Tips for Installing New Tranny Needed
Hey folks,
So I have an 02 525i Auto E39. Build date 07/2002, M54 2.5L, ZF auto trans. She's my baby and last month the tranny took a dump. It's the ZF 5HP19 automatic trans (septronic). The front input shaft seal blew, spun the metal bushing behind it and it seized to the torque converter. The bushing spinning almost surely ruined at least the oil pump, and sent shavings through the trans. Although my fluid drained out a fresh, see through cherry red color and didn't smell burnt, there are signs that led me to buy a whole trans as opposed to trying to rebuild/spot fix again (the fluid was almost brand new too). I got the infamous Trans Failsafe Prog.
Mechanically I am pretty sound and have taken this very transmission out of this very car and reinstalled it once before (thinking it as just the TC and seal that needed to be replaced) - unfortunately it was more in-depth.
Fast forward to now, I have a new (used) transmission being delivered tomorrow and am preparing for the install. I am confident in the mechanical steps, but I am not certain about the reset/clear for the Trans Failsafe Prog. Can anybody advise? I do not have INPA or other potentially necessary software Will my car need to be taken to an Indy for this? (I think I already know the answer; yes).
Lastly, I read that when installing a new (or different) whole transmission, BMW requires you to call BMWNA and get a new "transmission code". This is my main area of ignorance/concern. What is this code? What purpose does it serve? How is it input in to the vehicle? Is this also something that will have to be done with INPA/applicable software, also at an Indy shop? And also important - at what step does this need to be done? After the new transmission has been installed but before electrical power is reconnected?
Thank you in advance. I know my questions are a bit searching themselves, but I have searched the Fest and Google and am still unclear.
Warm regards,
Braden
So I have an 02 525i Auto E39. Build date 07/2002, M54 2.5L, ZF auto trans. She's my baby and last month the tranny took a dump. It's the ZF 5HP19 automatic trans (septronic). The front input shaft seal blew, spun the metal bushing behind it and it seized to the torque converter. The bushing spinning almost surely ruined at least the oil pump, and sent shavings through the trans. Although my fluid drained out a fresh, see through cherry red color and didn't smell burnt, there are signs that led me to buy a whole trans as opposed to trying to rebuild/spot fix again (the fluid was almost brand new too). I got the infamous Trans Failsafe Prog.
Mechanically I am pretty sound and have taken this very transmission out of this very car and reinstalled it once before (thinking it as just the TC and seal that needed to be replaced) - unfortunately it was more in-depth.
Fast forward to now, I have a new (used) transmission being delivered tomorrow and am preparing for the install. I am confident in the mechanical steps, but I am not certain about the reset/clear for the Trans Failsafe Prog. Can anybody advise? I do not have INPA or other potentially necessary software Will my car need to be taken to an Indy for this? (I think I already know the answer; yes).
Lastly, I read that when installing a new (or different) whole transmission, BMW requires you to call BMWNA and get a new "transmission code". This is my main area of ignorance/concern. What is this code? What purpose does it serve? How is it input in to the vehicle? Is this also something that will have to be done with INPA/applicable software, also at an Indy shop? And also important - at what step does this need to be done? After the new transmission has been installed but before electrical power is reconnected?
Thank you in advance. I know my questions are a bit searching themselves, but I have searched the Fest and Google and am still unclear.
Warm regards,
Braden
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Why did you use red fluid in a ZF trans?
Valvoline MaxLife ATF is an approved replacement for Esso LT (don't know the numbers off hand) fluid used in the ZF 5HP19.
Spill the goods y'all
Anybody that's replaced their ZF Auto Trans in their E39 I6... I would love to hear what y'all experienced. Also helpful would be any experience with the 3 series from the same era (same 5HP19 ZF trans), as long as we're indeed talking about the same ZF transmission, not the GM tranny.
For redundancy, my vehicle:
2002 525i - E39 Chassis - Build Date 07/2002
ZF Automatic Trans (5HP19)
M54 2.5L I6
Anybody that's replaced their ZF Auto Trans in their E39 I6... I would love to hear what y'all experienced. Also helpful would be any experience with the 3 series from the same era (same 5HP19 ZF trans), as long as we're indeed talking about the same ZF transmission, not the GM tranny.
For redundancy, my vehicle:
2002 525i - E39 Chassis - Build Date 07/2002
ZF Automatic Trans (5HP19)
M54 2.5L I6
?
No advice? Experience? Help?
No advice? Experience? Help?
There's a reason why I'm ditching my automatic for a manual in the summer...
Anyways, to clear the trans failsafe? I believe it's as simple as clearing the OBDII codes, but I'm not sure. I recommend this $30 scan tool: http://xcar360.com/bmw-scanner-1-4-0-car-diagnostic-interface-tool-code-reader.html
Anyways, to clear the trans failsafe? I believe it's as simple as clearing the OBDII codes, but I'm not sure. I recommend this $30 scan tool: http://xcar360.com/bmw-scanner-1-4-0-car-diagnostic-interface-tool-code-reader.html
I think if it's a straight swap from a used tranny it doesn't need to be coded. If a new valve body was installed then it will need to be coded.....
Once you install it you do need the codes cleared.
Once you install it you do need the codes cleared.
Ok - the transmission is used (86k with 3mo. warranty) and is the exact same model ZF 5HP19 as the one coming out.
Wanting clarification on a couple things:
1. "If a new valve body was installed then it will need to be coded...".
>>Define "new" valve body... The valve body in my new (used) transmission is original to the transmission itself, but will obviously be "new" to my vehicle. Coding needed?
2. "Once you install it you do need the codes cleared".
>>I'm guessing these codes are DME and/or TMC codes, & not cleared by an OBDII Scan Tool. Is that correct?
>>Also assuming the codes are directly connected to "Trans Failsafe Prog" that appears in the Check Control. What program is able to clear these codes?
Since the Check Control (and these codes themselves) is multi-module communicated, (ex: LCMIII **** Instrument Cluster **** DME **** TMC), I'm thinking GT1 or INPA will be required...?
Thank you in advance.
Wanting clarification on a couple things:
1. "If a new valve body was installed then it will need to be coded...".
>>Define "new" valve body... The valve body in my new (used) transmission is original to the transmission itself, but will obviously be "new" to my vehicle. Coding needed?
2. "Once you install it you do need the codes cleared".
>>I'm guessing these codes are DME and/or TMC codes, & not cleared by an OBDII Scan Tool. Is that correct?
>>Also assuming the codes are directly connected to "Trans Failsafe Prog" that appears in the Check Control. What program is able to clear these codes?
Since the Check Control (and these codes themselves) is multi-module communicated, (ex: LCMIII **** Instrument Cluster **** DME **** TMC), I'm thinking GT1 or INPA will be required...?
Thank you in advance.
Its not just plug and play... you will need to reset the adaptation valves you will need a good scan tool at the least
Yes in short
The scanner I linked to above is pretty good at reading and clearing codes from all sorts of modules, though to reset the DME adaptations, you'll need INPA.
I just replaced a GM 4L30E auto tranny on a 1997 528i. This was the predecessor tranny to your ZF. I did not change valve bodies; just a 1:1 on the whole tranny. No codes. I asked a good friend who's a mechanic at a local BMW dealership and his only recommendation was to short across the + and - on the battery with a screwdriver for 30 seconds to drain any memory on the control module, then start driving it like grandma so the new one can get adapted to my style. So far so good.
Again, this was a 4L30E, so my advice may not apply to your ZF.
Again, this was a 4L30E, so my advice may not apply to your ZF.
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