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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Picked up an '04 E83 with 137K miles for my son a couple months ago.
It has some roof drain issues which, we got squared away.
We added an aux input to the radio so he can listen to his tunes.
Other than that, no worries till now.

I noticed some driveline vibrations which made me think U-joint. It wasn't terrible, but noticeable.

Then, CEL comes on.
Then, the "Triad" of lights come on 4x4/ABS/Brake.

I guess its time to do some work. Here is the plan:
1. Check/clean the ABS sensors and reluctor wheels.
2. Pull transfer case actuator and inspect the gear. Done, and found it to be slightly damaged. Ordered "BMW" repair kit from FCP
3. Replace transfer case fluid. Ordered BMW DTF1 from FCP
4. Check transfer case/transmission mount. Rubber is cracked. Center metal part looks to be pulling out. Ordered "Lemforder" from FCP
5. Noticed rear u-joint on front driveshaft is junk. Will either buy new shaft or look into repair.
6. Will replace oil seal on front of transfer case.
7. Noticed rear u-joint on rear driveshaft had red rust. Joint has some play, not destroyed yet but, needs fixed. Will look into new or repair.
8. Will install new center support bearing. Ordered "BMW" from FCP
9. Will install new giubo/flex joint. Ordered "Febi" from FCP
10. Front and rear diff fluid change. Ordered "BMW" drain plugs from FCP
11. Will check ATF fluid level and add Valvoline full synthetic DEX VI if needed.

Any other things I should be looking at while I'm under here?
 

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I guess number 7 may answer my question in your other thread.

You mentioned a roof leak? What did find to be the cause of yours?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I guess number 7 may answer my question in your other thread.

You mentioned a roof leak? What did find to be the cause of yours?
Didn't see you question in another thread? Edit-saw it

As far as roof leak, it seems the roof drains just needed cleared out. The rear ones in particular.
Not the easiest to access. We pulled the read headliner down a bit to disconnect the drains up high and pulled some panels in the back of the car so we could disconnect the tubes down low at the fitting where they exit the car.

Its been dry since cleaning all the tubes and the sunroof track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I contemplated buying some u-joints and installing them @ home, welding some washers in there over the bearing cap to hold in place, and then take somewhere to have balanced.
GMB Part # 220-1670 is available from Rock Auto for less than $10. From what I've read, these u-joints can be made to work.

I backed out of the DIY idea and ordered new front, and rear driveshafts from Wholesale Import Parts. Didn't feel like paying for expedited shipping so, looks like I'll be waiting about 10 days to get them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Made a little progress today.

Installed the transfer case servo motor repair kit.

Removed old transfer case bushing and installed new.

Replaced transfer case oil seal at output shaft for front driveshaft

Transfer case fluid change

Drained front diff and engine oil.

Replaced oil filter

Replaced air filter

Broke air intake elbow‐ a few steps forward and 1 step back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Didn't spend much time on the car today. Finished the front diff oil change, engine oil change, put the stiffening plate back in, dug up some fasteners for the under body shield as it was missing quite a few.

Did a temp repair on the airbox intake elbow and reinstalled. We'll see how it holds up.

Dropped the spare tire and the plastic holder so I could acces the rear diff fill plug. I read/saw somewhere that the rear diff doesn't have a drain, fill only, fluid needs sucked out the fill hole.

I found that to be incorrect. Mine has a drain.

I was pleasantly surprised at the condition of the oil in both front and rear diff's. Very clean looking and not much darker than new oil.

Can't say the same about the transfer case.
 

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The drain plug seems to vary, but looks like the earlier models have drains. Glad yours had one. Mine doesn’t.


Via the interwebs
 

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Yet another hate for the 2007 , back to you Duke….

:):cool:

it’s a bit of a pig to access the drain on the -2006 with the carrier in place. I had a frozen bolt up high which I couldn’t get off, but finally got it out this summer with one of those cool Irwin bolt grabbers. Put a cheapie SS back in place, with lots of Ni Antiseize by Ford

now the diff change is simple.
 

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Yeah the lack of drain plug on the LCI is certainly an annoyance, but a piece of steel tube bent 45* with a pump attached gets the job done. At least it’s better than an Aisin 6 speed that VW uses; that has a drain hole but no fill hole.

That guy who told you about the Ford secret sauce must really know what he’s taking about, you love it so much.

Mike, what fluids did you go with for the diffs and power divider? Did you find the bushing replacement to be a pain? I pressed mine in with a similar tool made of 1/8” angle, but even so, it bent. Version 1.0 broke. I suspect the bushing I used may have been at the high end of manufacturing tolerance; I should have put it in the freezer first, but once it was halfway in, I’d crossed my event horizon. My old one at nearly 180k looked in better shape than your old one, but I did notice a definite difference with the new one.

Nice work.

Via the interwebs
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mike, what fluids did you go with for the diffs and power divider? Did you find the bushing replacement to be a pain? I pressed mine in with a similar tool made of 1/8” angle, but even so, it bent. Version 1.0 broke. I suspect the bushing I used may have been at the high end of manufacturing tolerance; I should have put it in the freezer first, but once it was halfway in, I’d crossed my event horizon. My old one at nearly 180k looked in better shape than your old one, but I did notice a definite difference with the new one.

Nice work.

Via the interwebs
For the transfer case, I got BMW DTF1.
For the differentials, Valvoline Synpower 75-90

Bushing replacement wasn't the easiest endeavor ever. I built the puller and installer from scrap I have lying around in the shop. The all thread was 3/8" stainless steel. Even with liberal lubrication, I could feel the threads galling when I really started to torque on it. I don't think I'll be able to re-use the all thread for any future jobs but, everything else faired well.

Pulling it wasn't too bad. I used a bottle jack under the lower bolt of the puller to keep it from slipping off since there isn't much metal below the bushing for that lower bolt to sit on.

Installation was tough. The bore in the transfer case housing was cleaned with scotchbrite, the bushing put in the freezer, white lithium grease applied. A block of wood cut roughly into the shape of the bushing was used to press it in. The block of wood had a relief hole in the center so the metal snout of the bushing wasn't being pressed against. Near the end, shims were placed between the case and the backing plate to get a straight pull. After the puller was off, a steel plate was placed over the corner of the bushing and a LARGE C-clamp used to squeeze in just a touch at the 4 o'clock position (from behind looking forward).
 

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Good deal. Mine went similarly except for the freezing of the bushing, which I should have. To remove, I think I just ran a hacksaw blade through it from the center out, used a chisel to bend up the edge and pulled it out by hand. I don’t remember it taking more than a few minutes. The installation was a different story; first time using doubled 1/8” flat stock bent 45* and bottomed out on the bushing. Version 2.0 used angle iron, with a piece of 1/8” flat stock (one from above bent straight in a press), but it still started to bow slightly. I’d started with 3/8 all thread but sheared it tightening the press nut, so version 2.1 of the tool saw 1/2” all thread, after enlarging the holes in the drill press. I used a piece from my N series front crank seal removal/installation tool kit as a cup to grab the outer ring of the bushing; it fit near-perfectly. The bore was of coarse scrubbed with scotchbrite and I used Ford moly grease for lubricity. If I’d have frozen the bushing, it probably would have went smoother.


Via the interwebs
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Spent some time in the garage today. Most of it was on othdr projects but tended to the X3 for just a bit. I added a new drain plug to the rear diff and then filled it up with fresh valvoline synpower 75-90. Once that was done, I cleaned out the spare tire carrier, aired up the spare tire, and reinstalled.

When pulling the driveshsft, I noticed a ground strap on the exhaust was broke. I ordered a replacement for it, and the strap up near the stiffening plate. Digi-Key has some Molex brand straps that seem pretty heavy duty.

Got a tracking number on the driveshafts. Looking like they should be here right before I go on my ATV riding trip next week. Not sure if I'll get the time to install them before I leave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Both driveshafts were delivered yesterday. Got the front and installed after work. Looked pretty identical to OE equipment other than the u-joints can be replaced.

Reinstalled the heat shield. Added fender washers on some of those fasteners as OE fasteners had actually pulled through the shield.

Replaced the ground strap to the exhaust. It noticed it was broken before the project started. The welded stud on the exhaust that the strap attaches to was sheared off. Ended up drilling right thru it and using 1/4" SS hardware to attach the new strap to the exhaust. The strap I bought has pretty wide, and flat crimps on the end. OEM had a 90 degree lug where it attached to the chassis. I ended up filing the end of my strap to fit the chassis attachment point properly. Once tightened up, it yielded into place nicely.

Went to replace the ground strap that is by the engine, up under the stiffener plate. When loosening the bolt, the whole tab it is bolted through sheared right off the engine. I did use an impact on it but, it took very little force. It must have been barely hanging on for a long time. The tab that broke off looked pretty oxidized at the break area. Just a very fine line of clean looking metal. I saw a few threaded holes in the engine block nearby. I ran a 8mm cleanup tap in the hole as far as I dared. Grabbed a long 8mm S.S bolt I had and cut the end off. Used it as a stud and screwed it into the engine block. Inspected the old strap and found it to be in pretty nice shape. It wasn't a flat braided strap, it was a piece of heavy, flexible wire. About #2AWG. Seemed like DLO construction. Had a BMW tag on it. The insulation was damaged in about a 2" spot but the wire didn't look corroded. I put some HD heat shrink over it, cleaned up the lugs with a scotchbrite wheel on the dremel, and reinstalled. I also installed a new ground strap over top of the old. Had to reroute things a little to make it reach but, seems to be good.

Dropped a tire off to have a slow leak repaired. Will pick up on the way home and hopefully get this thing off the jack stands tonight. I was thinking about changing the transmission fluid but, I'd like to get it out of the garage since I've got a list of other things to do right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My son put the tire on and buttoned up a few other things and took it for a ride. Said the light trio is gone and it felt smooth.
 
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