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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the preferred spark plug for an 05 645? While I am changing my valve cover gaskets, it would seem like the smart thing to do. I am at 65K miles.

Suggestions

Thanks!
 

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Realoem list 2 brands for the 2005 645CI

BOSCH FGR7DQP +4
Part Number 12129071003

NGK BKR6EQUP Laser Platinum
Part Number 12120141871

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EH73&mospid=47767&btnr=12_1104&hg=12&fg=05

I have used NGK in all my cars and never had a problem. I have used the Bosch in my 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 along time ago and didn't like them went back to the OEM NGK.

Here a link to read about Bosch and the NGK

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=220762

Everyone is going to have a opinion on this subject.

Marc
 

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Also Rockauto has the NGK for around 6.00 and the Bosch +4 for about 3.00 after rebate. Autozone is a little higher at about 9.00 for the NGK and 6.00 for the Bosch.

The NGK Iridium IX are a nice plug to, but I never tried them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies!

Opinion's is what I want to here. I figured NGK might be the choice. :dunno:I have not liked how Bosch spark plugs, have performed in the past for me.
 

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I've heard changing the plugs is quite challanging. Any idea or do u have a manual you can share? I wanted to do this too.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Bimmer App
 

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Bosh and NGK both make excellent plugs. On racing forms that I read NGK tends to have a better reputation so I always go for NGK if I have a choice.
 

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Michael
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Spark plug

The hardest part of changing the spark plugs is the 2 back cylinders left and right hand side of the engine. Took me a while to work out how to do them with the right hand side being the hardest. The TIS manual will explain some of it but not all, this time experience will tell.
I am sure that Yorgi will have good knowledge on the best way to deal with them........
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will have to read TIS on the spark plug change. I figured why I had the valve covers off, most everything would be out of the way. Looks like it might be more of a challenge than I thought!
 

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I have yet to change plugs on my 6er so I am not sure how difficult it is to access the two plugs closest to the firewall.

On my other BMWs it was very simple. Remove the engine cover unclip and remove the coils then use a socket with extension on the plugs.

You might have to remove the cabin micro filters and the tray under them but that is a 5 minute job. There are instructions on how to remove the tray in my brake pad DIY.

The only tips I have are:
1) remove the middle engine cover and the two ignition coil covers
2) follow these TIS steps to remove coils
3) use electrical tape to fasten the socket to the extension, otherwise the socket will end up stuck to the plug when you remove the ratchet
4) use a small amount of anti-seize on the plug threads
5) torque to 23Nm (17 lb-ft) if not using anti-seize or 30Nm (22 lb-ft) if using anti-seize on the threads
 

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Another suggestion, a trick that I have used for years to start a recessed plug into the hole. The worst thing that could happen is to cross thread the initial opening, it becomes very difficult to get the plug in straight afterwards. Simply use a small diameter hose, one that holds the plug tight. In the attached picture it is a 3/8th diameter hose and works perfect. This allows you to start the plug as if you are starting by "finger tightening". The good part about this is that the hose does not force the plug into the engine at an incorrect angle.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Michael
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removal or rear spark plugs

The rear spark plugs left hand and right hand side are quite difficult. The left hand side first, when you remove the ignition coil you have to push the air-con pipe away either to the front or rear either way it is a real hard push and you still have to angle the coil to pull it out, does not come easy but persevere, then you need to put your socket on an angle joint to get it down the the spark plug. As you cannot just use the standard extension for plug removal. Once I got the plug loose it would not come up in the socket so I used a magnet on the end of a flexible extender ( you can buy these anywhere, every tool case should have one).
To put the plug back in I used the magnet to get the first few threads in and then tightened with the socket.
The right hand side is the hardest, it took me two hours (with my head in my hands) as my socket set got stuck in the spark plug socket, why? as you unscrew the spark plug you drive your socket plus extender into the side of the bulk head. I was down to having to hacksaw the shaft to get it out......
The trick is to use in my case two angle extenders with a short extension piece makes the whole thing look quite wobbly, guide the whole thing into down onto the spark plug and then unscrew slowly, again if the plug drops out of the socket, then use the magnet to pull it out.
~I jest you not this is the hardest spark plug I have ever changed in my life, and you can see why BMW charge a small fortune to replace the plugs.
The insertion of the plug is the reverse of the above, and the same for the ignition coils.
I hope I have been able to give some insight to how it is done, believe when I say it was a real B****H !!!
 

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....I hope I have been able to give some insight to how it is done, believe when I say it was a real B****H !!!
Holy smokes what a story! :yikes: Not looking forward to attempting this.

+1 on the magnet-on-a-stick being a must-have. I probably have 5 different magnet pick-up tools and they have saved my butt a few times.

Do you think a fully flexible extension would have helped, or is the angle so sharp that you have to use a u-joint?

Something like this:
 

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Michael
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flexible extension

The issue is the ability to get down to the spark plug when the space above the coil aperture is so limited, (the side wall close to the +ve battery terminal). If you think of the length of the coil plus the ability to remove the plug. this gives some idea of the issues. Plus you also need a torque wrench to re-tighten . I am sure the kind of extension you show in the picture will be flexible enough to complete the task(any flexible extension must be able to handle at least 27nm, most will only do about 7nm.).
The re-insertion of the coil is just as much fun, remember which way you turn it to remove it in the first place and do the reverse. Follow the old adage what came out must somehow go back in !!!
Once understood how to do it now would not stop me in the future from replacing the plugs. I know the CBS say 65K miles for plugs but I replaced at 50K. when they came out they looked in really good condition, but will do the same again. I used NGK top spec plugs, not cheap !!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Will the spark plug have easier access while having the valve cover off. With the valve cover off, removal of the spark plug dome should give me easier access. My only other fear of removing the valve cover is the servomotor for the eccentric shaft. It looks like I will have to reset it with DIS, then clear the code. I would think that if I mark the location with a scribe mark, I could slide it back in the same way. Is the servomotor similar to a distributor?


This looks like it is going to be a lot of fun! It might be easier to remove the motor, then do all of the work.

Thanks for the replies!
 

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Michael
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valve cover removal

I don't believe you need to remove the valve cover you are making work, to be honest which is not necessary and no advantage gained. When you do the closer plugs you will understand what is necessary and how to do them, so when you reach the rear ones you will understand all of the small screws etc needed to be removed to get to the plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am going to change my valve cover gaskets. While doing this, I think I should go ahead & change my plugs. Everything will be out of the way, hopefully it should be easier!

Thanks
 

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Michael
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Hi, when you do come to change the plugs, given your approach, it would be good if you could update the forum. If you find a better way to change the rear plugs then I for one would be interested to understand and learn. I have tried to impart my experience, but recognise that as each member completes the task the general knowledge will increase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will try & take some pics as I go. I am not the most patient person, when I work on things. Since I have plenty of time on my hands, I will take my time!

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Just out of curiosity...what is the recommended interval to replace spark plugs?

Also, may I ask why you are replacing the valve cover gasket?
 
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