http://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Crankcase-Heating-Element/dp/B00TOUZ5DO

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eries-E90/FUEL-Intake_Manifold_Replacement/FUEL-Intake_Manifold_Replacement.htm

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/BE83/BMW_BE83_ENGOIL_pg6.htm

 

i hope this may help someone, please add info or make corrections to my post. i don't come on here much so i may not make any updates or replies to this post.

 

Helped in my case. Same issue on my 2007 X3 (N52 engine). If you're ever in town I'll buy you a beer. :thumbup:

 

Nice job chasing that down! Do you think anything caused that other than a part becoming faulty?

 

I can't think of anything that would cause the heating element to short out. It prob just heats up so many times and then ends up melting some insulation or something and shorts out. I was having a prob with a dead battery and after I replaced it the new battery was having trouble due to a bad cell so I had to jump the car and tried to start it a few times before jumping it. So it's possible that the element was on longer than normal or something. But I think the element was bad before that. I can't remember when all the issues happened and i always thought it was the O2 sensors not the heating element.

 

Hi buddy,

I have the same issue with you. I can find the angel connector but my wiring to that (Like you showed in your 3rd pic) is burnt as well. And I can't find the wiring parts. Any suggestion?

 

Hi,
I have the exact problem with my BMW (P0031, P0051, P0037, P0057 Errors).
The fuse did blow every time I started the car. When I disconnect the Angle Connector the fuse didn't blow.
Now I have replaced the Angle Connector and the fuse is fine but the engine light wont go away
I have tried to clear the codes with my ODB2 and for the moment the codes and engine light disappears (I can drive with the light of but when I stop the engine and restart the car again the engine light and the same codes come back).... The fuse is fine.
Before I replaced the Angle Connector the dealer checked every O2 sensor and they were all good.

Any suggestions how to clear the engine light? I have tried ODB2, disconnect the battery and resetting the service codes using the onboard computer...

 

Hi,
I have the exact problem with my BMW (P0031, P0051, P0037, P0057 Errors).
The fuse did blow every time I started the car. When I disconnect the Angle Connector the fuse didn't blow. Now I have replaced the Angle Connector and the fuse is fine but the engine light wont go away. I have tried to clear the codes with my ODB2 and for the moment the codes and engine light disappears (I can drive with the light of but when I stop the engine and restart the car again the engine light and the same codes come back).... The fuse is fine. Before I replaced the Angle Connector the dealer checked every O2 sensor and they were all good.

Maybe NOT the exact CAUSE of the similar symptoms or identical codes.
If you would post your model year, Chassis#, Engine, etc. (e.g. 2007 328xi, N52KP) someone could provide you with the electrical schematic for the O2 Sensor heater circuit, which includes the Angle Connector (AKA PCV Breather Heater and we might be able to figure out why the codes appear on restart, even though the Heater/Angle Connector and fuse have been replaced and are fine. If you want to learn how to use TIS to get that information yourself, just use this link and enter your vehicle VIN or other identifying info:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

One of the problems arising from posting to an OLD thread (last post prior to yours was October, 2016) is that "Stuff Happens."

In this case, the "Stuff" is Recall Campaign # 17V-683, related to the "Breather Heater" or Angle Connector on all 328i/xi models 2007 to 2011, which was announced in October 2017. BMW has been VERY slow to provide a fix, make parts available, and contact the owners of such availability and to schedule a Dealer visit (I'm registered with BMW NA, received the first form letter in December, but have NOT received ANY further communication).

HOWEVER, if you were to call your nearest Dealer, they SHOULD offer an inspection to try to determine the fault in your case. However, do NOT "bet the ranch" on the idea that BMW dealers have the ability, based upon the personal experience of whatever tech you draw, to identify or find the problem in your particular case, for the reasons suggested below.

Keep in mind the codes you are getting are for low voltage (possibly/probably NONE) in each of the O2 sensor heater circuits. That is what happens when a short in the Breather Heater (in parallel on the same fuse circuit as O2 Sensors) blows the fuse -- power is also lost to EACH of the 4 O2 Sensor Heaters. Here is the TIS circuit diagram for my 2007 328xi:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/.../e91-328xi-tou_200703/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f79-fuse/vEO0UYq

Do NOT assume that the wiring diagram is identical for YOUR vehicle. Find the diagram for YOUR vehicle or post data (such as last 7 of VIN) for your vehicle and I'll give you the link to the circuit diagram (however it WOULD benefit YOU to take the time to learn how to navigate TIS ;-)

In looking at that Schematic, nothing jumps off the page at me to suggest WHY no code (or at least SES light) during operation, but it returns on restart. Perhaps the way the warning light or code memory process is "programmed" is that even when you have NO voltage to the O2 sensor heaters (test at ANY of the Orange Wires), the SES does NOT light until the next drive cycle, and even though you Clear the codes, there is still NO voltage. There are of course other possibilities, such as a damaged DME monitoring circuit, but rather than worry about the worst possible scenario, there ARE possible/likely scenarios that YOU can test for yourself, with the benefit of TIS Schematics.

Your issue COULD be due to the fact that wiring was damaged at the time of the Breather Heater short and blowing of the fuse, and although you appear to be assuming that replacing the Breather Heater/Angle Connector and fuse corrected the problem, it ONLY corrected the problem of a blown fuse. There appears to STILL be an open circuit downstream from that fuse which is setting the P0031 etc. O2 Heater Voltage Errors.

Note that in the attached Schematic, the Breather Heater is at the END of the parallel wiring chain, or at least supplied by the same connector (X6961) as the O2 Sensor Heaters, so wire damage at ANY point between the fuse and Breather Heater is possible if the fuse did NOT blow fast enough.

If you have INPA, that SHOULD tell you if you have a fault, even if it has NOT yet set a warning lamp (SES light). I'm NOT sure if a generic code reader will do the same. Problem is that "Monitors" that are governmentally-required for purposes of setting the SES (and code) if there is a failure in the Heater Circuit, may NOT light the SES until the start of the next drive cycle, and AFAIK, there is NO function in INPA that provides a readout of the Heater status or voltage, ONLY a Monitor Readiness Status for the Heaters (which to me suggests a Drive Cycle warning lamp scenario). INPA, or many generic scan tools, CAN of course provide real-time readout of Sensor signal voltage, but that is NOT heater voltage.

All the code software theorizing (SWAGs aside, I would suggest tracing the wiring from the fuse to the O2 Heaters. Actually, if wiring damage creating an open circuit IS the cause of your issue, then as I read the Schematic, only ONE test is needed to confirm that:
1) Look at X6961 on the Schematic, and you will see THAT is the common Junction (like a splice) for ALL 5 components powered by the fuse (4 O2 sensors and the Breather Heater). So if you have NO voltage at X6961 with ignition on, then there is a wiring fault between X6961 and the fuse. Also, in the case of a short, heat damage is often found in the area of relevant pin location in a connector, so the damaged area may be readily apparent upon careful examination of one of more of the connectors, without having to inspect the full run of the relevant wire itself.

So how do you find X6961 to be able to test?
TIS Schematics are interactive, meaning you can click on any of the BLUE component ID#s and get more information on that component. In this case, if you click on X6961 and select "Installation Location" you get this diagram:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-328xi-tou_200703/S8C692L

Likewise, clicking on either of the two Connectors, X60551 or X6011 and selecting Installation Location, provides this diagram which shows the location of both connectors:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-328xi-tou_200703/SL92ADs

So MOST of the wiring, and ALL of the connectors you need to check are in the E-box.

Please let us know what you find,
George

 

...BMW e90 325i -2007 model...The fuse box in my car is in the glove compartment in the passanger side. Can the wire from there to the X6961(?) be bad? Yes, and there is probably wiring or connector damage in or near the E-box which is causing an open circuit in the Orange wires from F79 to Connector X6961Is this what you ment by this "So if you have NO voltage at X6961 with ignition on, then there is a wiring fault between X6961 and the fuse." ? EXACTLY

Do you guys think the dealers code reader can erase more codes, or clear "deeper" than my ODB2 (I have the odb2 elm327 WiFI - model)? No, NOT codes saved in the DMEIf so I will go to the dealer next week to let them try to clear the codes and hope for the best (but I don't see why this would be any different from when I clear the codes) :dunno: I don't see why either, for the reasons stated below

Click on this link which is the wiring diagram for the Fuse, O2 Sensor Heaters, and Breather Heater on your 2007 325i E90, and follow that diagram to make sure you are understanding the explanation below:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...sv2/a/en/e90-325i-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f79-fuse/vEO0UYq

BTW, that is NOT the "Crankshaft" Breather as 'mis-stated' in the Schematic description of E65390, but rather Crankcase -- we all make mistakes.

To emphasize/clarify what I said earlier: You clearly had a short-circuit in the "Breather Heater" or Angle Connector that drew excessive current flow and blew the 30A fuse, F79. That is a LOT of amps, and there is a considerable chance of wiring and/or connector damage between the fuse (F79) and the location of short-circuit (Breather Heater) that occurred BEFORE the fuse blew.

Since you are getting codes for Low/No Voltage at ALL FOUR (4) O2 Sensor Heaters, which are powered by the same fuse & Connector X6961, even AFTER replacing the Breather Heater and F79, and you have checked F79 replacement fuse and it is still good, it appears to me that the 4 O2 Sensor Heater codes are correctly reporting "presently-existing" no voltage fault, rather than "uncleared" codes left over from the earlier episode, or some unexplained inability of your ELM 327 to clear those codes.

I would expect that the reason you cannot Clear the 4 heater codes is that the DME is constantly reading/checking heater voltage when ignition is on. Ignition must be on for a scan tool to connect to the DME and Clear Codes saved in the DME. The DME immediately reads no voltage at the heaters and resets the code, or never deletes it at all. No reason occurs to me that a "Drive Cycle" should be involved, so you don't have to turn off the ignition and turn it back on for the code to reappear. That statement is my own concept based upon what I have read and experienced related to codes in general, and is NOT based upon any particular knowledge of the BMW DME programming for heater voltage faults, or personal experience with the same, so anyone feel free to enlighten me if your view differs.

As I interpret the wiring diagram in TIS, ALL 5 heating elements are connected by separate wires to connector X6961. So if a short in the Breather Heater caused F79 to blow (which based upon your description appears conclusive), and IF you have no voltage at ANY of the 4 O2 Sensor Heaters as the four codes indicate, then IF there is a wiring fault causing an actual loss of voltage to EACH of the heaters, you will find NO voltage at Connector X6961.

If you do NOT see any identifiable wiring/heat damage there, trace the circuit back toward F79. Note that there are small numbers (.5, .75, 1.5, 2.5) to the Right of each of the Orange wires in the Schematic. Those indicate the wire SIZE in mm-squared cross-sectional area.

What causes wiring damage (and a fire risk) in the case of a short-circuit, is HEAT. Just like a resistance element electric heater develops heat by current flow through wire having high resistance, generating heat, likewise the resistance of any wire is inversely-proportional to the diameter or cross-section area of the wire.

So without knowing what anything in your E-box looks like, except for the TIS diagrams of "Installation Location" for the various Connectors, the most likely section of the circuit to have suffered heat damage from the short-circuit is the section of Orange (1.5 mm2) wire between X60551 and X6961. Highest resistance (= highest heat) is often found at the ends of the wire at the connectors, due to increased heat/resistance at the connector pins/sockets. All that taken together suggests the wiring/connector fault is likely in the E-box, so once you start looking at things there, the problem may be quite clear. X6961 itself is most likely where the problem is, based upon the foregoing rationale.

Some connectors shown in TIS have a "Connector View" diagram that shows what the connector looks like, and the various wire locations are identified by Pin Numbers. That is NOT the case in this Schematic for X6961 & X60551. There IS a Connector View for X6011:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-325i-lim/CTV7EyqD

The Orange wire from the JB to connector X6011 should be found at pin 4 of the Schematic per the Schematic. I can't be sure what the Pin#3 designation at X60551 is supposed to relate to, but normally that would mean pin #3 of Connector X60551. :tsk: The FEW connectors I have personally examined on my BMW have tiny pin numbers outboard of the pins, at least on the female sockets, requiring bright light and/or magnification to read.

Please let us know what Connector X6961 looks like, as there is NO 'Connector View' for that component. The Schematic suggests the same function as a "splice" so perhaps it's something like a 6-pin socket that joins/connects each of the 6 Orange wires plugged into the socket? If that is the case, then there would be no reason for pin numbering, as ANY of the 6 wires could be connected to any pin in the "connector" socket, and it wouldn't matter what position.

Please let us know what you find,
George

 

Click on this link which is the wiring diagram for the Fuse, O2 Sensor Heaters, and Breather Heater on your 2007 325i E90, and follow that diagram to make sure you are understanding the explanation below:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...sv2/a/en/e90-325i-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f79-fuse/vEO0UYq

BTW, that is NOT the "Crankshaft" Breather as 'mis-stated' in the Schematic description of E65390, but rather Crankcase -- we all make mistakes.

To emphasize/clarify what I said earlier: You clearly had a short-circuit in the "Breather Heater" or Angle Connector that drew excessive current flow and blew the 30A fuse, F79. That is a LOT of amps, and there is a considerable chance of wiring and/or connector damage between the fuse (F79) and the location of short-circuit (Breather Heater) that occurred BEFORE the fuse blew.

Since you are getting codes for Low/No Voltage at ALL FOUR (4) O2 Sensor Heaters, which are powered by the same fuse & Connector X6961, even AFTER replacing the Breather Heater and F79, and you have checked F79 replacement fuse and it is still good, it appears to me that the 4 O2 Sensor Heater codes are correctly reporting "presently-existing" no voltage fault, rather than "uncleared" codes left over from the earlier episode, or some unexplained inability of your ELM 327 to clear those codes.

I would expect that the reason you cannot Clear the 4 heater codes is that the DME is constantly reading/checking heater voltage when ignition is on. Ignition must be on for a scan tool to connect to the DME and Clear Codes saved in the DME. The DME immediately reads no voltage at the heaters and resets the code, or never deletes it at all. No reason occurs to me that a "Drive Cycle" should be involved, so you don't have to turn off the ignition and turn it back on for the code to reappear. That statement is my own concept based upon what I have read and experienced related to codes in general, and is NOT based upon any particular knowledge of the BMW DME programming for heater voltage faults, or personal experience with the same, so anyone feel free to enlighten me if your view differs.

As I interpret the wiring diagram in TIS, ALL 5 heating elements are connected by separate wires to connector X6961. So if a short in the Breather Heater caused F79 to blow (which based upon your description appears conclusive), and IF you have no voltage at ANY of the 4 O2 Sensor Heaters as the four codes indicate, then IF there is a wiring fault causing an actual loss of voltage to EACH of the heaters, you will find NO voltage at Connector X6961.

If you do NOT see any identifiable wiring/heat damage there, trace the circuit back toward F79. Note that there are small numbers (.5, .75, 1.5, 2.5) to the Right of each of the Orange wires in the Schematic. Those indicate the wire SIZE in mm-squared cross-sectional area.

What causes wiring damage (and a fire risk) in the case of a short-circuit, is HEAT. Just like a resistance element electric heater develops heat by current flow through wire having high resistance, generating heat, likewise the resistance of any wire is inversely-proportional to the diameter or cross-section area of the wire.

So without knowing what anything in your E-box looks like, except for the TIS diagrams of "Installation Location" for the various Connectors, the most likely section of the circuit to have suffered heat damage from the short-circuit is the section of Orange (1.5 mm2) wire between X60551 and X6961. Highest resistance (= highest heat) is often found at the ends of the wire at the connectors, due to increased heat/resistance at the connector pins/sockets. All that taken together suggests the wiring/connector fault is likely in the E-box, so once you start looking at things there, the problem may be quite clear. X6961 itself is most likely where the problem is, based upon the foregoing rationale.

Some connectors shown in TIS have a "Connector View" diagram that shows what the connector looks like, and the various wire locations are identified by Pin Numbers. That is NOT the case in this Schematic for X6961 & X60551. There IS a Connector View for X6011:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-325i-lim/CTV7EyqD

The Orange wire from the JB to connector X6011 should be found at pin 4 of the Schematic per the Schematic. I can't be sure what the Pin#3 designation at X60551 is supposed to relate to, but normally that would mean pin #3 of Connector X60551. :tsk: The FEW connectors I have personally examined on my BMW have tiny pin numbers outboard of the pins, at least on the female sockets, requiring bright light and/or magnification to read.

Please let us know what Connector X6961 looks like, as there is NO 'Connector View' for that component. The Schematic suggests the same function as a "splice" so perhaps it's something like a 6-pin socket that joins/connects each of the 6 Orange wires plugged into the socket? If that is the case, then there would be no reason for pin numbering, as ANY of the 6 wires could be connected to any pin in the "connector" socket, and it wouldn't matter what position.

Please let us know what you find,
George

Okay so I have measured at X6961 and it's 0V. And at the connector X6011 pin 4 (it is pin 4 as you said) it's also 0V. Further on at the WS/RT wire it's also 0V. I have 12V at the fuse F79 so the next thing I can thing of is to remove the fust box and see if there is something in between the fuse and the WS/RT wire that is burned/damage.
If so, how do I remove the fuse box in the glove compartment?

But one thing I can't understand, I have 12V at the fuse F79 even with the igniting of?? How come? As I see the schematic, I should get the 12V first when I turn the igniting on?? The releay at K6300 is not energized when the igniting is off. This relay will energize first when the igniting is turned on :dunno:

Thanks again for the reply

 

Didn't BMW have a recall on this?

 

I live in Sweden and I asked my local dealer about this and he said that they don't know anything about this and they have not heard anything from BMW about this

 

P0031, P0051, P0037, P0057 - Related to PCV heater failure

Just wanted to reinforce the Original Poster's discovery relating to O2 sensor errors resulting from the PCV Heater shorting out.

I was brought an e83 with N52 engine that had the CEL on and reported four O2 sensor errors. Further discovery narrowed the four errors to specifically the heating element of the O2 Sensor. It is rare if not impossible for all four O2 sensors to fail simultaneously.

Turns out BMW added the PCV Heater element to the same circuit as the O2 Sensor heaters. This is Fuse 04 in the DME box in the engine bay - now it will be located/or appear different on the various chassis but the wiring is identical across the different models/chassis, with the exception that on the e83 I was working the fuse is a 30amp whereas the e90 is showing a 10amp fuse (on diagrams anyway)

If you get these errors: P0031, P0051, P0037, P0057 - first thing to check is Fuse 04 in the engine bay electrical box. If it is blown then there is a good chance it is the PCV heater shorting out - This part has been recalled across many BMW models for this reason - if it doesn't blow the fuse it might catch fire.

I confirmed the PCV heater was the root by swapping in a good fuse and starting the car - new fuse blew and P00XX errors returned - I disconnected the PCV Heater harness, put another good fuse in and re-started - CEL was gone, fuse remained intact.

This car is now scheduled to get the new PCV Heater installed via recall work at Dealer in 6 weeks (earliest appointment available with a courtesy car).

Image 1 shows the scanned errors.

Image 2 shows the wiring schematic for the PCV heater on an e90

 

I have this problem in my x5 e70 2009 n52N engine.

P0012: "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0015: "B" Camshaft Position -Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0037: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0051: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0057: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

 

I have this problem in my x5 e70 2009 n52N engine.
P0012: "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0015: "B" Camshaft Position -Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0037: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0051: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0057: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

Does the Engine Start & Run? If NOT, test DME Main Relay (K6300) Function, and let us know if you need specific info.

See attached ISTA ScreenPrints for K6300 power supply to fuses F35 (Valve Gear & DME), F43 (O2 Sensor Heaters & OZS). Also ScreenPrints for Lambda Control & Valve Gear circuits are attached. The DME Relay also supplies power to the Crankshaft Sensor via F42. The Relay is activated by a Ground supplied by Pin #13 of Connector X60005 at the DME, and there is often a fault in that DME Pin, or the wiring/ connectors between DME & K6300 Relay. The small "87" above each of the fuses, F35, F42, F43 means the fuse is only powered if "Terminal 87" is active. Terminal 87 is the DME Main Relay, K6300.

I am NOT personally familiar with the X5 E70, but if I have the correct ISTA wiring diagrams (attached), YOUR model does NOT have a "Breather Heater" on the same fuse circuit with the O2 Sensor Heaters as the US E9x N52 does. INSTEAD, your OZS (Oil Condition Sensor) is the 5th component on that fuse, which is F43 on your model.

If you try to read Oil Level, do you get "Inactive" message or actual level?
Is fuse F43 blown? Is it getting B+ IN from K6300 DME Main Relay?

If F43 is blown, I would begin by examining, and testing for short/continuity to ground, the Orange wires in the F43 Voltage supply circuit, beginning with the OZS wiring.

The ONLY way I see any connection between the HO2 Faults & "Over-retarded" P0012 & P0015 Faults is if the K6300 relay is NOT activating, but check F35 which powers the Cam Sensors & VANOS Solenoids to see if it is intact and IF it is getting B+ from K6300.

If you have any Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) that can read either (1) Freeze Frame Data, or (2) Live Data/ Parameters, I would be interested in knowing if the Camshaft codes and O2 Sensor Heater Codes were saved in DME Memory at the SAME Mileage/km? I would also like to know if there are Cam Position Signals being received by the DME from EACH of the Cam Position Sensors (IF the engine starts). If the ISTA ScreenPrints I attached do NOT match your vehicle, please provide the Last-7 Characters of your VIN, and I'll "Re-visit" ISTA.
George