[Demented_genius]

Hi,

I have try to search here but could not find an answer.
The problem is that the automatic tailgate will not close using any of the buttons.
If I take out and put back in the fuse 121, 7,5A for det tailgate, it will close one time. Open it again and it will not close. When I push the button It will only try to open more.
The lower gate i closed and I have checed the microswitc. It seems okey.
I have change the Spindle drive on det left side. The old one was defect.
Any Idea?
Is there a way to reset or re-initialize the tailgate/control module?
It seems like it has to be taught where it is....

thanks

 

[ninja_zx11]

You can try reading this thread.

 

[Demented_genius]

I have read that post. As I said I have tested the microswitch on the lower gate. That seems okey

 

[ninja_zx11]

I have read that post. As I said I have tested the microswitch on the lower gate. That seems okey

Then the best option is to get ISTA and start diagnosing HKL module by running test plans.

 

[Demented_genius]

The dealer did diagnosing. They found out that the left spindle drive was faulty. I have replaced that. Befor I replaced the spindle the tailgate dident work at all...

 

[TwoLane]

I had a similar problem- liftgate would open, but not close. tailgate latch switch was ok, fuses were ok. Turned out I needed a new JBE module. Mine had water damage, probably due to sunroof drain problem. Replaced it with a used one from ebay and all is fine now.
Except for my transfer case, but that's a different story...
Are you having any other flaky electrical issues? Seems like just about everything goes through the JBE.

 

[Demented_genius]

How did you find out that the JBE module was damaged?
The only other electrical issues is that 2 of my CA handles are not working. The dealer have tested them and they say that the handles is faulty.

 

[TwoLane]

WhIle it was at the dealer for the driveshaft issue, I asked them to look at the tailgate and they said it was jbe module. 1200 to replace. I said no thanks and got one on ebay. When I pulled the old one, it was obvious there was water damage- corrosion etc.

 

[Demented_genius]

Thanks for that. I will check out my JBE.
A mechanic told me that maybe the sensors in the spindles drive have to be calibrated.
Does any one know of a coding program that I can do that with?

 

[ninja_zx11]

Does any one know of a coding program that I can do that with?

Post no.4 above

 

[Demented_genius]

Thanks
Do you know if it is the ISTA P or D I need? And what HW equipment I need? Is this kit enough? http://rheingoldusa.com/conc/index.php/store#!/BMW-Rheingold-ISTA-D-3-56+-Certified-ENET-Cable-+-Certified-K+DCAN-Kit-for-BMW-F-Series-&-E-Series/p/54360934/category=16152034

 

[Mventrice]

Did you figure it out

I have the same problem. D/s spindal was changed. Gate still only goes up but not down unless I reset the system with fuse 121

 

[Demented_genius]

I had my car in to a workshop to calib the tailgate. They found out that they couldn't see any data from the right side spindle (old that haven't been changed). So I change the right side also. Works perfectly now For fun I opened one of the old spindles. It was ful of rust.... The motor was ful of rust and the smal circuitboards was corroded. so its not sealed.. Can also mention that the tailgate is a lot quieter now

 

[Doug Huffman]

I noticed that the telescoping cover gap faces upwards, allowing water to drain into the interior of the swindle strut. I need to look for a drain hole - or make one.

 

[Demented_genius]

I noticed that the telescoping cover gap faces upwards, allowing water to drain into the interior of the swindle strut. I need to look for a drain hole - or make one.

Most of the time it will face downwards. And the cover side is where the spring etc is. The motor and electronics are at the other side. Its sealed from that side. I´m sure the moisture comes in the cable hole...

 

[serge1]

Tailgate stopped opening and closing automatically a week or so ago (I posted in another thread).
Inside button releases the lock, but tailgate does not lift up.
Outside red button results in nothing but a click.

Rheingold pointed to check the control module in the back.

Removed the paneling back there. Well, guess what..

Water.

There was some water in battery compartment, enough to splash around during vehicle movement and even get 3rd row carpet soaked a bit.

Passenger side compartment (where fuses are) had probably half an inch of water!

Well, that water was splashing around and reached the lowest hanging fruit - that is the "Tailgate Lift Control Unit"

Sure enough, after taking it out for inspection, it was damaged - some of the delicate lines on the electric board got corroded.

My first thought was blocked drainage. It does happen occasionally to folks on the forum and cause havoc.

Then, I remembered that a few days prior, I was pressure washing the undercarriage. That had to be how the water got there. To support that, there was no rain for a good week before tailgate stopped working.

There is a vent right there, through which water under pressure likely came in.

Best vision is in hindsight: *Check for water after any undercarriage pressure washing*.

This omission is going to cost me around $175 for my current part number: 61357304626.

Hopefully, no extra programming is required other than some calibration in Rheingold (yet to confirm).

Ugh, live and learn.. :-/

 

[DieselDonkey]

Tailgate stopped opening and closing automatically a week or so ago (I posted in another thread).
Inside button releases the lock, but tailgate does not lift up.
Outside red button results in nothing but a click.

Rheingold pointed to check the control module in the back.

Removed the paneling back there. Well, guess what..

Water.

There was some water in battery compartment, enough to splash around during vehicle movement and even get 3rd row carpet soaked a bit.

Passenger side compartment (where fuses are) had probably half an inch of water!

Well, that water was splashing around and reached the lowest hanging fruit - that is the "Tailgate Lift Control Unit"

Sure enough, after taking it out for inspection, it was damaged - some of the delicate lines on the electric board got corroded.

My first thought was blocked drainage. It does happen occasionally to folks on the forum and cause havoc.

Then, I remembered that a few days prior, I was pressure washing the undercarriage. That had to be how the water got there. To support that, there was no rain for a good week before tailgate stopped working.

There is a vent right there, through which water under pressure likely came in.

Best vision is in hindsight: *Check for water after any undercarriage pressure washing*.

This omission is going to cost me around $175 for my current part number: 61357304626.

Hopefully, no extra programming is required other than some calibration in Rheingold (yet to confirm).

Ugh, live and learn.. :-/

Sorry to hear
Search my name for the the thread
I had to replace my tailgate lift module for same thing
Still get water occasionally back there and keep a towel and sponge back there and check weekly.
Interesting

Never saw the vent myself!
Would love to know where it is as I siliconed all the grommets up top in the tailgate but water still gets in.

No programmig needed for me btw

 

[serge1]

Sorry to hear
Never saw the vent myself!
Would love to know where it is as I siliconed all the grommets up top in the tailgate but water still gets in.

#15 here.

Looks like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E70-E71-E72-F07-Trunk-Boot-Air-Vent-Cover-9122453-/290754842193

It is meant to relieve cabin pressure.

IIRC when installing hitch (bumper removed), I saw there are flaps that stay closed to prevent dust coming inside cabin; open only when cabin pressure is greater.
This, of course, may not prevent water under pressure from entering...

 

[Doug Huffman]

#15 here.

My X5's been away for a week and a half at the body shoppe getting $4K of invisible deer hit damage repaired, and now I'm putting the default stuff back in and starting to pack for two months on the road bicycling in SC and FL.

So checked the left and right rear electronics compartments and found the left and right 'rear ventilation' pieces, to note that the louvered surfaces face outboard into an inaccessible space rear and above the wheel well. That is, it would seem, inaccessible to hose water.

I also found two ~1" body plugs in the bottom surface of the compartments that removed will let water in or out of the compartment.

The ventilation pieces apparently come apart into the louvered piece and the flat piece, but it's 25°F in the garage and I have just had an object lesson on the effect of low temperatures on BMW plastic, so I did not try to separate them.

The GD deer first appeared in my RH mirror digging hard to pass the X5 on the right, when she got even with the right front bumper she tried to cross left in front but leaned on the reflector-camera assembly. The reflector shattered and so did the camera mount, the seam was clearly uneven, but that's about all - for $4K!.

 

[serge1]

The GD deer first appeared in my RH mirror digging hard to pass the X5