[PJB.]

I just changed my outer covers last week, so I think I can help here.

"Is this black box with pins part of the cover or is it a separate part to order?"
The black box is a separate part independent of the cover. Personally, I would try the plug first before even considering ordering the black electrical box. Electronics in our cars are insanely expensive, and the cost for that part may very well be close to the cost for a used driver's seat that would come with that part, and more.

Which color would you get? Is it "grau"?
You would get grau, yes. However, notice that your seat cover is scratched and the white plastic is showing through. My grau seat covers were in a similar condition and fixing the cosmetic defect was the genesis of my replacement effort. I would suggest getting schwarz (black, BMW part #52 10 7 058 008), because black will hide the future scratches that are inevitable. This is possible because the black seat covers are made of black ABS plastic and not painted, thus a scratch will not take off paint and expose an off-color base material.

Some tips, since you asked:
- The seat control buttons simply pop off, but are held on very securely. It's nerve wracking, but they're just on there tight.
- The seat covers themselves are each held on with two Torx screws and three plastic rivets. Again, the plastic rivets are in very tight and will likely necessitate destruction for removal. These rivets create a lot of frustration. Replacement plastic rivets are sold in sets of six (BMW part#52 10 8 150 020) and are markedly inexpensive, so I would urge you to get these as well.
- The seat covers are sold in a set of two, and come with one out of six holes filled in with a button cover. Since you have the "basic" electric seat like I do, your controls will fill three more holes, so if you wish to change colors you'll need to purchase the final two button covers, which curiously enough come with two each of the button covers that already come with the seat covers. If you purchase the seat covers and the button covers, you'll end up with two extra button covers per side. Now I'm not sure if this was an idiosyncrasy with my dealer, but a set of seat covers came with two - one for the driver and one for the passenger - while a set of button covers was for only one side. I needed to order an additional set of button covers. To summarize, I purchased one set of seat covers and two sets of button covers. This will fill in all of the holes with four identical button covers to spare. I have leftover buttons in both grau and schwarz, as well as the passenger's side seat cover. If you wish I can sell them to you for a dollar or two over what it will cost me to ship them.

To remove the rivets and the control buttons, I would highly recommend interior trim panel tools. I acquired the first two of the following three sets from Harbor Freight Tools for about five dollars each. The set of yellow tools is particularly durable and desirable and has proven to be worth much more than the asking price to me:



If you need more information, please see the following thread in which these seat covers are discussed ad nauseum:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=842536

 

[PJB.]

^^ What sidneyj said. If you'll notice, the separate part numbers have been superceded by newer ones, meaning that they used to be sold individually but are now sold as a set. If you re-read post #6 of mine, you should note that while a set of outer covers includes both a driver and passenger side, a set of the requisite buttons is for only one side.

I was as confused as you are when I was about to order the outer covers for my 2000 528i, and a little apprehensive on purchasing a part without knowing absolutely that it would be the right one, but it worked out. Take it from someone who has done it and who has the same car and seats as you.

If you want them in grey, get both sides from sidneyj or the passenger's side from me (though I'm not sure why you would want just the one). The part number for both sides in grey is 52 10 7 058 009. If you want black, you'll want to purchase part #52 10 7 058 009. Again, be sure to get a set of six rivets - BMW part#52 10 8 150 020 - so you can replace any broken ones.

 

[PJB.]

That might've been true 50 years ago, but it's 2008.

 

[PJB.]

I'm not sure I understand this comment because plastics didn't exist 50 years ago.

To clarify, I meant the underlying plastic under the black paint of the BMW seat is black.

But, the underlying plastic under the gray skin of the gray paint of the BMW seat is white. Likewise, I believe, with the tan skin.

So, when the tan or gray seats scratch, which all of them do, the scratch shows up as a white streak whereas the black scratches show up as black and hence are not onerous.

Everything you said is true, and I fully agree.

Black won't scratch white, 50 years ago... all of that... thems was jokes! I was humorously commenting on racial and social issues plauging our nation, and their propagation to today and likely, sadly, beyond.

 

[PJB.]

Also, when I buy the new part, how do I pop out that black rectangular box with the controls in it? Does it just pop out?

I already answered your question in a previous post of mine:

Some tips, since you asked:
- The seat control buttons simply pop off, but are held on very securely. It's nerve wracking, but they're just on there tight. Pop the buttons off, then on the inside of the frame, gently bend the plastic clips holding the control unit in order to remove it.

 

[PJB.]

I have the same problem. Went to the BMW dealer and if I wanted a replacement I had to pay for the set, not just the one I needed. This was sometime last year and they were in stock. Reading above I see they are no longer; just didn't want to pay that much for needing only one.

If you need only one, and it's the passenger's side in gray, I have it. If you need both, then sidneyj has both sides in gray and he'll probably get them to you for less than the dealer wants.

 

[PJB.]

I'm 99% sure all connectors can only go on one way. Even if you broke a tab it still should only come togther one way. Don't force anything. Look at the the pins closely and or wire colors and match it up.

I'm with sidneyj, inside and out, from the engine to the undercarriage and interior, I've encountered a bevy of parts that fit correctly in only one orientation.

 

[PJB.]

Bluebee, while I applaud your ostensible efforts at accuracy, I have to wonder how much inefficiency is involved sometimes, seeing has how the things you "notice" were already covered in my admittedly wordy post #6, and I answered - for a second time - a different question of yours in post #16.

Notice that only one hole (a rectangular one) has a plug; the rest are open.

- The seat covers are sold in a set of two, and come with one out of six holes filled in with a button cover.

Also notice (scratch the inside to see) that this is white plastic painted gray.

Which color would you get? Is it "grau"?
You would get grau, yes. However, notice that your seat cover is scratched and the white plastic is showing through...I would suggest getting...black...because the black seat covers are made of black ABS plastic and not painted, thus a scratch will not take off paint and expose an off-color base material.

 

[PJB.]

I would be somewhat surprised if any of the "usual suspects" for replacement parts have the control module. I'm sure the dealer can get it, but at an exhorbitant price. I would think that the module is that kind of thing that may get overlooked at a junkyard, and would try one of those places first. You could get lucky and find one for under $20.

And I'm with bluebee on the beige color.

 

[PJB.]

DOES ANYONE KNOW IF I NEED TO REMOVE THE SEAT BACK (how?) to get to that last rear plastic rivet?

Kudos to you bluebee for making everything so explicit. The reason why I didn't post as much detailed information as you is because the RealOEM exploded diagrams typically provide enough information and also list the types of connectors. For example, the T30 Torx screw is listed at RealOEM as an m4x10 and that was enough for me. However I typically fail to realize that this might not be apparent to others; there certainly was a time when I didn't know what that meant. Additionally, I find having the replacement parts right next to me allows me to locate the connections easily.

As for your plastic rivets, the only thing that I can recommend is finesse and force. If I recall, surprisingly, it's also difficult to install the rivets, though not as difficult as it is to remove them. I believe I used the same plastic trim panel tools that I referred to in Post #6. The flat head tools provide ample surface area to distribute the force onto the head of the rivet so as to push it in straight without hurting your fingers. I did not have to remove the seat back to get them in.

 

[PJB.]

I searched and didn't find the procedure to remove the seat back. How is THAT thing stuck onto the back of the seat anyway?

All I can say is that while swapping out the covers, the connection locations were fresh enough in my mind that I didn't need to search around for them. Is your passenger seat cover still attached? You can check on that seat if so. I'm sure you have your seat moved all the way up and all the way forward; I had to contort myself quite a bit to get down in there, but I was able to see the hole.