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Hiii Ed, glad to hear again from you.


Erm I had a favor to ask of you, it's job related if you want to help me out, I'll PM you when you let me know if you want to help.





Happy (late) Merry Christmas everyone.

Arrived this morning to Dallas, 23hr drive no issues and no traffic, it helped that we left on Christmas morning as just about everyone was opening presents.

I have plans to see two places I couldn't last year, and meet with some friends that moved down here. After that is all family time. I hope to hit a few junk yards too and see what I could find, specially some 96-99 M3 struts for Koni inserts, back in jersey everyone wants crazy money. Junk yards are much much less expensive here than back home so I can pick up a bunch of small parts and stuff.

This week will go fast, staying until New Years, have to be back for my sister's back to school.


I like the new super sticky thread, less clutter and makes searching easier, maybe if the links grow to be too many we could split them into categories. Good job Ken.




Lastly for anyone that has been in Boston, could you recommend a few places to see, I have some friends with their toddlers going up there so I thought I could pass on some suggestions for their trip.
Fanuiel Hall is pretty interesting, but not much there for the toddlers.
http://www.faneuilhall.com/
 

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BMWCCA HPDE Instructor
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So these last few days away from work, I have been casually shopping for various things for my bike. Like with cars, bikes can of course be modified to no end and there is a huge aftermarket. I've largely resisted doing anything major to my bike, but I do get the itch on occasion. Bike people always say that the single biggest improvement you make is to upgrade the wheels. So I started looking at new wheelsets and was enjoying the process of researching my options. Seems that most medium grade wheels run in the $600-900 range (for both front & rear). That's just for somewhat decent aluminum wheels, not even carbon fiber, which are of course far more expensive. Then all of the sudden it dawned on me... Holy crap, how are bike wheels so expensive compared to automotive wheels?! It was at that moment when everything was put into perspective, and I decided that I'm totally cool with the wheels I've got... :rofl:
 

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Yeah that's probably because the Chinese and the South Koreans haven't bothered to seriously go into high end production of bike wheels and this leaves opportunity for manufacturers to price as they choose...
 

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BMWCCA HPDE Instructor
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They have, actually. The Chinese are producing a lot of carbon fiber road bikes that have really pulled the price down. I think the same is true of wheels, but even so, bike parts remain really expensive. I just thought it was funny that I was at one moment totally fine with the idea that if I wanted to upgrade my bike wheels, I'd probably be looking at spending around $800 or so, but then realized that was insane. So at this point, I think I'll probably only replace my wheels if (i.e., when) I damage what I currently have.
 

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I Am The Machine
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So these last few days away from work, I have been casually shopping for various things for my bike. Like with cars, bikes can of course be modified to no end and there is a huge aftermarket. I've largely resisted doing anything major to my bike, but I do get the itch on occasion. Bike people always say that the single biggest improvement you make is to upgrade the wheels. So I started looking at new wheelsets and was enjoying the process of researching my options. Seems that most medium grade wheels run in the $600-900 range (for both front & rear). That's just for somewhat decent aluminum wheels, not even carbon fiber, which are of course far more expensive. Then all of the sudden it dawned on me... Holy crap, how are bike wheels so expensive compared to automotive wheels?! It was at that moment when everything was put into perspective, and I decided that I'm totally cool with the wheels I've got... :rofl:
:rofl: Had an acquaintance in college that was big into road bikes and had $3000 just in his CF wheels. I know it's nuts.

PS, I'm over in your hood right now. Just outside Everett.
 

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Speaking of wheels and tires, I'm needing a front set on the M and am seriously considering these. They're Chinese but some Mitsubishi EVO driving friends who are very unforgiving have been impressed.
 

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The Canadian Prick.
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Hiii Ed, glad to hear again from you.


Erm I had a favor to ask of you, it's job related if you want to help me out, I'll PM you when you let me know if you want to help.
Absolutely! Anything I can do, just let me know.
 

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BMWCCA HPDE Instructor
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Speaking of wheels and tires, I'm needing a front set on the M and am seriously considering these. They're Chinese but some Mitsubishi EVO driving friends who are very unforgiving have been impressed.
Eh, why not get something nicer for your M3? Those appear to have a fairly low performance all-season type tread pattern, and it would be a shame to install low performing tires on an ///M car.
 

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Coming to think about it, the guys who use them or similar type of tyres on their EVO'S or Impreza's go through tires so fast because they're always racing each other every weekend and doing tire burning work outs on crowd requests.. Lol..it probably makes sense for them to find a balance between cost and performance where as I only ever do the occasional weekend run out of town and back. So your suggestions actually suit my usage better...I agree... Had my eyes set on some Continentals and I'll be paying them a visit in a couple of weeks as the holiday expenses in presents have dented the wallet...lol...
 

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Btw... There's an interesting and amusing thread in the E39 section that's only 23hrs old and has drawn in so much critical reaction and input about this guy with his 540i titled

"Why is my car such a piece of ****"
 

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Btw... There's an interesting and amusing thread in the E39 section that's only 23hrs old and has drawn in so much critical reaction and input about this guy with his 540i titled

"Why is my car such a piece of ****"
LOL, he's really only got two problems brakes and valve cover gasket), neither of which should be insurmountable to fix. He's gone through 2x the $ for CPS than he would have to just get the VCG done.
 

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Ambitious But Rubbish
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Ho ho ho!

Hope everyone had a good holiday and maybe got some needed time off!

I ended up spending yesterday working on the Denali as the valley pan gasket was leaking oil. Got it all fixed up, but now it has a really funky idle once it warms up. Kinda pulses a few hundred RPM and the dash lights pulse with the motor. Wondering if it's a vacuum leak or what. Everything runs smoothly, no hiccups at cruising speed or during acceleration. I did have to pull a few vacuum hoses to remove the intake manifold, so maybe it's one of those that ended up with a tear or something?

What else could affect just a warm idle?
 

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D'oh, You Kids!
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Put a DMM on your battery while it idles. The lights pulsing with the idle speed doesn't sound normal at all. Maybe the alternator is going belly-up?
 

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Ambitious But Rubbish
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Put a DMM on your battery while it idles. The lights pulsing with the idle speed doesn't sound normal at all. Maybe the alternator is going belly-up?
Maybe so, but it's odd to me that this just started after I did all the work yesterday.

I'll throw a multimeter on the battery and see what is happening. The dash gauge stays constant at a tick over 14 V.

I guess I need to check my connections. I unplugged the MAP, the MAF, the throttle body (it's drive by wire), the alternator and the knock sensors.

There are also a couple of vacuum hoses that I removed, that go from each valve cover to the intake manifold. I wonder if one of those ripped or something as I was moving them around.
 

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Maybe so, but it's odd to me that this just started after I did all the work yesterday.

I'll throw a multimeter on the battery and see what is happening. The dash gauge stays constant at a tick over 14 V.

I guess I need to check my connections. I unplugged the MAP, the MAF, the throttle body (it's drive by wire), the alternator and the knock sensors.

There are also a couple of vacuum hoses that I removed, that go from each valve cover to the intake manifold. I wonder if one of those ripped or something as I was moving them around.
Sounds like you've picked up a vacuum leak after the intake manifold R&R. Time to get out the brake cleaner and start testing around the intake manifold to see if squirting on a spot gives an idle speed increase.
As to it being warm only. It's likely a small leak since it's not significantly affecting drivability. Most systems run somewhat open loop when cold, and switch to closed loop when warm like BMWs do. Could be the open loop mix is compensating for a small leak and when the mix gets leaner after the switch to closed loop it's having some effect. I'd bet your idle speed is down and the normal flicker in the lights that the filtering removes is dropping to a frequency that you can now see.
 

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Ambitious But Rubbish
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Sounds like you've picked up a vacuum leak after the intake manifold R&R. Time to get out the brake cleaner and start testing around the intake manifold to see if squirting on a spot gives an idle speed increase.
As to it being warm only. It's likely a small leak since it's not significantly affecting drivability. Most systems run somewhat open loop when cold, and switch to closed loop when warm like BMWs do. Could be the open loop mix is compensating for a small leak and when the mix gets leaner after the switch to closed loop it's having some effect. I'd bet your idle speed is down and the normal flicker in the lights that the filtering removes is dropping to a frequency that you can now see.
Sounds like a good theory, Don... I'm curious to see how it acts when I leave the office later and is cold again. That was my thought re: open vs closed loop.

Hopefully I can find a few minutes tonight to futz with it... will report back :thumbup:
 

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Ambitious But Rubbish
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Well, mystery solved. A vacuum line popped off while I was reinstalling the intake manifold. Oops!

 
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