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Humble E34 lover
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
There have been multiple requests on how to perform the stomp test on the E34. Here it is per the Bentley manual. (According to Bentley, this is for 1992-1995 models only)

1. Turn ignition key to position 2 (just before cranking the engine)
2. Fully depress the accelerator to the floor 5 times within 5 seconds
3. The check engine light (CEL) will stay on for 5 seconds, blink off, come on for 2.5 seconds, then go off for 2.5 seconds. At this point, the fault codes will begin to flash.

If more than one code has been detected, each code will be separated by a 2.5 second pause. Edit: Sometimes if there is more than one code stored, the computer will NOT advance to the next code after a brief pause like all the write-ups and procedures say, it continually repeated the same code. If this is the case, push the pedal 5x after each code to make it advance to the next code. When all fault codes have been displayed, there will be a 0.5 second flash and then the light will remain off. To read the codes again, turn the key off and then on again. Repeat the process above.

To erase the fault code memory, first make sure the fault code 1000 (short blink and then the light goes out for a long period) is present, then depress the throttle fully for at least 10 seconds. Repeat the stomp test to look for code 1444 (no faults stored).

Here is a decent video I found on you tube of someome doing the the procedure. The code on this video is 1221.


Here is a listing of the fault codes for our OBD I E34's:

1211 DME Control Unit
1215 Air Mass Sensor
1216 Throttle Potentiometer
1218 Output Stage, Group 1
1219 Output Stage, Group 2
1221 Oxygen Sensor 1
1212 Oxygen Sensor 2
1222 Lambda Control 1
1213 Lambda Control 2
1223 Coolant Temperature Sensor
1224 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
1225 Knock Sensor 1
1226 Knock Sensor 2
1227 Knock Sensor 3
1228 Knock Sensor 4
1231 Battery Voltage/DME Main Relay
1232 Throttle Idle Switch
1233 Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch
1234 Speedometer A Signal
1237 A/C Compressor Cut Off
1242 A/C Compressor
1243 Crankshaft Pulse Sensor
1244 Camshaft Sensor
1245 Intervention AEGS
1247 Ignition Secondary Monitor
1251 Fuel Injector 1 (or group 1 for DME 1.3, cylinders 1, 3, 5)
1252 Fuel Injector 2 (or group 2 for DME 1.3, cylinders 2, 4, 6)
1251 Fuel Injector 1
1252 Fuel Injector 2
1253 Fuel Injector 3
1254 Fuel Injector 4
1255 Fuel Injector 5
1256 Fuel Injector 6
1257 Fuel Injector 7
1258 Fuel Injector 8
1261 Fuel Pump Relay Control
1262 Idle Speed Actuator
1263 Purge Valve
1264 EGO Heater
1265 Fault Lamp (check engine light)
1266 VANOS
1267 Air Pump Relay Control
1271 Ignition Coil 1
1272 Ignition Coil 2
1273 Ignition Coil 3
1274 Ignition Coil 4
1275 Ignition Coil 5
1276 Ignition Coil 6
1277 Ignition Coil 7
1278 Ignition Coil 8
1281 Control Unit Memory Supply
1282 Fault Code Memory
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage
1286 Knock Control Test Pulse
1444 No Fault Codes stored
1000 End of fault code output

Hope this helps
Steve
 

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There have been multiple requests on how to perform the stomp test on the E34. Here it is per the Bentley manual.

1. Turn ignition key to position 2 (just before cranking the engine)
2. Fully depress the accelerator to the floor 5 times within 5 seconds
3. The check engine light (CEL) will stay on for 5 seconds, blink off, come on for 2.5 seconds, then go off for 2.5 seconds. At this point, the fault codes will begin to flash.

If more than one code has been detected, each code will be separated by a 2.5 second pause. When all fault codes have been displayed, there will be a 0.5 second flash and then the light will remain off. To read the codes again, turn the key off and then on again. Repeat the process above.

To erase the fault code memory, first make sure the fault code 1000 (short blink and then the light goes out for a long period) is present, then depress the throttle fully for at least 10 seconds. Repeat the stomp test to look for code 1444 (no faults stored).

Here is a decent vides of the procedure. The code on this video is 1221.


Here is a listing of the fault codes for our OBD I E34's:

1211 DME Control Unit
1215 Air Mass Sensor
1216 Throttle Potentiometer
1218 Output Stage, Group 1
1219 Output Stage, Group 2
1221 Oxygen Sensor 1
1212 Oxygen Sensor 2
1222 Lambda Control 1
1213 Lambda Control 2
1223 Coolant Temperature Sensor
1224 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
1225 Knock Sensor 1
1226 Knock Sensor 2
1227 Knock Sensor 3
1228 Knock Sensor 4
1231 Battery Voltage/DME Main Relay
1232 Throttle Idle Switch
1233 Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch
1234 Speedometer A Signal
1237 A/C Compressor Cut Off
1242 A/C Compressor
1243 Crankshaft Pulse Sensor
1244 Camshaft Sensor
1245 Intervention AEGS
1247 Ignition Secondary Monitor
1251 Fuel Injector 1 (or group 1 for DME 1.3, cylinders 1, 3, 5)
1252 Fuel Injector 2 (or group 2 for DME 1.3, cylinders 2, 4, 6)
1251 Fuel Injector 1
1252 Fuel Injector 2
1253 Fuel Injector 3
1254 Fuel Injector 4
1255 Fuel Injector 5
1256 Fuel Injector 6
1257 Fuel Injector 7
1258 Fuel Injector 8
1261 Fuel Pump Relay Control
1262 Idle Speed Actuator
1263 Purge Valve
1264 EGO Heater
1265 Fault Lamp (check engine light)
1266 VANOS
1267 Air Pump Relay Control
1271 Ignition Coil 1
1272 Ignition Coil 2
1273 Ignition Coil 3
1274 Ignition Coil 4
1275 Ignition Coil 5
1276 Ignition Coil 6
1277 Ignition Coil 7
1278 Ignition Coil 8
1281 Control Unit Memory Supply
1282 Fault Code Memory
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage
1286 Knock Control Test Pulse
1444 No Fault Codes stored
1000 End of fault code output

Hope this helps
Steve
Cool. I'm getting code 1224.
 

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maybe your light is out? :dunno: when i first for the e34 the engine light had a black tape over it so it wouldn't show. then again i live in little mexico 5 mins away from the border. sell sell sell!:rolleyes:
 

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Humble E34 lover
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sticky!!!!!!!
I added this to my "Mechanical things you need to know" sticky thread.

maybe your light is out? :dunno: when i first for the e34 the engine light had a black tape over it so it wouldn't show. then again i live in little mexico 5 mins away from the border. sell sell sell!:rolleyes:
:confused:

Steve
 

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well down here it is a huge i mean huge business the export and salvage cars for rebuild at the car lots here. so at times to sell sell sell and move these cars fast, they hack them to make them seem like they are running fine and once they are in mexico they don't care.:thumbdwn:
 

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Humble E34 lover
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
what's wrong with your car? and what year?
I edited my original post. The video shown is not my car. It was a video that I found on youtube. I used it because it had a code that could be easily figured out by someone watching the procedure for the first time.

Fortunately for me, there is noting wrong with my car. Sorry for the confusion.

Steve
 

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I edited my original post. The video shown is not my car. It was a video that I found on youtube. I used it because it had a code that could be easily figured out by someone watching the procedure for the first time.

Fortunately for me, there is noting wrong with my car. Sorry for the confusion.

Steve
Sir, what's right with your car? Some glorification would be a nice change. :)
 

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Humble E34 lover
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sir, what's right with your car? Some glorification would be a nice change. :)
I'm referring to my E34. Everything is right with it :D

My E36 ...., now that's a different story :cry:

Steve
 

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i was asking ricks what was wrong with his car steve, since he wants to get the codes out of his car. and what's wrong with your e36?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i was asking ricks what was wrong with his car steve, since he wants to get the codes out of his car. and what's wrong with your e36?
It will not start. I have been through the entire diagnostic procedure and have ruled everything out except the DME. I'm not getting spark. Replaced the CPS with the one from my E34 and still no spark.

One caveat on the E36 is that it is a 95 model and has the EWS II which is unique to 1995. A standard red label 413 DME will not work. It has the silver label DMW for the EWS II and it is rare to find used. Even if I found one, I would likely have to have it re-coded to my car which would involve towing my car to the dealer (35 miles) and their labor at $120 per hour, even if they would agree to re-code a used DME. I have considered sending the DME to have it rebuilt at a cost of $475. It would be guaranteed for 5 tears and there would be no recoding issues since it is the one that came out of my car.

I have been communicating with Roberto a lot and he has suggested a couple of things involving either a EWS delete chip or there is a process involving a red label 413 DME and cutting a wire and bridging some other wires on the EWS module. I'm not very good with electrical issues and am hesitant to start cutting and bridging wires. There was a lot of information in the communications with Roberto and I have to really sit down and digest it.

I will probably write a nice dissertation about it once I get it resolved.

Steve
 

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well we have dealt with two EWS locked cars both 95.
First we tried on a red label ECU to test the EWS theory. When they started, we simply cut the wires that need to be looped and do the ews delete. Since in 1995 it was still a test EWS 2 on the OBD1, and not a full one that needs to have the ring and key chip in order to start. What roberto has told you is very true. try it and you will be surprised, wire is #66 but i'm sure you know that :thumbup: (sorry for the horrible sentence i was hungry and wife was calling me over to the table so i was typing with my fist)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well we have dealt with two EWS locked cars both 95. First we try on e red label ECU to test the EWS theory and then they start we simply cut the wires and do the ews delete since in 95 it was still a test EWS 2 and not a full one that needs to have it in order to start since it is still OBD1. What roberto has told you is very true. try it and you will be surprised, wire is #66 but i'm sure you know that :thumbup:
I'm sorry, but I'm a little confused by the run on sentence (not flaming, just not sure I'm understanding you).

I'm glad that you confirmd Roberto's assertion. I'm probably going to have to have him or someone like you to lead me through it by hand since I really don't understand electircal stuff well at all.

I don't know if it makes any difference or not, but the engine turns over fine, just no spark. Does that change your assertion? I know when I replaced the ignition tumbler a while back, I initally forgot to re-install the EWS ring and the engine would not turn over indicating that the EWS was functioning. As soon as I replaced the ring she fired right up.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cager,
See my thread "525 Head". I just completed a rebuilt head installation. I've double checked every connection. Engine started up and runs fine while idling but I'm experiences two things.

1) RPM's fluctuate high and low when I increase throttle to @ 1500 or more. If I quickly throttle it, I get a quick hesitation then the fluctuating symptoms.

2) Transprogram indicator has lit up and I believe the tranny is now in "safe" mode.

This is a long shot: I applied die-electric lubricant on some of the connections and perhaps some of the small pins are cross shorting each other????
I'll go back in there, pull some apart and look. If I see the excessive lubricant in them, I'll blow them out with my compressed air gun.

Other than than, seems there could be many causes for the transprogram to come on.
Not sure about the trans program rick, but could the camshaft position sensor still not be connected? TemprarySanity just had to replace his. The symptoms you describe seem like it could point to that. Have you done the stomp test since you got the car started? If not, it would be a good idea to see if it is throwing a code because it seems to be an electrical problem in nature.

Steve
 

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Not sure about the trans program rick, but could the camshaft position sensor still not be connected? TemprarySanity just had to replace his. The symptoms you describe seem like it could point to that. Have you done the stomp test since you got the car started? If not, it would be a good idea to see if it is throwing a code because it seems to be an electrical problem in nature.

Steve
Disregard
 

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i also co-own an e39 with my brother hehe... well let me look into this and discuss it with the guys here i'm sure I've heard this one before.... i have to go to work for now and have my hands full on a projector with AE i promised but after work i'll get full on to this :thumbup:
 

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i also co-own an e39 with my brother hehe... well let me look into this and discuss it with the guys here i'm sure I've heard this one before.... i have to go to work for now and have my hands full on a projector with AE i promised but after work i'll get full on to this :thumbup:

Cause of my surging was I crossed connected the ICV & TPS. Problem solved!
 
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