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Well maybe Clemster on the M5 board can help out with an engine and other stuff lol.

7 is the average?! How cheap are these cars lol? So what 7 do you have specifically?


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Very... the most expensive in my collection was $400
I once got a ‘95 850 for free. And it was advertised on Craigslist for free! I was just lucky my cousin was the first to call him that morning. Then a drivable ‘98 S90 for $100. That was a nice car for the price... wish I still had it at times.
Granted, the only one I drove home was the 940 turbo (not counting the S60 I traded to my brother and my mom’s XC90) but they are ridiculously cheap to buy.

‘00 V70R $300 (bought with a bad trans, manual swapped, and at this point have replaced/upgraded literally just about everything)
‘00 S70 GLT $375 (needed a head gasket which turned into way more, just dropped an engine in it yesterday that I had refreshed with a new timing belt, oil pan seals, PCV, etc. and got it running tonight)
‘91 940 Turbo $400 (just needs some basic stuff, drives pretty well)
‘92 240 wagon $325 (half the engine is in the garage)
‘93 940 $250 (runs and drives fine after a trans fluid change, seller thought it had a bad trans)
Then the others...
‘03 S60 2.4T... this one I picked up for $1k and drove it home, seller lives right down the road from me in another subdivision. Only had 106k miles and needed a cam seal.
‘07 XC90 V8 Sport $6,300... the only one that was around book value!



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Very... the most expensive in my collection was $400
I once got a ‘95 850 for free. And it was advertised on Craigslist for free! I was just lucky my cousin was the first to call him that morning. Then a drivable ‘98 S90 for $100. That was a nice car for the price... wish I still had it at times.
Granted, the only one I drove home was the 940 turbo (not counting the S60 I traded to my brother and my mom’s XC90) but they are ridiculously cheap to buy.

‘00 V70R $300 (bought with a bad trans, manual swapped, and at this point have replaced/upgraded literally just about everything)
‘00 S70 GLT $375 (needed a head gasket which turned into way more, just dropped an engine in it yesterday that I had refreshed with a new timing belt, oil pan seals, PCV, etc. and got it running tonight)
‘91 940 Turbo $400 (just needs some basic stuff, drives pretty well)
‘92 240 wagon $325 (half the engine is in the garage)
‘93 940 $250 (runs and drives fine after a trans fluid change, seller thought it had a bad trans)
Then the others...
‘03 S60 2.4T... this one I picked up for $1k and drove it home, seller lives right down the road from me in another subdivision. Only had 106k miles and needed a cam seal.
‘07 XC90 V8 Sport $6,300... the only one that was around book value!



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Good choices. I've always had a soft spot for the old volvo's. Maybe someday I might get one. But that'll be a ways down lol.

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Well I got the GM3 module today and swapped it in half hour ago. Good news is that the wipers, courtesy lights, trunk switch, and door locks work again, along with the central locking button on the center console. Downside is that the alarm still won't set. The lights will blink when you lock/unlock the door. But there's no audible beep sound and the light in the clown nose doesn't blink. Also I can't program the key to the new module.

Electrics suck ass! Lol

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That reminds me, the alarm doesn't seem to be functioning in the E83. No beep/lights or clown nose flashing when I lock or unlock. I'm pretty sure it has an alarm, I heard my dad set it off the other day while playing with the key.
Anyone know if PA Soft 1.4 works on the E83? I feel like I need the newer scanner.
 

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That reminds me, the alarm doesn't seem to be functioning in the E83. No beep/lights or clown nose flashing when I lock or unlock. I'm pretty sure it has an alarm, I heard my dad set it off the other day while playing with the key.
Anyone know if PA Soft 1.4 works on the E83? I feel like I need the newer scanner.
 

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We replaced the expansion tank, upper rad hose, and belts today on the X3 and I'm still seeing coolant on the ground. Hopefully it's residual coolant from the leak! There was a lot down there before, plus there was some spillage during the filling/bleeding procedure.
The thing drives great though... as much as I bi*tch about SUVs, there are some that are done right... the X3/X5 are great to drive!
 

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Long day. Tried to do more problem solving with the damn central locking fuse #53 blowing. I literally disconnected as much stuff as I could that could possibly be a culprit including the fuel door and trunk actuators. All door actuators, the hood sensor, central locking switch, the motion sensor in the headliner, both antenna amplifiers in c-pillars, the drivers door master switch panel, the other black box in the front passenger door, almost everything except for the recently installed GM module. And NONE of it made a difference. Damn fuse still blows before it's even seated....F**K IT!! I'll deal with the s**t another time lol.

When putting stuff back together I decided to solder the wires for the illuminated door handles into the wires they were crimped into for a cleaner look. Much better. Also replaced the timing chain tensioner. Stupid easy and took maybe 8mins tops. That first start up with the rattling startled me but quickly went away. Car sounds slightly more quiet. Still the dumb diesel rattle noise from the VANOS but eventually I'll get to it. I still need to do the o-ring seals. But later on I may do the upgraded gears from Dr. VANOS that is supposed to all but eliminate the diesel noise.

Next up?....ugh god I don't know, too much s**t to do lol.

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Replaced DSC Module with used one and reprogrammed it with NCSexpert. I followed one of the many postings on how to do it. Worked like a charm.
 

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Long day. Tried to do more problem solving with the damn central locking fuse #53 blowing. I literally disconnected as much stuff as I could that could possibly be a culprit including the fuel door and trunk actuators. All door actuators, the hood sensor, central locking switch, the motion sensor in the headliner, both antenna amplifiers in c-pillars, the drivers door master switch panel, the other black box in the front passenger door, almost everything except for the recently installed GM module. And NONE of it made a difference. Damn fuse still blows before it's even seated....F**K IT!! I'll deal with the s**t another time lol...

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Before putting another fuse in measure the resistance to ground (from cold side of fuse holder). I'm guessing here but it sounds like a wire is shorted to ground, if so I'd start where the harness flexes like doors and trunk.

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Before putting another fuse in measure the resistance to ground (from cold side of fuse holder). I'm guessing here but it sounds like a wire is shorted to ground, if so I'd start where the harness flexes like doors and trunk.

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How do I measure that? And which side is the cold side. I have a craftsman digital multimeter that I got super cheap from a local sears before they shut down for good. Been wanting to put that to use lol.

I did repair some frayed wires in the trunk harness awhile back. Might be some more that I didn't catch before. I going to do some stuff to the trunk lid soon and redo the vapor barriers along with getting all new door panel clips. Will have to check those as well. I might just pull the whole trunk wire harness and give it a thorough go over.

I'm also hoping to go through all the chassis grounds this weekend. Clean them up and check for any damaged wires. Going to remove the passenger seat and check the fuse panel underneath the carpet too.

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How do I measure that? And which side is the cold side. I have a craftsman digital multimeter that I got super cheap from a local sears before they shut down for good. Been wanting to put that to use lol.

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Start by measuring the voltage from both sides of the fuse holder to ground. 12V will be the hot side and the other side should be 0V. Measure resistance from the 0V side to ground. Do NOT use the meter set for resistance (ohms) on a live circuit - aka the 12V side!

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Well... we overheated the X3 a little bit while driving it back from the gas station. It seems the little coupler piece below the expansion tank is cracked or something, it was spraying out hard from the connection.
It's ridiculous... it took overheating it to find the damn leak! My dad was convinced it was all residual coolant that was dripping, but I knew it couldn't be. Hopefully it'll be the last time the coolant has to be drained for a while.

If only he listened to me and just replaced EVERYTHING in the first place... hopefully there wasn't any severe damage! It ran fine still after it cooled off back to normal temperature, so I have high hopes.

Start by measuring the voltage from both sides of the fuse holder to ground. 12V will be the hot side and the other side should be 0V. Measure resistance from the 0V side to ground. Do NOT use the meter set for resistance (ohms) on a live circuit - aka the 12V side!

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Yeah don't do that. I learned that the hard way when I forgot it was still set on resistance rather than voltage... it makes some cool sparks!
 

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Hello guys, can anyone here help me determine the lug pattern of some wheels that I picked up?

Supposedly they were on a Ferrari 550, but no proof was given. A google search shows that 550's have bolt pattern 5x108 which is almost 4.25"

Now I measure the bolt pattern with a measuring tape and it looks closer to 4 3/8". That's roughly 5x111.xx mm.. That's dead between 5x110 and 5x112mm which are both common-found lug patterns. So how do I know what pattern it is exactly?
 

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Hello guys, can anyone here help me determine the lug pattern of some wheels that I picked up?

Supposedly they were on a Ferrari 550, but no proof was given. A google search shows that 550's have bolt pattern 5x108 which is almost 4.25"

Now I measure the bolt pattern with a measuring tape and it looks closer to 4 3/8". That's roughly 5x111.xx mm.. That's dead between 5x110 and 5x112mm which are both common-found lug patterns. So how do I know what pattern it is exactly?
This should help, if in doubt, take them to a rim shop and they should have the correct measuring tool.

https://www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/bolt-pattern?ef_id=Cj0KCQiAmsrxBRDaARIsANyiD1r04alyErIcmQZ2Ndk-NApJ5OjsTO2TmplaZkweTxkbwJRjdIa8zbYaAsk9EALw_wcB:G:s&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmsrxBRDaARIsANyiD1r04alyErIcmQZ2Ndk-NApJ5OjsTO2TmplaZkweTxkbwJRjdIa8zbYaAsk9EALw_wcB&ef_id=XjNyFAAAAXi8r42o:20200131001724:s
 

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I take it there's no stamp on them? Typically Ferrari uses 5x108, same bolt pattern that Volvo uses. That's why people like to use Ferrari wheels on Volvos lol.

According to this link it's indeed 5x108.
 

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Welp, I guess replacing the fuses with the correct ones for the audio didn't work. Sound cut out again from the front passenger door speaker. Speaker is ok, I've narrowed it down to the radio module itself. I'll get it fixed later on.

I replaced the license plate bulbs with spare LED lights from the ECS Ziza interior lighting kit that I had from my old 540i. Just the right brightness like new BMW's have. And best of all, no error messages

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thanks for the chart, but i familiar with the different sizes and their conversions. I might need to do like you mentioned with some measuring tool.

I take it there's no stamp on them? Typically Ferrari uses 5x108, same bolt pattern that Volvo uses. That's why people like to use Ferrari wheels on Volvos lol.

According to this link it's indeed 5x108.
Correct, no stamps.. Which i always wondered why they don't stamp the pattern on the backs. It's just as important as offsets and rim size tbh.

Maybe if i can find a buddy who has a Volvo and compare the lug patterns.. That is probably best
 

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Correct, no stamps.. Which i always wondered why they don't stamp the pattern on the backs. It's just as important as offsets and rim size tbh.

Maybe if i can find a buddy who has a Volvo and compare the lug patterns.. That is probably best
That would probably be best, unless a tire shop has that gauge. I'd offer one of mine if you were closer, I have 7 Volvos lol.
 

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That would probably be best, unless a tire shop has that gauge. I'd offer one of mine if you were closer, I have 7 Volvos lol.
Thank you for your kind offer, I'm sure I can get access to either a Volvo or gauge this weekend. I'm actually considering buying a lug pattern measuring tool since I continuously buy/sell wheels throughout the year, so it is an handy tool to have around.

For those who are interested to know what wheels, they are 19" Cargraphic wheels. Super rare (and expensive) in the states from what I understand. I tried to fab up the front wheel on my e39 last night and this will need extensive work to make work on the wagon unfortunately. I will probably end up selling them since I am not up for that much work.

Front: 19x9 et55 :)yikes:)
Rear: 19x11 et33
 

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