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Trans and Engine Failsafe prog.

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20K views 127 replies 11 participants last post by  mattmar1  
#1 ·
I am in desperate need of some help.
I have both the Trans and engine failsafe prog. message at the cluster and the car will not start.
I have done the following, but still no luck starting the car.
1. 12.35 V and battery is relative new.
2. Check ECU box. All dry and fuses are OK.
3. Disconnect air mass meter.
4. Disconnect battery over night and connect again. The car is an 2002 E39.

I am in a very remote location so any help is most welcome.
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#87 · (Edited)
Not much to update. The battery is a bit low and the charger has not arrived yet. Same with the cable.
I did try to reset the codes, but the trans and engine failsafe is still there.
I have also looked at towing cost. A round $1,000 to tow it back to civilization.
Not looking too good I am afraid.
I only have the 16 pin connection inside the cabin, isn't that enough?
At this point I am leaning g toward a faulty throttle control, but in reality I am at a total loss.
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#88 ·
Well, let's look at the bright side of things.

-- The battery charger and the cable (inpa or pasoft cable ?) are a MUST have, in my opinion. And that 16 pin connector in the cabin is right for the inpa cable K-line. So I'd wait for them.
Meanwhile, did you succeed at recharging the battery and starting the car ?!

Yes that error you posted could indicate a faulty throttle. Most likely though, it is the electric connectors or connections of the throttle to DME. I'd start by inspecting them and and cleaning it.

Again, do not worry about those fail-safe messages. They will disappear once we find and fix the root cause of the problems.
 
#91 ·
The cable has arrived. This is the Pa Soft cable, the INPA cable never made it and was returned to China by the shipping company.
I have had the battery charged at a garage over night and it is at 13.1 V now and I will get a PC by Friday.
The cable comes with a small CD, I assume that is the software. I got some guidance from Taz, but anything else to look out for?
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#105 ·
Did you run CMD as Administrator?
Try reading this, it's more detailed.


Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
It says Users\Admin, so I assume I am running CMD as Administration.

I have gone through the steps in the link, but still same result.
 
#111 ·
seeing the P0601 error that showed when reading with your scanner, that tends to make one think that there is a DME internal error, but the connector to the throttle body can cause this as well. the body has a redundant pair of position sensors, their output is compared by the DME for position readings of both, if not the same within a certain spec it will trigger an engine fail safe. also the 6E and 70 errors are indicating a positioning error, there are no pedal assembly sensors on your car, only the one on the throttle body. i have seen on some e39 I6's (my 528i included) where a poor connection to the throttle body connector can cause be the cause. in my case, cleaning all the pins an installing with dielectric grease to protect then connections has cured my engine failsafe for over 3 years now. on two i had to replace the connector due to loosening of the pin ID, again no problems since.
 
#113 ·
The DME is the same unit as the ECU, right?
The mechanic is currently taking the ECU out and sending it to another shop for testing.
The car is back on the mainland, but still in a relative small town. We took a taxi 500 km home, but I am still hopeful it can be fixed so I can pick it up later, rather than having it towed all the way back.
Thanks for your advise, you definitely sound like you know your Bimmer. I will mention the throttle body connector pins to the mechanic, maybe he can check and give it a blast of contact cleaner again.
 
#112 ·
I was getting Engine Failsafe Program for years, only every 4 or 5 months. Restarting the engine fixed it for another 4-5 months, then it started happening weekly, then a few time a day. Changing the throttle body and pedal pot didn’t fix it.
I then replaced the connector and wiring for the throttle body, that was 3-4 years ago, it’s been fine since then.
 
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#114 ·
Jim, any chance you have a picture of the connector and wiring for the throttle body?
A picture is worth 1000 words as I am dealing with a local mechanic.
Below is the parts he has changed so far.
The blue open circuit relay apparently only had 1.5 V and was supposed to have 12 V.

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#115 ·
I do, however mine is a 540 V8 and you have a i6 so they use different throttle bodies and connectors.
Where did the mechanic take the voltage readings from?
Save me some time so I don’t have to look up a lot of wiring data, did he say what that relay was for?
 
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#118 · (Edited)
Does this guy know what he’s doing? The DME (ECU) relay doesn’t open the throttle body, the DME controls the position (how much it opens) of the throttle body.

Here’s a few pics and a schematic of the DME relay and circuit.
When the key is turned on the following relay pins should read 12 volts, 30 (6), 87 (5), and 87 (2).
Pin 85 (4) gets pulled to a low voltage (we call it ground) it will be somewhere around 1 volt.
When the relay is energized (turned on) 12 volts passes from pin 87 to 87.

Hope this helps.

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#119 ·
The car is working again. Apparently it was the ECU.
The ECU was tested, fixed and installed again. No more failsafe alarms and the car is fully drivable. Total cost about $800, including crankshaft sensor, new battery, coolant temperature sensor, throttle control, open circuit relay and labor.
The car is still 450 km south of me, but I will collect it in January. Time to celebrate Christmas.
Thanks for all the help, advice and support.
If any of you ever visit Thailand, please drop me a message.
Did I mention the wife got pregnant on the island? Soon another "headache" starts, but for happier reasons.
Happy New Year and may 2022 be a bit more normal.