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I'd be surprised if you did that just turning the engine by hand. You would have had to put a lot of force on it after the bind to strip off those teeth. Any possibility it was already like that and you just found it when you were turning the engine?

I kind of forced it, should have kept an eye on the chain.



Congrats on finally being able to enjoy the Miata Alex, that sure was a loooong wait looks like it was worth it.
 

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Santa
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I got my Miata insured, plated and on the road yesterday. The first thing I did was take it on a 130 mile fun drive through the mountains. The Miata is so fun to drive. I was going cray up some mountain road while stay fairly close to the speed limit. There definitely something to be said for slower cars that feel fast. It felt so go to drive something fun after being stuck in the Camry for so long. Today I got the Miata inspected and the first thing I did after I got it home was remove the cat. It turns 25 years old next year and I don't have to inspect it again till next year, so it is essentially emissions exempt now. Inside the cat was surprisingly clean for a 24 year old car. I put an OBX resonator in place of the cat. I took the car out to hear how it sounds now and it is pert hard to notice before 4k. After 4k it is slightly louder but it is not a big difference. I do love the way it smell though.



On a related note, I am selling the Camry now. Before I post it on CL I though I would offer it here first. It is a perfect car for anyone looking for a cheap daily beater you don't care about. I will let it go cheap to any regular forum member here for only $500. If anyone is interested I will be happy to post more info about the car.
Info on the Camry? Thanks man.
 

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The Canadian Prick.
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I just got home from a training course in Edmonton. Had a shiny new Bimmerfest shirt waiting for me!

THANKS DON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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i dunno....i have turned a lot of engines over by hand and had binding from various parts interfering. nothing ever broke like that. the teeth of a gear like that are way harder and stout, so i do not see how multiple teeth (from what i can tell in the pic) would have sheared off as described.

unless you're superman.....:eeps:



alex, glad that you have the Miata on the road. enjoy!! :thumbup:







df
 

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Info on the Camry? Thanks man.
It's a 2002 silver Toyota Camry with a proper manual transmission and about 230,000 miles on it. My mom bought it new back in 02 and proceeded to neglect on oil changes so it currently burns oil. I never kept track of exactly how much oil it burns, I just keep a quart in the back and fill it up occasionally. Because it burns oil the engine fouls the spark plugs and causes it to misfire underload at low rpm. I put new plugs in every oil change to fix this issue. The catalytic converter has been dying for like five years now. If you driver for more than an hour and a half on the highway the check engine light will come on for the cat. A few days of normal driving makes the light go off, so if never had an issue passing inspection. The clutch engages fairly close to the floor. This has been going on since I can remember. I am tall enough that it doesn't bother me but my aunt Lee finds it annoying. The starter on it died last year, so I replaced it. It works great now. There is a design flaw in the Camry that exposes the rear cover of the rear wheel bearings to moisture. They have a tendency to rust out and let water get in the bearings which causes the bearings to fail. It has been through three wheel bearings in its life. I recently change the driver side rear wheel bearing and the car comes with a brand-new passenger-side rear wheel bearing that I was unable to install. The passenger-side wheel bearings fine I just normally like to replace them in pairs. However I gave up after the driver side bearing was very difficult to get off and the passenger side was proving even more difficult. The rear tires are shot, but the fronts are fine. I hit a deer in it so the hood is bent in the AC condenser broke so there is no AC. I put a new headlight in and it is now perfectly road legal. The hood still works and latches properly, no need for bungee cords or anything like that. That's everything I can think of, I don't think I left anything out. Tomorrow in the light, I can take some pictures of how it looks right now.

Edit: Just remembered the rear passenger side window does not go down.
 

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i dunno....i have turned a lot of engines over by hand and had binding from various parts interfering. nothing ever broke like that. the teeth of a gear like that are way harder and stout, so i do not see how multiple teeth (from what i can tell in the pic) would have sheared off as described.



unless you're superman.....:eeps:

df

But I can't fly.

The chain binded and instead of turning the other direction I pulled on it. Hoping nothing else broke (fingers crossed) but on a closer look ira made of a different material as the camshafts and lower chain sprockets.

Unless they broke when the car was last turned on (before I did the compression and took head off) since the broken teeth were sitting in the timing cover.


ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1453064046.271387.jpg
This is much better, not a brand name hoist someone just painted it red but underneath the paint you can see its a HF 2Ton hoist. The load leveler is mine, bought it just for this and will come in handy in other stuff.

I'm stopping there because all of a sudden ... snow.
ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1453064180.064088.jpg
 

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Insane in the membrane!
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I read the description twice and says you only get software you need to buy the cables separate.
View attachment 546311
View attachment 546312
What you are paying for is an automated process to install free software, for that price you can buy an ADS/OBD interface, I have a TinyADS for my OBDI E36.

I just bought and will be testing an ADS/OBD interface, highly recommended by the guys that compiled the installation instructions. A few buck more than the software suite.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1435617-ADS-INPA-interface
http://www.repairdynamics.com/Rv8flyboy_Review.pdf

Buy from here:
http://www.interfaces4beemers.net
I need to buy something so I can connect a laptop to the connection under my hood so I can start reading and clearing my codes, as in ALL codes including ABS and Traction Control. I have OBD2 and I need software as well. What would you all recommend? What is my cheapest option?
 

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I need to buy something so I can connect a laptop to the connection under my hood so I can start reading and clearing my codes, as in ALL codes including ABS and Traction Control. I have OBD2 and I need software as well. What would you all recommend? What is my cheapest option?

ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1453079951.494226.jpg
ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1453079961.728683.jpg
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f99/bmw-inpa-e36-obd-obd2-ads-interfaces-explained-t85191/#/forumsite/21085/topics/85191?page=1

What's also important is the software, I'd go INPA hands down, if you feel up to the challenge install GT1. INPA is enough to read and clear the codes from all modules, I find it easy to use and it's somewhat quick, GT1 runs much slower but also does coding.

As far as cable a TinyADS should work for you. I have it as well as Andy (username Engel) you can buy the board with terminals for $30ish or a fully assembled board with cable $50-60.

I'm going to try another ADS/OBD switchable interface soon, it lets me use either the 20 pin round connector or the 16 pin OBD connector, the one I linked to from Rv8flyboy.

Keep in mind that both of these need a computer with a real serial port (looks like the VGA connector found in old monitors), I bought an old Dell D620 and did a fresh Windows XP install just for this. Some have tried a serial to USB adapter but results vary.

I think another option is the orange ADS/OBD interface from do-it auto (from Germany) $120 iirc.

I'd say from getting a laptop and depending on the cable you choose you're looking at $100-200. And remember the software is free for download.


Here's an example of INPA using a TinyADS connector, read and cleared ABS codes.
These were all the ABS codes at first
ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1453076105.512580.jpg
Cleared and these two remained.
ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1453076174.809911.jpg
Now I fixed the brake pedal travel sensor and the ABS light turned off in my IC.

This is a screenshot of how GT1 looks, you install it as a virtual machine.
ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1453076353.683447.jpg
 

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I got photos of the Camry now. You can see them here on Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157662958905189. Also, I changed the oil and put new spark plugs in it today. The wheel on the back are staying with me. I have the stock rims that I will put on it before I sell it. The ones on the back are a part of a set of snow tires that will be going on my mom's current car.
 

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Insane in the membrane!
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View attachment 546657
View attachment 546658
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f99/bmw-inpa-e36-obd-obd2-ads-interfaces-explained-t85191/#/forumsite/21085/topics/85191?page=1

What's also important is the software, I'd go INPA hands down, if you feel up to the challenge install GT1. INPA is enough to read and clear the codes from all modules, I find it easy to use and it's somewhat quick, GT1 runs much slower but also does coding.

As far as cable a TinyADS should work for you. I have it as well as Andy (username Engel) you can buy the board with terminals for $30ish or a fully assembled board with cable $50-60.

I'm going to try another ADS/OBD switchable interface soon, it lets me use either the 20 pin round connector or the 16 pin OBD connector, the one I linked to from Rv8flyboy.

Keep in mind that both of these need a computer with a real serial port (looks like the VGA connector found in old monitors), I bought an old Dell D620 and did a fresh Windows XP install just for this. Some have tried a serial to USB adapter but results vary.

I think another option is the orange ADS/OBD interface from do-it auto (from Germany) $120 iirc.

I'd say from getting a laptop and depending on the cable you choose you're looking at $100-200. And remember the software is free for download.


Here's an example of INPA using a TinyADS connector, read and cleared ABS codes.
These were all the ABS codes at first
View attachment 546648
Cleared and these two remained.
View attachment 546649
Now I fixed the brake pedal travel sensor and the ABS light turned off in my IC.

This is a screenshot of how GT1 looks, you install it as a virtual machine.
View attachment 546650
Thanks for the fantastic reply! I think I have an old laptop with a serial port handy, and I have 0 interest in using the OBD2 port inside the car. Can you link me to where I can get this TinyADS thing I need?

"As far as cable a TinyADS should work for you. I have it as well as Andy (username Engel) you can buy the board with terminals for $30ish or a fully assembled board with cable $50-60. "
 

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Insane in the membrane!
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Oh and this is interesting, apparently E36's have this, 64116917001. But I can't actually find any pictures or diagrams for an E36 to show where it would be located.
 

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Thanks for the fantastic reply! I think I have an old laptop with a serial port handy, and I have 0 interest in using the OBD2 port inside the car. Can you link me to where I can get this TinyADS thing I need?



"As far as cable a TinyADS should work for you. I have it as well as Andy (username Engel) you can buy the board with terminals for $30ish or a fully assembled board with cable $50-60. "

TinyADS board with terminals
http://openlabs.co/store/Tiny-ADS-Interface

Complete TinyADS with cable.
http://openlabs.co/store/Tiny-ADS-Interface-inside-20-pin-connector

If you don't plan to run your own wires then I suggest the complete assembly.

I don't know if you want to wait for me to evaluate the ADS/OBD interface I just bought and get this one instead.
http://www.interfaces4beemers.net/adsobd.html
It's available either as built or kit form. The kit form needs to be assemble and requires a bit of soldering. I bought the kit form because I like to assemble it and can solder this no problem.



On a side note I found a way to make GT1 run faster, turns out I had let the virtual machine set how much RAM used (16MB) bumped it to 256MB (this is the least recommended) and ran much quicker.

This is a guide for INPA install only, if you only want to read and erase codes stick to this.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=290834&d=1314610775

And this is a guide for INPA and GT1, not for the faint of heart.
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/7sf/diagnostic_codes/bmw-gt1-dis-install-831k.pdf


When you install INPA go to C:\Ediabas\Hardware. From there go to each ADS and OBD folders and click on the ADS and OBD setup files (. exe)
Then go to same C:\Ediabas\Bin and click on a file "Ediabas. ini" (notepad with a gear on top) here you change the interface to ADS. This tells INPA what communication to use (serial)
ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1453141303.461099.jpg
Here you can see where you need to make the change. I made a shortcut of the file to the desktop so you see how it looks.

When you save it and open INPA (_. IPO) and press F1 you should see ADS in interface and you're good to go.
 

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Santa
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Anyone interested in an s50 motor 188k miles runs like a top. Tons of receipts/maintenance done my zip is 14141. $1200.00 picked up! :D
 

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Derek, are you still interested in the Camry or should I just toss it on CL.
 

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Santa
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Sorry I forgot to get back to you yeah you can throw It on cl I didn't know that the mileage was that high sorry. Thanks though.
 

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Sorry I forgot to get back to you yeah you can throw It on cl I didn't know that the mileage was that high sorry. Thanks though.
I Love after everything I said about the car, its the mileage that gets you :rofl:.
 

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Jesse Moon Bayne
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We may get a ton of snow here Friday thru Saturday!
 
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