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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I rarely drive my E93 now (less than 3000 miles per year), and in winter I drive once in 10 days or so (sometimes once in 2 weeks) to give the car a workout to keep it in working condition.

Should I take some measures for proper storage especially since the car is aging now..? Furthermore, I hear winter in Canada this year will be brutal... So I might go without driving my car more than 3 weeks in the coming months. I've done some research watching some videos and reading some links - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=766143

https://youtu.be/Y53VptsjYAw

https://youtu.be/gqaq3a8Q-zM

https://youtu.be/RN22T9yZK8Y

Would these steps be necessary if I won't be driving my car for, say, a month during winter season?

Also, I'm worried about mice... I'll be going on a trip in Jan for about 2 weeks. Would spraying Mr. Clean around the garage inside and out be enough to prevent mice from getting in? We've done this all our lives, and it seemed to repel mice so far... Or should I really block the intake?

Thanks in advance.
 

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All you really need to do is store it with a car cover and keep a small heater running underneath the car to dry moister and prevent rust on the frame. I know it sounds a little odd, but my friends father has a 1969 Camaro SS/RS Pace Car and he's been doing that since he got it in the 70's, and there's not one spec of rust on the frame/body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
All you really need to do is store it with a car cover and keep a small heater running underneath the car to dry moister and prevent rust on the frame. I know it sounds a little odd, but my friends father has a 1969 Camaro SS/RS Pace Car and he's been doing that since he got it in the 70's, and there's not one spec of rust on the frame/body.
Thank you. I'll do that!
 

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A trickle charger on the battery should be all you need .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A trickle charger on the battery should be all you need .....
Well... I hope that is true.

But I realized I didn't refuel my car for 3 months (Dec, Jan, Feb) last winter. This can't be good for the car, can it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Put some rodent poison or traps in the garage. The mice can't eat your air filter if they're dead.
If I put poison or traps in the garage, I might see dead mice... No way man... I don't wanna see dead animals!
 

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I store a car every winter in my backyard that I don't drive in the snow. Things I have learned:

1) Walmart has a "moisture capture" plastic thingy made for RVs (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Damprid-Rv-Boat-Moisture-Absorber-4-lbs/16627481 ). Use this as it will keep the risk of condensation down. My first year storing, when it started to warm up the following spring, I noticed beads of water sitting on the INSIDE of my windshield and door windows. Ever since I started using the Walmart thingy, no problems at all with moisture.

2) Moth balls. These keep critters out. I learned this because a squirrel made its home in my HVAC blower motor housing. You have no idea how long it takes to get a nest out of there. And how much "tree debris" can be blown through your HVAC vents and all over your car's interior......

3) Battery charger. Go to CTire and get the smallest NOCO one. It's "intelligent" so it won't overcharge the battery, and it's 0.75 amps, so super low current. I leave mine running 24/7.

4) Turn the car on every 2 to 3 weeks, and let it come up to temp (I let mine run for ~25min).

As for your gasoline question, I have the same gas in the car I store from November to April-ish. I know this isn't ideal, and yes, gas CAN go bad. That said, you should be fine for somewhere between 3 and 6 months. I find the most important thing is only having ~1/4 tank of gas to begin with. Then, when spring rolls around, I can fill the tank to the top with fresh gas from the station. I have not experienced any issues with the car not starting, running rough, or anything of the sort from "older" gas. But of course, who knows, it could happen one day.

Since you've got the 'vert, I would also suggest that making sure all the moving parts of the top are lubricated well, before storing. And if you get a melt (say, 10 degrees or higher), use the top so it gets some exercise.

Oh, and I personally get an oil change right before storing. Others will disagree with me on this, but I personally believe that having the least contaminated / used oil in your engine, the better, especially since the oil is just sitting there, undisturbed, for long periods of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I store a car every winter in my backyard that I don't drive in the snow. Things I have learned:

1) Walmart has a "moisture capture" plastic thingy made for RVs (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Damprid-Rv-Boat-Moisture-Absorber-4-lbs/16627481 ). Use this as it will keep the risk of condensation down. My first year storing, when it started to warm up the following spring, I noticed beads of water sitting on the INSIDE of my windshield and door windows. Ever since I started using the Walmart thingy, no problems at all with moisture.

2) Moth balls. These keep critters out. I learned this because a squirrel made its home in my HVAC blower motor housing. You have no idea how long it takes to get a nest out of there. And how much "tree debris" can be blown through your HVAC vents and all over your car's interior......

3) Battery charger. Go to CTire and get the smallest NOCO one. It's "intelligent" so it won't overcharge the battery, and it's 0.75 amps, so super low current. I leave mine running 24/7.

4) Turn the car on every 2 to 3 weeks, and let it come up to temp (I let mine run for ~25min).

As for your gasoline question, I have the same gas in the car I store from November to April-ish. I know this isn't ideal, and yes, gas CAN go bad. That said, you should be fine for somewhere between 3 and 6 months. I find the most important thing is only having ~1/4 tank of gas to begin with. Then, when spring rolls around, I can fill the tank to the top with fresh gas from the station. I have not experienced any issues with the car not starting, running rough, or anything of the sort from "older" gas. But of course, who knows, it could happen one day.

Since you've got the 'vert, I would also suggest that making sure all the moving parts of the top are lubricated well, before storing. And if you get a melt (say, 10 degrees or higher), use the top so it gets some exercise.

Oh, and I personally get an oil change right before storing. Others will disagree with me on this, but I personally believe that having the least contaminated / used oil in your engine, the better, especially since the oil is just sitting there, undisturbed, for long periods of time.
WOW. Thank you so much for taking your time to write all this. I really appreciate it!
 

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There was a guy on here recently that had a mouse chew through a fiberoptic
line for his radio. It caused the most bus to fail but substituting the radio and
amp did not help.
 

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p-Dichlorobenzene (PDCB) is a chlorinated volatile organic compound (VOC) that is widely used in essentially pure form (>99.8%) as a repellant against snakes, rats, mice, squirrels, bats and insects. Why not scatter this around the tires of the car while it is parked for extended time?

Definitely get a battery tender...an E9n consumes electricity from the battery on a constant basis, which is why the use of a tender prevents the battery from discharging to a very low state during a long period.
 

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I second the tender. on my wife's e46, we had to replace the battery EVERY year when we didn't use it all winter. and the one didn't have near the amount of electronics running that our e93 does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I second the tender. on my wife's e46, we had to replace the battery EVERY year when we didn't use it all winter. and the one didn't have near the amount of electronics running that our e93 does.
I now have a battery tender.

Last winter, my car displayed "increased battery discharge" warning after not being driven for 2 weeks.
 

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You might want to use some fuel stabilizer since it doesn't sound like you will be using much fuel. Keep the tank full to reduce moisture condensation in the tank.
 

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I sometimes leave for a month or so. I agree with the above and would like to add the suggestion that you wrap your windshied wipers in saran (cling) wrap so the rubber does not attach to the windshiels glass.
 
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