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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! X5 E70 M57
I am looking to rebuild the Turbo Charger Assembly (Small) OEM 11657811405.

it looks like there is a leak that started to form in the marked attachment. it's not bad, but it's definitely it started to leak and I am looking for a rebuild kit if you know of any.

Thanks
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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Son, you see to be picking the parts than nobody rebuilds. (Diesel injectors, turbos)

Send it out for a proper rebuild at a shop that can do the job right
 

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The leak could be from the oil feed or drain lines, they have failed for some.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I know, and I wish I wasn't in this postion

Son, you see to be picking the parts than nobody rebuilds. (Diesel injectors, turbos)

Send it out for a proper rebuild at a shop that can do the job right
@ard, I wish I wasn't in this position trust me and I am able to do that (take it to a shop); to have my primary car parked for that long in the garage and not being able to use it's not worth it. But here is the background of my story so hopefully you'll understand why I am here today asking for help:

I started this project only to apply liquid moly DPF cleaner with the purge in the PDF. When I was lifting up the car. I saw a bad leak by the flywheel (OMG sound effect). Luckily Sunny on this forum asked me to check the swivel Flaps. which indeed it turns out that I had a missing nut on the far end of the intake manifold near the wall under the windshield (uhh thank God that wasn't bad) while I was putting it back together I saw a leak by the EGR from the cooler. then I brought my endoscope camera and started going around the engine bay. I saw another leak by one of the cover casket bolts. and the turbo residue. I already have the cover casket part for it. but I didn't want to do it due to the bad stories and the youtube videos of stuck injectors. Sunny recommended a tool and I bought it to pull the injectors and thank God I did. the injectors were rusted and it took me 45 min to take injector #4(you know the rest of the story from the other thread). if I was the guy at the shop I would either ask the person to buy a new one or put back the same way I found them. so I reached out to you guys inquiring if they can be cleaned or not.

Throughout the way, things were stuck vacuum line were toasted what to expect I tell myself (9 years old car with close to 150K on it) to buy a new one and save on the headache of used one i will have to cough 65k (2019 G05 is Awesome I test drove it in a drive training setting, current speed projection on windshield, all digital, map is integrated in between speed and RPM; its pure beauty).

so, here I am trying to get my car on the road again. and trust me when I say this. without this forum, I wouldn't have even attempted to investigate the leak that started this project.

My boss at home (The wife) is supportive but I could read her mind saying I told you so (don't get a Diesel) God willing I will come out of this head high :) Again, thank you all, you don't know how valuable this is!!!!!
 

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Luckily for you they sell turbo center core (chra). Swap out the center part amd replace the o-ring seal and you***8217;re done. Comes already balanced. Google search m57 chra cartridge. Make sure it***8217;s your year model etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Turbo Info BW 54399880088 Semi-Turbocharger K39 (BV39)

Did some digging here is the 411 on these mini turbos they call them for anyone that is interested.

Manufactured by BorgWarner
part # 54399880088 Semi-Turbocharger K39 (BV39). (ref link)
http://www.turbodrive.ee/img/cms/BorgWarner-2018-07-02.pdf

Now that BV39 is the key to get something to pop up on the net. I came across a forum at tdiclube http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=483154 post # 2 mentioned that

"They are actually a "non repair" construction, as the VTG mechanics are fixed in the housing with a thin fine thread ring which bakes into the housing like crazy. It is almost impossible to remove the VTG mechanics without destroing the retaining ring, even when using the BorgWarner special tool for it, which clicks into the 3 notches in the retaining ring.
In general I personally even (or especially) as a professional turbo workshop do not repair those bv39 units anymore since a few years. The basic construction is weak, and prone to fail."



the outcome, very limited information, no available kit and it sounds like it's not DYI possible full rebuild.

Edit:
I came across this rebuild kit and gaskets FYI TC1077: reference
https://turbocentras.com/parts-catalog/2994-turbocharger-5439-970-0089.html
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Luckily for you they sell turbo center core (chra). Swap out the center part amd replace the o-ring seal and you're done. Comes already balanced. Google search m57 chra cartridge. Make sure it's your year model etc.
Thank you, do you know if BrogWarner makes them? or they are straight an aftermarket part?
 

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Not sure on that but you***8217;d be surprised with more research digging.
Bearings and internal are pretty basic. Most share the same parts and as far as i see in quality, they***8217;re just about the same.
Im about to rebuild my x5m turbo when the weather is warmer. Turbolabamerica got the kit for my vehicle. Contact them with some questions, im sure they can put you in the right direction.
 

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Ours is not vtg but uses a waste gate, I thought? Did you verify the leak wasn't from the oil lines themselves?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ours is not vtg but uses a waste gate, I thought? Did you verify the leak wasn't from the oil lines themselves?
I could be wrong, can you take a look at the attached images and let me know your thoughts?

Based on the illustrated diagram combined with the images. I believe Item # 12 failed caused a leak around the top of the return pipe, item # 5 in the illustration.. what is making me believe that could be a seal in the turbo because I see an oil residue traveled up a little by the conjunction wall image 6432 (1st image on the left of the illustration).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Not sure on that but you'd be surprised with more research digging.
Bearings and internal are pretty basic. Most share the same parts and as far as i see in quality, they're just about the same.
Im about to rebuild my x5m turbo when the weather is warmer. Turbolabamerica got the kit for my vehicle. Contact them with some questions, im sure they can put you in the right direction.
Thank you, I will call them up on Monday to confirm. I updated the previous post with a link to some spare parts I found. I am not sure if I will be up to taking it apart due to the special balancing requirements. but I listed it here as an FYI.
 

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From what you describe with the pictures, that's a leak on the return oil line gasket. No turbo rebuild required.

Pic 1 shows return on left, feed on right side... Again they can leak and dribble around.

Please first ask questions about what you see before coming to a diagnosis... just like the injectors which confused some of us. What do you see, how it's acting... Codes etc. Then we can help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
From what you describe with the pictures, that's a leak on the return oil line gasket. No turbo rebuild required.

Pic 1 shows return on left, feed on right side... Again they can leak and dribble around.

Please first ask questions about what you see before coming to a diagnosis... just like the injectors which confused some of us. What do you see, how it's acting... Codes etc. Then we can help.
noted! I assumed it is from the turbo due to the fact oil residue is slightly higher up and if it was coming from the return line the oil would have to travel up against gravity to show up there. but again will make sure to ask first and no more assumptions! Truly appreciate it Robintro!!!
 

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Just wondering how your repair came out. I'm planning on doing a little verification this weekend, but my local independent mechanic diagnosed a bad turbo on my '09 diesel. (oil leaking from lower hose connection at intercooler) In my experience, that's usually a sign of a bad turbo seal, but I'm not sure where the pcv gases come back into the intake stream. I'm kicking myself for not installing a coalescing trap on the system. I've seen how well they work on big diesel engines. Anyway I welcome suggestions from this auspicious group on tricks for diagnosis and repair. If possible, I'd like to just change the cartridges if one or both are actually passing oil.
 

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No it's most likely not the turbo unless your oil level is going down fast. every car that uses the stock ccv will have oil buildup and it leaks out because the seals on that hose leak with time.

Pcv gases come in to the big turbo inlet which feeds the smaller turbo and then the intake. At higher rpm the intake flow bypasses the small turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Just wondering how your repair came out. I'm planning on doing a little verification this weekend, but my local independent mechanic diagnosed a bad turbo on my '09 diesel. (oil leaking from lower hose connection at intercooler) In my experience, that's usually a sign of a bad turbo seal, but I'm not sure where the pcv gases come back into the intake stream. I'm kicking myself for not installing a coalescing trap on the system. I've seen how well they work on big diesel engines. Anyway I welcome suggestions from this auspicious group on tricks for diagnosis and repair. If possible, I'd like to just change the cartridges if one or both are actually passing oil.
I have been tackling another issue (I believe that I have head gasket leak) I have a stuck bolt in the exhaust upper connection pipe that is delaying the entire project) back to the turbo;

check this link
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1326169

now I believe the main issue with the turbo is the seals (see attachment); looking at the forum mentioned above you'll that it's far easier if you disassemble the turbo (hot (that connects to the exhaust) and cold (the one with oil return) to get it out; now that's a very tricky part. in my case, they were stuck which shouldn't be the case. the link above has more detail. if you decided to tackle the job.

I haven't done this but sharing with you to save you some time if you decided to do this job.

if the metal type seal is damaged you can try to replace it with
CUSTOM EXHAUST GASKETS (in theory it should work) below is how to from Napaonline
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/how-to-make-custom-exhaust-gaskets/

the bolts between hot and cold referenced above; in my case, they were stuck and I heard a big pop when they started to turn. one out of the 3 almost got rounded. so replace them with a better one. They are m6-1.0 x 12mm make sure you get bolts that fall in the 10.9 class (Autozone has them for like $7 for 6 bolts). I believe the existing ones could be a class 8 which indicates why they were so fragile.

Now the only thing that I am missing is the o-ring size from the cold side. I will need to take it apart to find out the size of the o ring and play with it. if you run a search for "m57 chra cartridge" you'll see the cartridge comes with the o-ring but it makes no sense to buy the whole thing for just an o-ring.

I have reached out to many folks all over to see if they have these type of parts but they don't. I came across a supplier from the UK that has the specs of this turbo and everything we need but I have to be a business to buy from them.

I hope this information helps you and my apologies for my delayed response, I needed to be in front of a computer to load the pics.
 

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Just wondering how your repair came out. I'm planning on doing a little verification this weekend, but my local independent mechanic diagnosed a bad turbo on my '09 diesel. (oil leaking from lower hose connection at intercooler) In my experience, that's usually a sign of a bad turbo seal, but I'm not sure where the pcv gases come back into the intake stream. I'm kicking myself for not installing a coalescing trap on the system. I've seen how well they work on big diesel engines. Anyway I welcome suggestions from this auspicious group on tricks for diagnosis and repair. If possible, I'd like to just change the cartridges if one or both are actually passing oil.
Your turbos are fine. That is just normal PCV mess. The red boost hose has replaceable seals. Mine were leaking a lot of oil when they went bad a few years ago. Part #2 and 3.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FF03-USA-01-2009-E70-BMW-X5_35d&diagId=11_4158
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Your turbos are fine. That is just normal PCV mess. The red boost hose has replaceable seals. Mine were leaking a lot of oil when they went bad a few years ago. Part #2 and 3.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FF03-USA-01-2009-E70-BMW-X5_35d&diagId=11_4158
That's true but to get to the other O rings attached to the turbo will require removing the AT turbo, therefore, I recommend sharing some pictures with the folks on here to help identify the problem better otherwise it's all guesses. I recommend getting an endoscope camera that will help to get a better look and identify the source of the problem; a cheap one from Amazon will save you big time. Also, clean up the oil real nice then start tackling the issue from there, when the leak is fresh it will help identify the source better. being patient is a key, take it one step at a time.
 

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That's true but to get to the other O rings attached to the turbo will require removing the AT turbo, therefore, I recommend sharing some pictures with the folks on here to help identify the problem better otherwise it's all guesses. I recommend getting an endoscope camera that will help to get a better look and identify the source of the problem; a cheap one from Amazon will save you big time. Also, clean up the oil real nice then start tackling the issue from there, when the leak is fresh it will help identify the source better. being patient is a key, take it one step at a time.
Just to be clear, red hose o rings can be changed without removing the turbo. The other o rings generally don't leak. I did have a leak at the drain tube that made a mess so you might want to check there also.
 
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