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Cross Drilled Huh?
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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I did a quick search that yielded nothing.

I have not had my brakes changed for some time, and I sat down to do it since the pads were down and I found that my rotor retaining bolt head was stripped down to a minimal grip point.

To my dismay, I tried getting it out with what little hold I had left, and I ended up stripping the thing even worse...it felt pretty over torqued since I couldn't even feel it budging...

How do I get it out without risking any residual damage.

So, upon sitting there just wondering what to do...I saw a support hanging off of my passenger side strut, just hanging...not attached to anything. I checked my driver side strut and everything was fine...

I think this had to have happened when I got my new tires over 2 weeks ago...how do I fix it and how important is it that I fix it ASAP?
 

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You are likely going to have use a screw extractor to get the rotor retaining bolt off. In a pinch, you could just drill the head off and leave the bolt/shaft in place. The bolt only holds the rotor in place when the rim/wheel is not mounted, and after the rotors have been install for any length of time they get pretty stuck to the hub anyway.

Could the missing nut be for the headlight auto-leveler? It's either that, or the swaybar end link. (like Nervous said)
 

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Cross Drilled Huh?
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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is stabilizer bar link (or "Front swing support"), should be connected to stabilizer bar. #5 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BD53&mospid=47713&btnr=31_0517&hg=31&fg=10
You can just buy a selflocking bolt (#6) or replace the whole thing (comes with bolts). Try to move ball joint, if it too loose or if rubber boot is ripped - replace.
Ok, everything seems in tact, so I'll just buy the nut, only problem is the parts don't meet so I'm going to try and see if lowering the car helps, once I put the wheel back on, I'm guessing that I've been driving on it for a few weeks now that it isn't too bad.

You are likely going to have use a screw extractor to get the rotor retaining bolt off. In a pinch, you could just drill the head off and leave the bolt/shaft in place. The bolt only holds the rotor in place when the rim/wheel is not mounted, and after the rotors have been install for any length of time they get pretty stuck to the hub anyway.

Could the missing nut be for the headlight auto-leveler?
I wouldn't know how to drill the head off, I guess I'm going to have to pick up a screw extractor then, don't really have much experience with them, guess I gotta start somewhere

Thanks guys
 

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Cross Drilled Huh?
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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I tried drilling the head off, this thing is not coming off at all...its a 6mm hex - so I tried a 6mm bit, a 6.3 and a 6.7 and nothing seemed to work. I got pretty frustrated so I just decided to quit before I inadvertently damage anything...I think I'ma scratch this one and just take it to my indy and see if he can figure it out...

Thanks for the help guys
 

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I gotta have more cowbell
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933 Posts
So I tried drilling the head off, this thing is not coming off at all...its a 6mm hex - so I tried a 6mm bit, a 6.3 and a 6.7 and nothing seemed to work. I got pretty frustrated so I just decided to quit before I inadvertently damage anything...I think I'ma scratch this one and just take it to my indy and see if he can figure it out...

Thanks for the help guys
The retaining bolt has only a small flange head. I heard people hammer the rotor til the bolt flange breaks. When rotor off you can turn screw with pliers.
 

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We want the Lion!
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7,771 Posts
+1. Just drill the head off; remove the resultant stub with a vice-grip.

Never cases to amaze me that people torque this thing on with a death grip.
 

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I just had the same problem this weekend and went the same route with the screw extractor, etc. I had never drilled out a screw and found that I had my drill speed too high. I bought a good 5/16'' metal drill bit and went SLOW with the drill. Make sure there are metal fragments coming out. I probably drilled for 5 mins or so. It is actually pretty easy and the screw head will just come loose eventually and the rotor is free. I then drilled into the bit of the screw still stuck with a smaller drill bit and used the screw extractor to back out the remainder of the screw. PM me if you still have trouble and I can go into more detail.
 

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Cross Drilled Huh?
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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea, thanks for the continuing help guys - I really felt defeated, but so far I thought of heating it up and just knocking the screw off with a rubber mallet (option 1) and then keep on keepin' on with the drill...Seriously though, I drilled the crap out of this thing and it didn't budge...all that happened was smoke from heating up the WD40 and I hit a road block as no more metal was flying off...I'm going to keep trying as I feel a need to continue because I hate giving up and just giving it to someone else who'd probably just try the aforementioned methods and make me look like a jack ass...

Thanks again for all the guidance everyone!

This car just seems to be PMSing this week - just changed sparks and now I think I got a bad fuel filter! :bawling:
 

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We want the Lion!
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7,771 Posts
Beg, borrow or steal a NEW drill bit, about 3/8" - just slightly smaller than the hole in the rotor hat. To be honest, WD-40 is useless here, it will just make it wet, might help cool the bit. if you want to get the stub out, you need a real penetrating oil, like PB Blaster or Kroil or even Liquid Wrench. Don't be surprised if the rotor is still stuck when the set screw head disintegrates. Unless someone used anti-sieze on the back side of the rotor, it's probably rusted onto the hub. Whack it a few times with a hammer and it'll pop off.

When the stub is exposed, spray it down with penetrant and then wait. Lock the vice grip onto the stub with the jaws FACING the rotor as close to the hub as possible and then use a wrench on the jaws to unscrew it. Don't lock it on sideways and twist, you may shear it off.
 

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Is it Trackday yet?
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8,975 Posts
Liquid wrench probably would have prevented this issue. When you do get it out, be sure to clean the hub real well with a wire brush PRIOR to putting on the new rotor. Pay special attention to the center bore area and use anti-seize paste on it and the new locator screw. This will make the next change much less of a hassle.
 

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Manualaholic
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1,855 Posts
Ruined- the same thing happened to me, don't panic. I bought two drill bits, and ended up breaking both of them before I got it out. Grab a set of these as well:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952315000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

As mentioned, be patient and slow drilling it out, then tap the extractor in and you're all set!! Get the square kind, not the spiral, they are the best!

That would be your stabilizer link (as others have said). It looks like you can bolt it back on if the threads aren't stripped.

Good luck- don't give up, you'll end up paying $50 for a $10 job you can do yourself!
 

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Cross Drilled Huh?
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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ruined- the same thing happened to me, don't panic. I bought two drill bits, and ended up breaking both of them before I got it out. Grab a set of these as well:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952315000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

As mentioned, be patient and slow drilling it out, then tap the extractor in and you're all set!! Get the square kind, not the spiral, they are the best!

That would be your stabilizer link (as others have said). It looks like you can bolt it back on if the threads aren't stripped.

Good luck- don't give up, you'll end up paying $50 for a $10 job you can do yourself!
Thanks for the words of encouragement goose! Much appreciated - and good looking out on the square ones, I might give those a shot once I try it out...seems a more pressing matter has forced me to put the brake job on the back burner for the time being...

And no the threads are perfect, nut looks like it just decided to take a vacation...
 
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