take action on repeated codes.

Acceleration flat spot at 2k - this is probably your tps (throttle position sensor). On an M50 engine, its located on the throttle body on the right. Unplug that and go for another drive and see if the flat spot is resolved. Even if it isn't, contact clean the tps and its connector, use a toothbrush to get all corrossion out, and plug it back. Other possibilities might be a dirty ICV, although I do doubt that. I'm assuming that your air filter is fine.

The other issues you mentioned, I'm not familiar though so I'll leave it to my brothers of the sword to handle.

I still advise you to do an undercarriage inspection to check for rust, loose or busted bushings, and to check quality of the oil - for general maintenance purposes. To many people fail to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It don't really have much of an oil leak except around the oil pan(didn't do this till I put synthetic in it when I first got it) but nothing that continuously drips. I believe I finally got the intake manifold and around the spark plugs to stop leaking last time I replaced the gasket. Idling it don't smoke but if you get on the gas while driving it and you watch you can see the smoke come out. Every now and again it'll throw the CEL, wife backed the cars tailpipe into a tree stump and the O2 sensor wire got damaged, I taped them in hopes of repairing it but I'll get down there and do another stomp test.
 

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Well where do I start...My car loves to burn some oil, it only seems to do it that I can see when I get on the gas, someone mentioned valves but I'm not sure. If I do hours of highway driving and stop like going to the beach(4 hours of hwy driving one way) it'll complain about oil at least when I get there or coming back....
What oil are you using??? My E34 with 90,000 miles burns zero oil and I drive 80-90 on the freeway during my 110 mile daily commute, using 20/w50 Castrol conventional...:dunno:

IMHO, 0/w30 and 5/w30 are way too light for the M50...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is said that Mozart could tell a note that was off by one eighth of a tone. That was fine music, and that was Mozart.

When it comes to cars, if you can hear a torque convertor on an autobox at any point, something is wrong. Either it is damaged (most likely) or convertor of a non stock rating was installed to that engine, it is overheating severely, or something.

So even if yosemitae driver could hear it, it means something is wrong or different about it.

Here's an interesting article on torque convertor noises :

http://www.ehow.com/info_10072213_bad-torque-converter-sound-like.html

I'd like to see some of those posts on forums where this issue is apparently settled law.
I've got no idea how this relates to my matter at hand.

What oil are you using??? My E34 with 90,000 miles burns zero oil and I drive 80-90 on the freeway during my 110 mile daily commute, using 20/w50 Castrol conventional...:dunno:

IMHO, 0/w30 and 5/w30 are way too light for the M50...
I've got 5w/30 or 5w/40 in it, its burned oil for over 4 years.
 

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I've got no idea how this relates to my matter at hand.
It doesnt.

Stumbling at 2K, it can be a variety of problems, i really do need more information, experience, etc. does it jerk at this point (spark or fuel problem such as dead or dyying coilpack and or fuel pump etc), or just flat line before picking up again (tps, ICV etc, or still, the former things)
i have no experience with the stomp test available in US spec cars as i am based in a so called "euro" market, but scanning the engine should in most cases identify the problem.

As far as oil consumption goes, that is something a stomp test or a scan wont pick up as there is no relevant sensor for such as issue.
is there blueish smoke coming from the exhaust when on the power or revving the engine etc? this would suggest an internal problem such as rings, valve seals, etc. All uneconomical problems to repair, live with it or engine replacement. or is thier smoke or drips external to engine? trace the smoke/oil lines to thier source to identify thier source. There a too many possibilities to diagnose really. common places at this age of the vehicle are valve cover gasket(s) and rear/front main seals which are almost always original and at the age now where they are several years past thier use by date no matter the milage of the engine. other possibilities include sump gasket(s), dipstick oring(s) etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Suspension

Need some help with suspension. I'm not looking for anything fancy here, just want something similar to OEM. I've been looking at the Sachs/Boge 312 393 which is OEM from what I can tell for the front and Sachs/Boge 290 275 for the rear. What is my best choice here? Is there anything else that may need replacing? Such as the shock mount? Not sure what typically goes bad.
EDIT: From what I've seen it appears they sell kits that include the Protection boot, foam bump stops, and upper/lower spring pads.
 
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