Did you put the same amount of fluid in that you took out? put some photos up of the work you did. I would like to see the transmission opened up.

I could only fit 3qts. I was going to start it and hold the brake and shift it and then add more oil. About the pictures sorry i did not take any. I already put it back together. If i take it back out I will post them.

Did you make sure everything sealed properly? Any electrical plugs possibly not plugged back in? Can you put any more fluid in now that you've started it for a little bit?

I did what you said...I was able to add more oil. It seems to be fine now. Thank you so much! I guess it has sensors in there as well. In case you are low on oil. The car wont shift at all. I guess thats good. Once again thanks

Before you consider it finished though...I remember reading to fill it at dead cold, then run through each of the gears, shut it off, attempt to fill again as much as possible when once again at dead cold.

What kind of new fluid did you use? Did you drain the torque converter or push the new fluid through the cooler lines? (most people don't do this, was just curious)

Since you replaced some or all of the fluid, it would also be a good idea to reset the transmission adaptations (put key in, do not touch brake pedal, push on/start so that the electronics come alive but engine does not start, floor the gas pedal with the little button under it pushed for 20 secs, then go ahead and start the car normally).

Glad everything worked out for you!
 

I heard that only dealer has the ability to change transmission OIL. I would take it to the dealer.

Not true. Anyone with a few wrenches can, though a flusher/pump is helpful if you want to get the fluid in the cooler. I believe the torque converter has a drain plug as well. Just make sure you use the right fluid and follow the proper filling procedure.
 

 

i was told by an indy dealer that you should change it twice once the original factory fluid is drained !

You'll get much closer to 100% of the fluid change with two changes than one (assuming you didn't use a pump to flush the trans oil cooler and didn't drain the torque converter, etc.)...that's really the only reason, but it's a pretty good reason to, assuming you can find fluid cheap enough.
 

but why do it anyway !? just because OR does it help with tranny shifts/smoothness ?

I emailed Martin Vogel (the fluids guy for ZF) about fluids a year ago. He wrote back that the Lifeguard6 fluid (Shell M-1375.4) is a "lifetime fill" item, meaning that it's supposed to be good for the life of the transmission. Additionally, the normal procedure for dealerships on these transmissions when doing service is drain, replace whatever part, filter/strain the old fluid, and put the old fluid back in. They only use new fluid when there has been a leak and they need to top it off.

That all being said, people have reported smoother, more solid shifts after replacing the fluid. I've read of people swearing it needs to be replaced at 100K mi, others claim 80K mi and even 50K mi. I have ~130K-something on the clock and I'm tempted to flush and replace just as good practice, though I also trust the fluids guy for the maker of the transmission, so I'm a little torn.

Has anyone else here replaced the transmission fluid in their E65/E66? If so, which fluid did you use? Replaced filter/pan? Transmission fail or problems after? Transmission problems before fluid replacement? Any noticeable difference in shifts? Full flush (including cooler) or just drained as much as possible and refilled?
 

Car has to be cold, fill with egine not running then start car and contiue filling till it comes out of fill plug. Do all this fast as you do not want trans to get hot. If car is not running when doing fill the trans ends up being LOW.

I had a tranny replaced over a year ago. Dealer said when they scan your key some service stuff that shows up is tranny which is 6 years or 100k miles.

I had my fluid and filter replaced at 98k. It cost me ~500 bucks if I remember correctly.

this guy got his tranny rebuild and zf told him
" BMW claims its long-life fluid....

Manufacturer (ZF) says.. 100 - 120.000 km's MAX>!...
"
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=402762&highlight=zf

Keif said:

I emailed Martin Vogel (the fluids guy for ZF) about fluids a year ago. He wrote back that the Lifeguard6 fluid (Shell M-1375.4) is a "lifetime fill" item, meaning that it's supposed to be good for the life of the transmission. Additionally, the normal procedure for dealerships on these transmissions when doing service is drain, replace whatever part, filter/strain the old fluid, and put the old fluid back in. They only use new fluid when there has been a leak and they need to top it off.

That all being said, people have reported smoother, more solid shifts after replacing the fluid. I've read of people swearing it needs to be replaced at 100K mi, others claim 80K mi and even 50K mi. I have ~130K-something on the clock and I'm tempted to flush and replace just as good practice, though I also trust the fluids guy for the maker of the transmission, so I'm a little torn.

Has anyone else here replaced the transmission fluid in their E65/E66? If so, which fluid did you use? Replaced filter/pan? Transmission fail or problems after? Transmission problems before fluid replacement? Any noticeable difference in shifts? Full flush (including cooler) or just drained as much as possible and refilled?

Click to expand...

I just replaced my pan and the fluid that came out.

I didnt measure what came out, but firstly it was almost black.

The fluid I put in was Castrol Multi-Import ATF. The bottle didnt say it met the Shell M-1375.4 spec, but the computer did.

The color of the new fluid is RED, which I think it a good thing so it will show if I have a trans fluid leak instead of being the same color as the engine oil!

I only could get about 3 qts back in, but the car was not level. The front wheels were on ramps and the backs on the ground.

Now, my issues/ questions are:

I get a hard shift from 2-3. It's not obnoxious, just noticeable. It wasnt there before. Could this be low fluid? I read I should have been able to put 4 qts in, so I am assuming it's 1 qt low? Is that really a big deal?

How do you guys safely get the car jacked up to level? It seems like the only spot to jack in the rear is on the sides, but then where do you put jack stands to hold it? Use two jack simulataneously?

Also I replaced the plugs and forgot to reconnect one of the plugs... dumb, it was late. So I havea check engine light now- emissions related fault. It runs super smooth, I dont detect any issues. Will the light go off after a few more starts or do i need to get it turned off? Can Auto-Zone do this?

Thanks!

Should go off on its own eventually.

I just had my fluid replaced last week. I have another thread up titled: "first transmission service" The indy dealer used a BG powerflush machine. In the thread, I go through all of the differences I feel before and after the service. I've got 86K on the car and it definitely made a big difference.