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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Edit - read down through the last posts. They will actually be helpful.

OK - here goes. 2008 535xi with 150K miles. In the last year put $7000 in repairs and maintenance figuring no more problems could happen. So in the last 2 days car has had 2 yellow slow down car overheating warnings. Car runs perfect. I have never seen the warnings, the kids were driving.

At 75K miles the car did this, then the next trip got the red pull over now warning. It was CPO so they towed it and put on a new water pump.

Did some research and found that the pumps tend to go, so before I called the dealer/indy for repair I thought I would do the pump myself. Watched the video from Bavauto. Looked simple enough. Read a few forum posts. Ordered the parts from Warehouse33 from $450 for pump, thermostat, hose, bolts, and coolant.

Got home and put car on ramps. Had son remove panels. It looked nothing like the bavaut o video. So found a post where someone mentioned removing a frame support piece - so had son do this. And still did not recognize anything. Read to the end of a few posts her and found that the e60 xi's are a different animal.

Debated about buttoning back up and sending to the dealer.

But - and here is where it gets interesting - I replaced the drive belt and pulleys last month. And I stripped the torx thing on the new tensioner - so I put the old one back on.

Had they kids lay on the ground and stick their hands around the pump/thermostat and I could see it from above.

So my plan is to replace the tensioner pulley - and if this works I will have the easiest water pump replacement ever.

So I will try to add pics - but here goes - and I have 3-4 days to get it off until the new parts get here

Step 1 - put on ramps

Step 2- remove both plastic underbody panel.

Step 3 - remove metal bracket underneat

Next - remove oil cooler (following pelican parts description)- this is where I am now. I will try to do pics and I will update the thread with progress.

Step 5 - remove radiator support with 10 torx screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok here we go into uncharted territory

Step 6 reamove cooling fan from pelican article remove oil cooler

Step 7 remove front air charge from pelican article about removing this

Step 8 remove bolt holding cooler line - can the this at the beginning of the bavauto video

Step 9 remove hose from top of thermostat
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK that sucked. And I mean sucked. At this point if the dealer charged me $1000 I would have let them do it.

There is no access. to anyone who has done this without taking out all the stuff I did, kudos to you.

I have everything off and apart now. If anyone has any advice for reinstall I would appreciate it.

I now understand how they did ti when the dealer replaced it at 75K miles. The orientation of the clamps made no sense.

Anyway - so here is what I did. After the above steps I removed the water pump bolts and removed the bolts holding the thermostat to the water pump. You have no access to the hose between the thermostat and the pump. But after loosening the thermostat I could get it far enough to get to the back of it and remove the hose. Once I got the thermostat out I could disconnect the hose to the pump from the engine. Then the pump came out with the hose attached.

Reinstall is going to be interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So to recap for beginners

Replace the water pump/thermostats is a total of 2 electrical connections, 5 bolts, and 6 hose connections.

Sounds easy? Well its not. The 535xi has frame in the area of half of the connections so you cant see them. If I had to do it again I would pay the dealer.

So this is a description of the correct order to remove everything

1 - remove radiator fan and oil cooler lines (good write up with pics on pelican)

2 - remove front air charge (again, good write up on pelican)

3 - remove 2 hoses from thermostat that connect with clips - they are easy to get to

4 - from above - remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat to the water pump

5 - remove the electrical line from the termostat

6 - remove 3 bolts from water pump

7 - loosen the hose clamp on the line from the engine to the water pump

8 - you can now move the water pump and thermostat forward - during this process the line from the engine to the pump will come off

9 - when you get it forward enough you can get to the clamp at the back of the thermostat and the hose will come off

10 - remove the thermostat - there is still one hose connected but it will come out with the thermostat far enough to easily get it off

11 - remove water pump with the hose still connected in the back - and as you are pulling it out you will see the electrical connection at the back

This took me hours to figure out the correct sequence - I could do it now in an hour - if anyone is in akron and needs help feel free to stop by. You can borrow my tools and I will guide you through the procedd
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now for the reinstall

1 - connect the hose that goes between the pump and the thermostat to the back of the pump

2 - put pump in place in engine - while doing this connect the electrical connection - and make sure the wire comes out between the thermostat and the pump

3 - connect small hose to thermostat

4 - pull water pump out far enough to connect the hose to the back of the thermostat

5 - put pump in place - during this process you will have difficulty but you will be able to get the hose from the engine on the pump

6 - put in bolts for thermostat and bolt in place

That is where I stopped. Took 2 hours to get back into this point. but I opened the clamp on the hose from the engine to pump too much and could not tighten it so I have to remove everything and start over.

Should be able to button it up tomorrow.
 

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Thanks for sharing your experience. Makes me want to sell my car today, before the pump fails for the first time. But then, I doubt I could look the buyer in the eyes. Bummer! :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The first time sucked. But now I can change the belt, tensioner, water pump, and thermostat in 2 - 3 hours total. I know how the dealers make so much $$$. It cost me $450 in parts and they pay less and if they pay the mech $40/hour they are still making serious cash. I think they wanted something like $1200.
 

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Boland01
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Thanks for the write up. I'm sure I'll be in the same situation one day too. Right now I'm only at 28K miles so hopefully it will be a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For those following at home...

went to put back on the front air cahrge and could not get it, so I thought if I disconnected the hose from the thermostat to the head I could just slip it in easy.

So I did that, and broke it.

To the dealer incleveland - 40 minutes from me - they had one in stock. Got there at 12:59 and they close at 1:00. But when I talked to the guy on the phone he said he would stay a few minutes late if needed (Shout out to BMW Cleveland)

But...the hose connection on the thermostat is the one that you put in out of the car because you can not see it in place. So...the thermostat and waterpump came back out.

I was pissed until I saw the hose the went from the water pump to the thermostat. It was on crooked. I missed it the first time. SO by breaking a piece by accident I fixed a place where it was going to leak.

So this is now my third time taking it apart. I can do it now it 30 minutes or less.

Hopefully I can get it to go back in place this time and actually finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK - just got the hard stuff done.

Should be smooth sailing from here on out. I have learned a lot. My sequence for replacement is correct but there are a few pointers.

The electrical attachment to the pump needs to come out over the pump and inside the hose that connects to the pump. Wish it was possible to get pics of this. Anyway. Time to tighten bolts and get it back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The deed is done. And I only have 5 bolts left over.

No leaks now. Had a couple first fill. just took a test drive. Engine temp moved between 96 and 101. I will have to do some research and see if that is normal.

So expenses

water pump, thermostat, coolant, and hose - $450
new rad cap - $20
Hose from head to thermostat - $50
O-rings for oil cooler lines - $15

Time

Last Sunday all day taking everything apart - 12 hours - but also cleaned the garage, ate, ran errands, etc - probably bout 4 hours working on car
Friday night - 3 hours
Sat - 12 hours - again cleaned, ate, went to the dealer twice - probably spend 6 hours under the car

So 13 hours total - but I took it apart, put it together, took it apart again to get fix a clamp, put it back together, took it apart again to replace the hose to the head, and put it together again.

When I catch my breath I will post a longer write up with pics.

But the moral of the story is a 535xi is not a 535 or a 335.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Testing done. I actually fixed it. No leaks. And with the temp hack I got to watch the temp. These electric waterpumps and computer mgmt are cool. When cruising and driving in traffic the temp is 99-105. But when I get aggressive with it temp drops to 95. Thought this was a problem, but after reading some other stuff I saw that the computer controls the engine temp depending upon driving. 105 is the temp for economy and lower when sport driving.

Awesome car.
 

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The deed is done. And I only have 5 bolts left over.

snip

But the moral of the story is a 535xi is not a 535 or a 335.
Thanks! This kind of info will really help a lot of xi owners. :thumbup::thumbup:
 

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Reassembly 535xi - Sequence help....

Now for the reinstall

1 - connect the hose that goes between the pump and the thermostat to the back of the pump

2 - put pump in place in engine - while doing this connect the electrical connection - and make sure the wire comes out between the thermostat and the pump

3 - connect small hose to thermostat

4 - pull water pump out far enough to connect the hose to the back of the thermostat

5 - put pump in place - during this process you will have difficulty but you will be able to get the hose from the engine on the pump

6 - put in bolts for thermostat and bolt in place

That is where I stopped. Took 2 hours to get back into this point. but I opened the clamp on the hose from the engine to pump too much and could not tighten it so I have to remove everything and start over.

Should be able to button it up tomorrow.
FIRST OF ALL, I ECHO dgjks6 SENTIMENTS ABOUT THE JOB, THIS IS ONE OF THE WORST AND MOST CHALLENGING REPAIRS I HAVE EVER TACKLED IN 40 YEARS OF TURNING WRENCHS ON MY PERSONAL CARS. UNLESS YOU'RE A GLUTTON FOR PUNISHMENT, PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO THIS JOB!

Anyway, I'm having the biggest trouble on reassembly. I tried reassembling WP and TS out of the car with the "U" hose installed but then I was having no luck attaching engine hose to WP/TS assembly. Is this possible and I'm missing something?

So I tried installing WP with "U" hose installed & tightened on "WP" and was able to install and tighten the fixed engine hose, but not able to figure out a place to tighten the second clamp on "U" hose to the TS.

So now I'm about to start over. :(

This time I'm going to try this sequence: Install WP w/o "U" hose. Secure engine hose. Preinstall "U" hose on TS and tighten. Finally, attempt to fish TS with "U" hose up and under the WP and tighten second "U" clamp from an access area below betweem the sub-frame and steering rack. Hopefully that works!

Any other DIY'ers out there that have had success with this repair on a 535xi, with other reassembly tips to share?

None of the 530 and e90 guides are even close to the task the 535xi presents.

Any pointers would be most welcome!!!
 

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Did you ever figure this out? I am in your boat. If I have the U-hose installed (pump to thermostat), I can't get the hose from the engine to the pump connected. Essentially his step 5 - "put pump in place - during this process you will have difficulty but you will be able to get the hose from the engine on the pump."

I get it close but I don't have room to maneuver the hose onto the connection. Is there a trick?
 

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WORST. REPAIR. EVER!!!!

7 hours just trying to get it apart. Success removing old stuff. MANY F bombs.

2 hours into reassembly. Have pump in (not bolted yet), both hoses attached.

Cannot figure out any way to reattach big hose clamp to TS. Had to pull on it to access it to remove it, but you can't pull on it when it's not already tight. Have fender liners all off, doesn't matter. I did remove the pressure line from the turbo to the IC, I do recommend that but haven't seen others mention it.

DO NOT attempt this job unless you absolutely hate yourself.

EDIT: Finished getting the pump and TS installed. Hard part is over, still have to bleed and reassemble everything else.

There are not many tricks to this, it just SUCKS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok. So I just replaced the oil pan gasket. What does this have to do with the water pump you ask. And here is the key...

You can drop the sub frame a couple inches without much effort. You have to disconnect the engine mounts but not much else.


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest
 

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lol welcome to bmw..

pray and be grateful that you have never been cursed with the 21hour billable timing job of the m62...

i can tell you one thing.. if a job gives 21 hours of billable time, and you have not ever done it b4.. you will be working for free...

These cars are designed to be maintained *although i find the strait 6 motors to be harder to wrench on then the v8's

bmw in general is a ez car to work on, if you except the German way,


all of the i6's need the engine lifted to do a oil pan.. or you can drop the subframe, how ever you want to do it and how ever your comfee doing it..

this goes back to the 3 series of the 80's
 

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Just did this job myself. If I hadn***8217;t read this forum, I would have thought it wasn***8217;t possible. Worst job ever! Took me 10 hours. But after I discover a hose clamp got cocked and I had a leak, the 2nd time only took me 5. I was going to change the oil housing gasket while everything was drained, but discovered that is a big PITA too! This has made me reconsider owning this car.
 
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