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Discussion Starter #1
I recently learned this, and did it to my car today--the difference was dramatic.

Your engine computer programs your throttle response to fit your driving habits, so over time the car may lose the instant, aggressive throttle response it had from the factory. If you drive conservatively, the throttle eventually responds less aggressively. (And you will drive that way if you live in congested LA, or someplace similar, where you can't drive the way you want.) So try this if you want the throttle response restored to the more aggressive factory setting:

1) Press the pedal to the floor and keep it there until step 6 below.

2) Then insert the key.

3) Then turn the key to position "2". Position "2" is one position before the car engages and starts.

4) Wait 10 seconds and then turn the key back to position "0", which is the initial position.

5) Once again wait 10 seconds.

6) Then release the pedal.

7) Then press the pedal down and start the car up.

You should now have your throttle response reset. Your driving pattern from this point on will dictate how your throttle response adapts. If traffic congestion in your area forces you to drive conservatively a lot of the time, then over time your throttle response will once again become lacking, and you'll need to perform another reset (apparently once every 1-3 months, according to what I've read--I did this too recently to know for sure).

(This topic was covered several posts into another thread; I'm summarizing it again here so it will be easier for E46 owners to find. I don't know whether this exact procedure works on other BMWs, but I've heard that this--or something like it--does.)
 

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We need a "WFO" button ! :bigpimp:
 

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Thanks for this!! Just tried it and I think it worked. Can definitely a better response.

Edit: John, I saw you have the pedalbox throttle signal amplifier, I have a similar product. However, when I use it I get the EML light a complete loss of power. Not sure what can be causing this and I can not scan it as the vehicle is running. Any thoughts what could be causing it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for this!! Just tried it and I think it worked. Can definitely a better response.

Edit: John, I saw you have the pedalbox throttle signal amplifier, I have a similar product. However, when I use it I get the EML light a complete loss of power. Not sure what can be causing this and I can not scan it as the vehicle is running. Any thoughts what could be causing it?
Hmm, I have no idea... I haven't had any lights come on. Is yours the sprint booster? Maybe it reacts differently to this than the pedalbox does.
 

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Hmm, I have no idea... I haven't had any lights come on. Is yours the sprint booster? Maybe it reacts differently to this than the pedalbox does.
It worked fine before just all of a sudden I get it. I can't find a help thread because I don't even know what to google LOL
 

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My guess is the box broke. Don't they have a one year warranty?
It's not the exact same one but same functions. Paid quite a bit for it. Wires and everything still fine. Really strange, because I warrantied it out and didn't do that before but now it does. Stopped using it
 

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Unfortunately, these are just little black boxes of small electronics. If something fries, it it toast. If there is no warranty you are out of luck. I suppose you could open it and see if there is a loose wire...
I had a bad Racechip throttle control (similar to pedalbox) and it kept causing limp mode and cels. The dealer even replaced the throttle pedal once, not believing a box could cause the problem. I bought used, so no warranty. Now I have a pedalbox and it works fine. I haven't opened the Racechip, someday maybe, but I doubt I will find anything repairable, so I haven't put the effort in.
 

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Unfortunately, these are just little black boxes of small electronics. If something fries, it it toast. If there is no warranty you are out of luck. I suppose you could open it and see if there is a loose wire...
I had a bad Racechip throttle control (similar to pedalbox) and it kept causing limp mode and cels. The dealer even replaced the throttle pedal once, not believing a box could cause the problem. I bought used, so no warranty. Now I have a pedalbox and it works fine. I haven't opened the Racechip, someday maybe, but I doubt I will find anything repairable, so I haven't put the effort in.
Havent used it in forever. It is just sitting in my car, tried using it after forever and it turned on fine and everything. But AFTER warranting out the old one (the wires ripped) it started giving me the EML, and I have no idea why.
 

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Just one question on your process. Do I understand step 7 in that you start the car with the accelerator pedal to the floor? Is that a good idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just one question on your process. Do I understand step 7 in that you start the car with the accelerator pedal to the floor? Is that a good idea?
No, at step 7 just press gently, in the normal way.
 

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Seems like there's a lot of little hidden procedures like this on these cars. GM reset procedure, key-programming procedure, secret OBC menu. . . I wonder if there's a single post where they're all in one place.
 

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Seems like there's a lot of little hidden procedures like this on these cars. GM reset procedure, key-programming procedure, secret OBC menu. . . I wonder if there's a single post where they're all in one place.
Yeah, it hadn't occurred to me, but maybe things like this should be in the Wiki.
 

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Seems like there's a lot of little hidden procedures like this on these cars. GM reset procedure, key-programming procedure, secret OBC menu. . . I wonder if there's a single post where they're all in one place.
Yes, there is nothing that has not been discussed in great detail about these cars. I hate to say this but SEARCH and you will find. Search this forum, wiki, E46 fanatics, other bmw boards, google, Youtube. Its ALL there! I rarely ask questions anymore because most of them have already been answered.

Good luck
 

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I recently learned this, and did it to my car today--the difference was dramatic.

Your engine computer programs your throttle response to fit your driving habits, so over time the car may lose the instant, aggressive throttle response it had from the factory. If you drive conservatively, the throttle eventually responds less aggressively. (And you will drive that way if you live in congested LA, or someplace similar, where you can't drive the way you want.) So try this if you want the throttle response restored to the more aggressive factory setting:

1) Press the pedal to the floor and keep it there until step 6 below.

2) Then insert the key.

3) Then turn the key to position "2". Position "2" is one position before the car engages and starts.

4) Wait 10 seconds and then turn the key back to position "0", which is the initial position.

5) Once again wait 10 seconds.

6) Then release the pedal.

7) Then press the pedal down and start the car up.

You should now have your throttle response reset. Your driving pattern from this point on will dictate how your throttle response adapts. If traffic congestion in your area forces you to drive conservatively a lot of the time, then over time your throttle response will once again become lacking, and you'll need to perform another reset (apparently once every 1-3 months, according to what I've read--I did this too recently to know for sure).

(This topic was covered several posts into another thread; I'm summarizing it again here so it will be easier for E46 owners to find. I don't know whether this exact procedure works on other BMWs, but I've heard that this--or something like it--does.)
Would this work for an M3 after a tune was done to it? I was told the previous owner of my vehicle had the car tuned to be more aggressive but i've been driving it lightly for the past 2 months. (Gas is expensive!)
 

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Would this work for an M3 after a tune was done to it? I was told the previous owner of my vehicle had the car tuned to be more aggressive but i've been driving it lightly for the past 2 months. (Gas is expensive!)
Yes it should work on an M3 even if a tune was done.

Unless you changed your entire DME to an aftermarket one... then in which case no it won't work.
 
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