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hi all

I've replaced the oem gear with the odometer gears gear about a year ago but shortly after all 3 lights came back. took it to an indy shop and said that whenever you mess with the actuator, you have to have it calibrated with bmw scan tools; I could still drive it, but it'll be full time rwd.

NOW, (couple months later) I'm in limp mode getting codes 5463, 55c4, 5f3a, and 5462. upon doing research, it leads back to the actuator and I've decided to just replace the whole unit. From what I've been reading, I should be okay with just removing and replacing, and no one talks about calibrating it.

Can someone confirm or give insight to this? I've done this before and would hate to pay someone else to do it unless I have to because of the calibration.

thanks in advance
 

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codes/t cas actuator prices/calibration

this diy actually gives you the codes

you can get the actuator for around 500 bucks now .....two sources came up in the last few weeks .....ecs and cobra

you can live without a recalibration but we would recommend getting it done ........it's tough to pay 100 plus for a 5 minute job but the electronics guys have us cornered......the calibration covers very basic oil condition and an input to an algorithm that effects the pre setting of the actuator at each startup and thus the reaction speed of electronic 4 wheel drive......so ......the question in your mind may be ......why have the 4 wheel drive system if it's not in top shape ?????

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/pages/viewpage.action?pageId=128385035
 

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post 22....transfer case actuator cost

kinda shows that at last they can't keep up a 100% mark up on the complete actuators

another point I make is that many of the diy's state to be careful not to disturb the actual actuator motor /windings etc .....this is very short sighted .....the least any diy'er needs to do is check the brushes and do some very basic cleanup/tests I posted in the fest thread.....a dc motor inspection/cleanup and basic test is very very simple and can save headaches later.....a new resistor is also low cost....~20bucks

I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846517&referrerid=343410

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB8QFjAAahUKEwiSu-WH2unGAhUOpYgKHTWyBL0&url=http://cobratransmission.com/bmw-x3-transfer-case-actuator-55133225-1&ei=puisVZLQKY7KogS15JLoCw&usg=AFQjCNF8tP3VhoCd7_VsuoZJFKkbYOw5pA&sig2=Y4J9kCCoB1twpd-iUUapMA&bvm=bv.98197061,d.cGU
 

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DO you have any other local small German auto repair shops? many have the tools needed to reset the Transfer case adaptation and do it for a reasonable fee unlike the dealership or this place you are currently going to. Also the reset is only for clutch pack wear after a fluid change.
 

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....... an indy shop and said that whenever you mess with the actuator, you have to have it calibrated with bmw scan tools

...... I've decided to just replace the whole unit. From what I've been reading, I should be okay with just removing and replacing, and no one talks about calibrating it.
I don't believe that indy shop is correct. But may depend on what they mean by 'mess with the actuator'.

Any mechanical intervention on the actuator, such as replacing the gear, does not require coding. Doesn't make sense saying it would.

If you did something electrical that affected how the actuator uses the classification resistor in the transfer case, then I could see that re-calibration would be needed.

Replacing the actuator with a new one would requires coding so that it can be matched with the existing resistor.

Replacing the actuator with a used or reconditioned one might work without coding with a bit of luck, but I would think a re-calibration ensures that it operates the clutch pack in the transfer case optimally.

Replacing just the classification resistor surely requires coding too.

The discussion really gets back to the question of why the actuator gear wears for some owners and not for others.

It seems likely that it is a symptom for something else that has gone wrong within the transfer case and/or actuator assembly.
Replacing just the gear might just buy you time. (As would rotating the old gear - but that may buy you even less time.)

It also appears that the type and quantity of lubricant around the new gear could be critical.

If your actuator gear wore out because the transfer case clutch packs had been operating inefficiently for some time, then a re-calibration was needed whether a new gear was installed or not.

All depends on what error codes were existing or pending at the time the gear was replaced.

As the actuator is relatively simple, I wonder what else can go wrong with it other than worn brushes in the motor, failed windings, wear in other parts of the worm drive, electrical contacts, etc.?
 

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Reviving this

So I’m now desperate.

My problems are that I have a bucking and jerking transmission on acceleration particularly up hills. It’s so bad that you can hear the rear diff “slapping” if you know what I mean. Bloody terrible.

Eventually I got the three lights followed by the clicking sound in the transfer case actuator.

I’ve gone to the fix in the DIY actuator gear replacement thread.

I’ve replaced the gear, thrice.... (first time I rotated the gear, not quite 180 deg I think), first time The jerking was gone, good as new however after a bit of oomph on the gas, the triad of lights reappeared and I had the error again. Not a real problem to me as the jerking was still gone and she was driving as good as new.

So, second time i replaced the gear with one I bought off eBay. Take it for a test drive and the jerking is back.... no errors. I’m wondering if the gear was not made correctly to spec and so I decide to put the old gear in, correctly rotated away from the chewed side this time....

Test drive, jerking returned, no error....

I’m at my wits end here but here are my theories and I’m hoping you much smarter folk than I might be able to help:

07 3.0d m57TU2

1. The problem is in the gearbox or torque converter. Thinking about a possible fluid change and service by a tram is Sion shop but I don’t think this will help. They will do the Mechatronic sleeve while they are there and that’s the only bit I reckon could really help.

2. The problem is the transfer case itself. I would try a fluid change and adaptations reset. Fingers crossed that helps.

3. I have constant error codes on my glow plus, they are:
004212-004262 inclusive (so 6 errors for 6 plugs. I have read elsewhere that these codes usually refer to the heater that preheats the diesel and is mainly useful for colder weather. I live in Australia, no problems with cold WX. But should these codes mean my plugs are faulty or I have a problem with my system, then maybe I’m getting a misfire as a result, giving the jerky feel I’m getting through the transmission.... it would have to be a REALLY bad miss to get this level of jerk.

4. Maybe the front diff is the problem as when the gear was replaced the first time and resulted in the errors but still drove ok, it was only driving rear wheel drive. Now that I’ve replaced the gear, it’s reverting to all wheel drive and maybe the front diff is causing the problems.

ANY OTHER IDEAS OR COMMENTS ON MY THEORIES WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED GUYS! I need help big time!

Thanks in advance you legends!
 

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BeeemerBro
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Are you running with staggered tires?
What's the age of the tires and battery?
What's the inflation?
Are all 4 tires the same brand or are they mixed?
Have you changed the tc fluid?
What codes did you say the scanner is reading?

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All wheel speed sendors, and their reluctor rings on the hubs cleaned and checked?

And the SAS reset by turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock a couple of times?
 

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Are you running with staggered tires?
What's the age of the tires and battery?
What's the inflation?
Are all 4 tires the same brand or are they mixed?
Have you changed the tc fluid?
What codes did you say the scanner is reading?

Sent from my 9029W using Tapatalk


Staggered tyres - yep.

255/45/18 rear
245/45/18 front

Rears new as of a few weeks ago. The jerking got much worse after the new tyres were put on. Maybe I go and get the fronts done too.

Battery? Not sure how old. I’ve had the car a year, after checking the codes using a scan tool I decided the battery was good.

Will check Tyre pressures.

Mixed brand between front and rear tyres

Have not changed the TC fluid yet

Well the scanner isn’t reading any codes anymore after the new gear has been installed.


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How does that work? Like, I’m trying to figure out the logic of that.

Not doubting what you’re saying just genuinely curious.


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And if I shouldn’t stagger my tyres, what am I supposed to put on? The OEM says that my tyres should be exactly was there are now so I’m confused.


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Different brand tires have different overall diameters regardless of stamped tire size. Staggereds are especially difficult because only a few select brands have different stamped sizes that measure to the same OD within 1%. That the issue exacerbated with the new tires is pretty good evidence that tires are the issue. Even a single worn tire among 3 new tires is enough to wreak havoc on the X drive in these vehicles.


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