I've have been running my old winter tires without TPMS sensors since winter 2012-13. The tires were worn down and did horrible in the snow last year, so I just left them on until last month to get a few more miles before they were retired. So, I've been putting up with the TPMS "Inactive" message on my 2011 328i for months since there were no TPMS sensors in the wheels.
I have access to a tire mounting machine and wheel balancer, so a few weeks ago, I took the old tires off, installed 4 RS Technik TPMS sensors on the steel rims and mounted new Blizzak snow tires. Eric at pyspeed.com matched the units based on my VIN, so the sensors are probably the correct ones. I have identical units on my X5 that I installed last year and have had no problems with them. I was careful not to damage the sensors during mounting. I did notice during sensor installation the inner ridge on the steel rims contacts a portion of the rubberized undersurface of the sensor - I have no idea how TPMS sensors work - depending on how they measure air pressure, not sure if that would interfere with the sensors' function.
Every time I start the car, the TPMS "Inactive" warning usually comes on within 10-15 seconds, just like it always has for the past 12 months. When I try to reset the system with the control stalk (no iDrive), it immediately gives me the "Inactive" message. I've driven at least 50 miles since installing the tires, including autobahn speeds (I'm military stationed in Germany). I've varied the tire pressure to recommended pressures on the door label and then back to the book recommended for speeds at and above 100 mph.
My questions:
1) Am I missing something basic?
2) Since I drove around on tires with no TPMS sensors for a year and never put the original wheels back on, is it possible for the RDC control module to have a code that has to be reset either by putting the original OEM wheels with sensors back on first vs. using BMW diagnostics to reset before the system will start functioning again?
3) If BMW diagnostics are required, does anybody have any experience using a Mongoose ISO cable in conjunction with BMW ISTA online for problems like this in a 2011 BMW 328i? DrewTech is giving me the "might or might not work" spiel but I've read several places where it sounds like it might work (some places say it won't work with the MOST bus, though).
I'm regretting spending $200 on the sensors to try to get the light to go away ... trying to decide if I want to put more money/effort into this or to just call it a day with $200 worth of non-functioning components in my wheels ... I know the Germany dealer will just rake me over the coals before they balk at the aftermarket sensors ...
Any thoughts?
I have access to a tire mounting machine and wheel balancer, so a few weeks ago, I took the old tires off, installed 4 RS Technik TPMS sensors on the steel rims and mounted new Blizzak snow tires. Eric at pyspeed.com matched the units based on my VIN, so the sensors are probably the correct ones. I have identical units on my X5 that I installed last year and have had no problems with them. I was careful not to damage the sensors during mounting. I did notice during sensor installation the inner ridge on the steel rims contacts a portion of the rubberized undersurface of the sensor - I have no idea how TPMS sensors work - depending on how they measure air pressure, not sure if that would interfere with the sensors' function.
Every time I start the car, the TPMS "Inactive" warning usually comes on within 10-15 seconds, just like it always has for the past 12 months. When I try to reset the system with the control stalk (no iDrive), it immediately gives me the "Inactive" message. I've driven at least 50 miles since installing the tires, including autobahn speeds (I'm military stationed in Germany). I've varied the tire pressure to recommended pressures on the door label and then back to the book recommended for speeds at and above 100 mph.
My questions:
1) Am I missing something basic?
2) Since I drove around on tires with no TPMS sensors for a year and never put the original wheels back on, is it possible for the RDC control module to have a code that has to be reset either by putting the original OEM wheels with sensors back on first vs. using BMW diagnostics to reset before the system will start functioning again?
3) If BMW diagnostics are required, does anybody have any experience using a Mongoose ISO cable in conjunction with BMW ISTA online for problems like this in a 2011 BMW 328i? DrewTech is giving me the "might or might not work" spiel but I've read several places where it sounds like it might work (some places say it won't work with the MOST bus, though).
I'm regretting spending $200 on the sensors to try to get the light to go away ... trying to decide if I want to put more money/effort into this or to just call it a day with $200 worth of non-functioning components in my wheels ... I know the Germany dealer will just rake me over the coals before they balk at the aftermarket sensors ...
Any thoughts?