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The work is done- IE bushings and Plates

1548 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  TeamM3
I would like to get back to all of you who were interested in my project this past week.

The car is back together, and it feels better than ever. I can't report on it performance aspects since we are iced over here in Northern NJ..but around town, over RR tracks, a few pumps and whoop-d-do's..the car feels dramatically different.

She's "-toight".....to quote fat bastard!

I had the IE Sub Chassis Bushings installed along with IE trailing arm busings- no squeaks from the polyeu :thumbup: rathane

I had off set poly A arm bushing installed up front..no squeaks ( can't comment on response since I have conti's and the roads are icy- still :p )

I had the camber / toe plates welded in. Big job...whole sub chassis has to come out. Expect to pay for some labor hours on this one. But you want it done right. Alignement was spot on to specs, althought the adjustment bolts for the trailing arm plates are not easy to get too. Speaking of alignement- go for TC K or similar front strut mount plates, the K macs are difficult to understnd when you look at them.


I installed a 15mm spring pad- car sits perfect now. If you have HR and your car looks like it is squatting- you may have the 5mm from the factory.

I installed the steering rack bump stops from Turner. Barely lost any noticeable radius, and I don't crunch my brake hose any more. Highly recommend this if you have back plated cooling your disks. If you don't ..get them if your loosing your pedal after 15 minutes on the track. Much cheaper mod than Brembo.

I installed the Super Sprints enhaust. Unfortunately the quality of both mufflers is not the same. One has a slightly bent pipe at the weld. This makes fitment an issue with the butt strut. After hours of play - still a slight bang on butt strut under acceleration. I think the strut comes out for street driving. This is with using both supplied washers to gain clearance.

That is it for now
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I thought the M already had hard bushings on the front suspension components. Are you still using the stock swaybar links?

I've got my IE bushings sitting out in the garage, and now that I've got my SES light issue resolved, the car goes to the local specialist for the sub-frame work. I didn't even think about the trailing-arm bushings... now I'm wondering if I should hold off until I can get those.

Was the work you had done itemized? I was quoted $500 for the adjustable subframe work, and that includes alignment. I'm not sure what extra (or if) they'll charge to install the bushings yet.
Unless RD provides stronger links with the kit, and my recolection is that my kit did, I have not upgraded them separately. I have the 27mm front and 22 mm rear bars. I have re-enforced the connection points on the sub chassis. That appears to be a weak spot. My feelings have been that the stock rubber, are a compromise for streetability vs performance Thought to sell cars that drop fillings from the test drivers mouth. Afterall- although it is an M series car, they are selling a road going car.
I try to avoid too stiff..thats no good either since the car is driven on poor roads much of the time, but somewhere between the stock suspension peices and all metal bushings is a hppy place for me.

[/QUOTE]
I've got my IE bushings sitting out in the garage, and now that I've got my SES light issue resolved, the car goes to the local specialist for the sub-frame work. I didn't even think about the trailing-arm bushings... now I'm wondering if I should hold off until I can get those.[/QUOTE]
Considering how much work is involved in getting that sub chassis out, I think its worth while to do as much as you can bite off at a time. The TA bushing are cheap and IE will send them out immediately.

Was the work you had done itemized? I was quoted $500 for the adjustable subframe work, and that includes alignment. I'm not sure what extra (or if) they'll charge to install the bushings yet.[/QUOTE]

I can't speak for CA prices, but NYC area rates are a bit steep. $500 sounds very reasonable. Although I did not get an itemizaed bill, I would think thats a bit lower than what I paid for the brackets.

A good 4 wheel alighnement arount her can cost 125 to 200 alone.
Drop sub chassis , weld, prime / paint and re install-I would think 4 hours easy remember you are getting the car on the lift, removing rear calipers, exhaust,and entire subchassis- at $85 to $100 bucks an hour- you have another $340 to $400.

If your shop has the bushing removal kit he may not charge you much to remove and replace them. If he does not, he will break a sweat and charge you a couple hours work.

I think the problem we face when we are dealing with after market items, is fitment. Although the stuff works well, it takes some massaging to get right. That takes time.
The Super Sprint install alone takes a good hour or so to look right..then you test drive and bang it hits the butt strut :mad:

Short of it is, car has 50K miles on it. Car feels better than new on the road.
Motor mounts will go in- then when I need the services of Randy-I'll do the dual ear diff and replace those. Other than that I think all bushings are replaced ( can any one think of something else?).

Don't rush to get job done and have to go back in cause you missed something small that might provide big gains. I think the TA bushings would be worth the wait- just for the "its trick" factor alone :thumbup:
Daver said:
I thought the M already had hard bushings on the front suspension components. Are you still using the stock swaybar links?
you know your a forum addict when-

you respond to your own posts !

Offset front A arm bushings are much nicer than I thought. Steering response is instantaneous. Plus they look trick.

Turns out mechanic did not use both spacers from butt strut when he re -installed the bar. He thought the thread depth was too short. I added the spacers as Paul from Strong Strut recommended - and I have ample room now.

I get a tap here and there in the most extreme bumps, but I can live with it.
Which bushings are you using? The red polyurethane ones sold by a number of places?

Has anyone bought the Treehouse Racing holders/bushings for our cars? TeamM3 posted about them a long while back. I've not gotten a response from Treehouse about the amount of offset.
Bushings & Mounts

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Powerflex Front Control Arm Bushings
Powerflex Urethane bushings are made from quality materials and designed to enhance handling while maintaining a quality ride. They are a must for street and track upgrades.
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Powerflex E30 / E36 Front Control Arm Bushings - Offset
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dwm said:
Which bushings are you using? The red polyurethane ones sold by a number of places?

Has anyone bought the Treehouse Racing holders/bushings for our cars? TeamM3 posted about them a long while back. I've not gotten a response from Treehouse about the amount of offset.
it's the absolute maximum you can get, more than the other bushings in the OE mount can achieve :dunno: you'll get more caster as a result

http://www.treehouseracing.com/

there are several out now that use spherical heim bearings, but you can't get as much offset as the Treehouse mounts, some people make up for this by tweaking the control arm to achieve the same thing

http://www.roadracetech.com/performance_catalog/products/suspension.asp
dwm said:
Has anyone bought the Treehouse Racing holders/bushings for our cars? TeamM3 posted about them a long while back. I've not gotten a response from Treehouse about the amount of offset.
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