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KONI Red proved really good in that comfort/performance balance. Bilstein B6/8 (8is version for lowered vehicles) have similar function as KONI Red, but emphasis is on performance. KONI is going for balance. I personally on X5 would try KONI Red. They are both superb quality. Bilstein proved though better on track environment taking beating.


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Okay, when 40k more I have to change to new shock, I will try KON. But I didn’t see one for the F15.
let’s me know if you see one.
 

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2011 xDrive35i Sport
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I already bought the Bilstein B6s. I would have tried the Koni but I don't like the 2 year warranty, I prefer the lifetime limited warranty from Bilstein. I used Bilstein before and I was happy.

I'm planning to go with Lamfoerder for everything else. Regarding the front Upper Control Arm, the Lamfoerder version looks like the straight replacement of the BMW OE part with "No Camber Setting" and Meyle offers a version with "Specially designed control arm that allows for negative and positive camber correction, also features a serviceable ball joint"


Any advantage of going with the Meyle considering this is a daily driver?
 

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I already bought the Bilstein B6s. I would have tried the Koni but I don't like the 2 year warranty, I prefer the lifetime limited warranty from Bilstein. I used Bilstein before and I was happy.

I'm planning to go with Lamfoerder for everything else. Regarding the front Upper Control Arm, the Lamfoerder version looks like the straight replacement of the BMW OE part with "No Camber Setting" and Meyle offers a version with "Specially designed control arm that allows for negative and positive camber correction, also features a serviceable ball joint"


Any advantage of going with the Meyle considering this is a daily driver?
Mine is Merle upper control arm.
Most Of Bilstein have a smooth setup for the bump and fast firm for the re-bump, but B6 is more like very firm bump and fast re-bump.
How firm? In my rearview mirror, I can see the rear seat passenger head is heavily bouncing around and their butt is barely on the seat.
after all, no matter what I do for the X5 still a high point of gravity. It better than most of other vehicle in same category but I can't ask much more than X5M level.

I already bought the Bilstein B6s. I would have tried the Koni but I don't like the 2 year warranty, I prefer the lifetime limited warranty from Bilstein. I used Bilstein before and I was happy.

I'm planning to go with Lamfoerder for everything else. Regarding the front Upper Control Arm, the Lamfoerder version looks like the straight replacement of the BMW OE part with "No Camber Setting" and Meyle offers a version with "Specially designed control arm that allows for negative and positive camber correction, also features a serviceable ball joint"


Any advantage of going with the Meyle considering this is a daily driver?
I already bought the Bilstein B6s. I would have tried the Koni but I don't like the 2 year warranty, I prefer the lifetime limited warranty from Bilstein. I used Bilstein before and I was happy.

I'm planning to go with Lamfoerder for everything else. Regarding the front Upper Control Arm, the Lamfoerder version looks like the straight replacement of the BMW OE part with "No Camber Setting" and Meyle offers a version with "Specially designed control arm that allows for negative and positive camber correction, also features a serviceable ball joint"


Any advantage of going with the Meyle considering this is a daily driver?
 

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I already bought the Bilstein B6s. I would have tried the Koni but I don't like the 2 year warranty, I prefer the lifetime limited warranty from Bilstein. I used Bilstein before and I was happy.

I'm planning to go with Lamfoerder for everything else. Regarding the front Upper Control Arm, the Lamfoerder version looks like the straight replacement of the BMW OE part with "No Camber Setting" and Meyle offers a version with "Specially designed control arm that allows for negative and positive camber correction, also features a serviceable ball joint"


Any advantage of going with the Meyle considering this is a daily driver?
Since you won’t track X5, more negative camber won’t matter that much.


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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Since you won’t track X5, more negative camber won’t matter that much.


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Thanks for the help Edycol, I appreciate it.

It looks like I will have to go with the B4s and the end, I was told that the front struts and right side rear shock is backordered and there is no ETA and it could be months. I need to contact a couple more places to see but I'm not positive they will be in stock. In ECS Tunning website it says March 2023!

For what I'm seeimg, the B4s are available now.
 

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Considering the miles, what else is suggested to replace? I was considering the following, see label pictures attached for reference:

Picture "D"
  • 4

Picture "B"
  • Maybe 16 & 21

Picture "E"
  • 5, 10, 16
  • Specific question about number 16 BMW part # 31126863785 and 31126863786 Offered and FCP Euro ==> There is BMW "Standard Camber Setting", Lemforder & TRW "No Camber Setting" and there is Meyle "Specially designed control arm that allows for negative and positive camber correction, also features a serviceable ball joint". Which one would be the recommended one?


I hope its okay to link this, MODS if not, please let me know and I can remove:

E
#16 = verdict = meh. very little gain for alot of labor. both myself and the op agree, you can barely tell the diff. I bought standard one, I didnt need camber adjustment

B
I did numbers 16 + 21 + 6 + 2 + 3 , and it was very worth the trouble.
(awesome video, from fcp, they cover all of the above parts)

D
number 4 = 100% do the end links, very inexpensive item to replace and only takes a few minutes.
 

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Thanks for the help Edycol, I appreciate it.

It looks like I will have to go with the B4s and the end, I was told that the front struts and right side rear shock is backordered and there is no ETA and it could be months. I need to contact a couple more places to see but I'm not positive they will be in stock. In ECS Tunning website it says March 2023!

For what I'm seeimg, the B4s are available now.
Though, going Mayle HD mean no fluid in control arm bushings. They are solid rubber. It will make steering bit better (not sure it needs to be anymore better in E70) and they could last longer than regular hydro bushings.


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2004 BMW X5 E53 3.0 automatic
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2004 X5 (e53) 3.0i
For what it's worth, the rear sub frame mounts are pretty easy for weekend DIY mechanic like myself. I used a "Rear Suspension Subframe Bushing Removal Installation Tool" ($60 tool from Amazon) that worked very well to squeeze them in/out.
 

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Are you referring to the PowerFlex inserts?

If yes, they were easy to do.

Super duper easy.

(just need to loosen a few bolts to gain a few inches of clearance, nothing fancy)


Yes, I was. Thanks for the pics. How would you rate the impact of the inserts? Did you do one side at a time with a jack under to support while you lowered each side?
 

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Yes, I was. Thanks for the pics. How would you rate the impact of the inserts? Did you do one side at a time with a jack under to support while you lowered each side?
IMO, this is a must do. Really firms up the rear, no more bobble head effect when going over speed bumps or dips in the road. No more side to side slop as well.

The rear end just feels .... GOOD. Even the wife notices and appreciates it.

I did one side at a time, with a jack to support. When you get underneath, it all kinda just comes together and starts to make sense. I did take some more pics that day, lmk if you need em hosted / posted somewhere.




As of 09/02/2022, Power Flex products are on sale at various outlets. Example, 15% off here:
Font Food Natural foods Plant Rectangle

 

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Sorry to rain on parade, but if going polyurethane, only full bushing. Inserts are gimmick that can go south under heavy strain.
I have Powerflex polyurethane bushings in my E90 and use car as both daily and track. It is worth upgrade, but only going full poly bushing. I have seen broken inserts on track cars. Take time, get full bushings, you can even go black (race ones).
Here is how it looks on my subframe



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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I was able to get the Bilstein B6s at the end. The rear shocks are coming with this bump stop/damper/shock absorber, I'm not sure what would be the correct name. See attached picture of the B6 with it as reference.

Since the B6 is coming with that bump stop/damper/shock absorber, Do I still need to buy the BMW rear damper/shock absorber? see link below:

BMW Additional Damper Rear - Genuine BMW 33536773236

Thoughts?
 

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I was able to get the Bilstein B6s at the end. The rear shocks are coming with this bump stop/damper/shock absorber, I'm not sure what would be the correct name. See attached picture of the B6 with it as reference.

Since the B6 is coming with that bump stop/damper/shock absorber, Do I still need to buy the BMW rear damper/shock absorber? see link below:

BMW Additional Damper Rear - Genuine BMW 33536773236

Thoughts?
No. B6 comes with bump stops and everything you need except lower mounts.
Front B6 has bump stops integrated inside the strut.


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@edycol are these the Koni Reds you're referring to?


I have a set that I've yet to install, holding off because not 100% sure of the procedure but I'm looking for more comfort. OEM shocks at almost 140K feel very "crashy" when going over bumps.

Car feels planted in turns but feels dead rebound wise

A quick question, when doing the rear struts, can all bolts be tightened in the air or only after being fully loaded by the weight of the car?
 

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A quick question, when doing the rear struts, can all bolts be tightened in the air or only after being fully loaded by the weight of the car?
some of the steps do mention, to torque down in the "normal position" (under load)

I have those same koni reds, ordered in April, and Turner finally shipped them to me a week ago. will be installing, soon


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@edycol are these the Koni Reds you're referring to?


I have a set that I've yet to install, holding off because not 100% sure of the procedure but I'm looking for more comfort. OEM shocks at almost 140K feel very "crashy" when going over bumps.

Car feels planted in turns but feels dead rebound wise

A quick question, when doing the rear struts, can all bolts be tightened in the air or only after being fully loaded by the weight of the car?
Those are Koni’s I referred to.


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@evilchargerfan thank you! This makes it much much easier. Do you by any chance also have the procedure and torque specs for the front struts? Looks like you and I are going down the same road.

On a random note, based on your username, are you from SD?


Rear shock mounts (go Monroe lower mounts they are harder rubber)
Compared to OE (worn ones), would these be more for performance or comfort? As this is my DD, I'm looking for more comfort than performance
 
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