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Slave to the Details
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Yup. This one sucks. Mine died at 97,500 miles. Feel like I was cheated of the last 2.5k miles. Follow dgjks6's steps in post #4 and you'll be okay. The more interference you can clear out, the better.
 

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Hi All, I purchased a 2008 535xi, and within a few months, my water pump died and left me stranded. Quote from an independent mechanic I used before was $1500 for replacement. Luckily this tread has a pretty good description of what to do. If you follow post #4, it isn't too bad.

Here are my notes to post #4 for anyone else thinking of doing this.

First, purchase swivel u-joint socket extensions, you absolutely need these for some of the bolts and hose clamps. A racketing metric combination wrench will also help. A set of mechanics picks will also go a long way to help open clips on plastic coolant hose connections.

Step 0. Jack up front passenger side of car and place on jack stands. Remove lower splash guard from car. I also printed out the guides from pelican parts.

Notes from post #4:

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1 - remove radiator fan and oil cooler lines (good write up with pics on pelican)

Followed this post on pelican, fairly easy, but purchase replacement O-rings. Note, my 08 535XI did not have the AUC sensor as show in step 6, so I skipped that part.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...74-ENGINE-N54_Engine_Oil_Cooler_Replacing.htm

2 - remove front air charge (again, good write up on pelican)

This was fairly straight forward, but took quite a bit of force to wiggle everything out.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...FUEL-N54_Engine_Charge_Air_Duct_Replacing.htm

3 - remove 2 hoses from thermostat that connect with clips - they are easy to get to

Straightforward, the easiest part of the job.

4 - from above - remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat to the water pump

5 - remove the electrical line from the termostat

This has to be done from below.

6 - remove 3 bolts from water pump

This has to be done from below. The furthest bolt cannot be accessed using an E12 socket do to proximity to the sub-frame. I used a 10 mm 16 point combination wrench and painstakingly backed out the bolt one eighth turn at a time. If I was to do this again, I would purchase a 10 mm ratcheting combination wrench.

7 - loosen the hose clamp on the line from the engine to the water pump

8 - you can now move the water pump and thermostat forward - during this process the line from the engine to the pump will come off

9 - when you get it forward enough you can get to the clamp at the back of the thermostat and the hose will come off

10 - remove the thermostat - there is still one hose connected but it will come out with the thermostat far enough to easily get it off

11 - remove water pump with the hose still connected in the back - and as you are pulling it out you will see the electrical connection at the back

This took me hours to figure out the correct sequence - I could do it now in an hour - if anyone is in akron and needs help feel free to stop by. You can borrow my tools and I will guide you through the proceed
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It is not as bad as I thought, if I did it again, I could probably do the entire process of removal and install in a whole Saturday.

I note that I am still getting errors P2EF7, P2E83, and P2E85, despite my water pump working (verified visually and through INPA) and my engine temperature remaining stable... While AWD and a turbo is fun, once I sort out those errors I will sell the car and search for a 530i with reliable M54.
 

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2010 e61 535i xDrive
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14 Posts
Thank you guys for posting all of the helpful information. I am planning to tackle the water pump and thermostat replacement in my e61 535xi this weekend.
 

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The deed is done. And I only have 5 bolts left over.

No leaks now. Had a couple first fill. just took a test drive. Engine temp moved between 96 and 101. I will have to do some research and see if that is normal.

So expenses

water pump, thermostat, coolant, and hose - $450
new rad cap - $20
Hose from head to thermostat - $50
O-rings for oil cooler lines - $15

Time

Last Sunday all day taking everything apart - 12 hours - but also cleaned the garage, ate, ran errands, etc - probably bout 4 hours working on car
Friday night - 3 hours
Sat - 12 hours - again cleaned, ate, went to the dealer twice - probably spend 6 hours under the car

So 13 hours total - but I took it apart, put it together, took it apart again to get fix a clamp, put it back together, took it apart again to replace the hose to the head, and put it together again.

When I catch my breath I will post a longer write up with pics.

But the moral of the story is a 535xi is not a 535 or a 335.
Good work Mr ! :thumbup::thumbup: Doing it yourself really pays off .
 

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2010 e61 535i xDrive
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Overall, I thought this job was relatively straight forward. I expect, though, that were I pioneering the DIY like many that posted to this thread before me, I may have had a tougher time. There was no drain valve or plug in my radiator (2010 e61 535xi 6MT), which the online community suggests is unit-specific (i.e. your particular car may differ from the next). Intercooler, oil cooler, and radiator came out, which provided plenty of room (and allowed for washing of the radiator). The most challenging part was getting the pump/thermostat assembly back into position, due to the block-to-pump hose and tight working space.

Thanks again to all posters for the help with this DIY. It will be useful to know how to get the pump/thermostat out again when I have to change the turbos.
 

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There is one but you have to remove the intercooler to access it. Which I don't think is needed for removing the water pump; and somehow useless since there is going to remain coolant lower (the pump is more or less the lower level of the system).

Here is my video about how to replace it easily.

Note: your collars might not be align as mine. In such a case, you might have to separate the thermostat from the pump and find your way a bit more. But for sure, you want to line them up properly for next time (if you're unlucky and have to go there once again).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Dvs9oVCGdo
 

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Does anyone have the part numbers for the 2 different o-rings needed for the oil cooler lines. I am now losing a lot of oil and think it is from these lines. I have searched everywhere and can only find the part number for the lower line.

Is this diagram #2 is part# 17227558508

Does anyone know the part number for #4?

A separate issue, I am still getting codes P2E83, and P2E85 almost every-time I drive, but even with these errors the water pump is working perfectly. I have tested the pump by doing the auto-bleed procedure, and checking and changing the speed with INPA. Even with the above errors, it appears to work. I'm stumped here.
 

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Oil cooler line O'Ring...
The 4 of them (both hoses, both ends) are the same.

I'm replacing mine using O'Rings from industrial harware store (O'Ring, bearing, ... supplier).
O'Rings are size 015 (double check, but that's what I have in note). Make sure to get material that resists heat and engine oil (I think it's Viton). Note that for oil coller hose, the O'ring size are in the inch system (not metric, mostly if not all of other ones on the car are metric)

Hope it helps
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 116K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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(I think it's Viton).
Viton brand FKM synthetic rubber and fluoropolymer elastomer O-rings should be color coded / have a green mark on them.
 

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Just tackled this...you guys aren't kidding. My only advice is to take the 20 mins to drop the subframe down a few inches. Makes the install so so much easier. Hours saved. Should have done it as step 1.
 

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Just got done with this job as a preventative maintenance because I did not know how old the pump was.

I must say that this was a tough one. I found this thread after failing to install the pump and thermostat 3 times.

I am not sure I would have been able to do it if it were not for the assembly instructions earlier in this thread.

I did not remove the air intake tube that connects to the turbo.

I don't know how much is involved in dropping the subframe, but I would certainly consider dropping it a few inches if I had to do this again (which I pray I don't).

Ugh, what a pain.
 

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Lahoriya E60 528xi
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5 Posts
I'm in a predicament. I've been able to remove the old thermostat on my 2010 528xi E60. But the water pump and the "U" hose is still stuck and I am unable to remove it. I see the clamp holding it back, but the flat-head screw is not at an easy angle for me to get to, to loosen it, and then remove it. Is there another way of getting to that screw that's holding the last hose connected to the car assembly.

Your help is much appreciated, as I feel I'm pretty much stuck at this point.
 

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Lahoriya E60 528xi
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5 Posts
Hi All, I purchased a 2008 535xi, and within a few months, my water pump died and left me stranded. Quote from an independent mechanic I used before was $1500 for replacement. Luckily this tread has a pretty good description of what to do. If you follow post #4, it isn't too bad.

Here are my notes to post #4 for anyone else thinking of doing this.

First, purchase swivel u-joint socket extensions, you absolutely need these for some of the bolts and hose clamps. A racketing metric combination wrench will also help. A set of mechanics picks will also go a long way to help open clips on plastic coolant hose connections.

Step 0. Jack up front passenger side of car and place on jack stands. Remove lower splash guard from car. I also printed out the guides from pelican parts.

Notes from post #4:

-------

1 - remove radiator fan and oil cooler lines (good write up with pics on pelican)

Followed this post on pelican, fairly easy, but purchase replacement O-rings. Note, my 08 535XI did not have the AUC sensor as show in step 6, so I skipped that part.
BMW E60 5-Series Oil Cooler Replacement (N54 Engine) - Pelican Parts Technical Article

2 - remove front air charge (again, good write up on pelican)

This was fairly straight forward, but took quite a bit of force to wiggle everything out.
BMW E60 5-Series N54 Engine Charge Air Duct Replacing - Pelican Parts Technical Article

3 - remove 2 hoses from thermostat that connect with clips - they are easy to get to

Straightforward, the easiest part of the job.

4 - from above - remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat to the water pump

5 - remove the electrical line from the termostat

This has to be done from below.

6 - remove 3 bolts from water pump

This has to be done from below. The furthest bolt cannot be accessed using an E12 socket do to proximity to the sub-frame. I used a 10 mm 16 point combination wrench and painstakingly backed out the bolt one eighth turn at a time. If I was to do this again, I would purchase a 10 mm ratcheting combination wrench.

7 - loosen the hose clamp on the line from the engine to the water pump

8 - you can now move the water pump and thermostat forward - during this process the line from the engine to the pump will come off

9 - when you get it forward enough you can get to the clamp at the back of the thermostat and the hose will come off

10 - remove the thermostat - there is still one hose connected but it will come out with the thermostat far enough to easily get it off

11 - remove water pump with the hose still connected in the back - and as you are pulling it out you will see the electrical connection at the back

This took me hours to figure out the correct sequence - I could do it now in an hour - if anyone is in akron and needs help feel free to stop by. You can borrow my tools and I will guide you through the proceed
----------

It is not as bad as I thought, if I did it again, I could probably do the entire process of removal and install in a whole Saturday.

I note that I am still getting errors P2EF7, P2E83, and P2E85, despite my water pump working (verified visually and through INPA) and my engine temperature remaining stable... While AWD and a turbo is fun, once I sort out those errors I will sell the car and search for a 530i with reliable M54.
I am un able to remove the U-pipe while it's still connected to both the T-stat and water pump. I believe there's a hidden clamp holding a hose back in there. And for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to remove it. Any tips would be much appreciated.
 

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2006 530xi 6 MT
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5,234 Posts
I am un able to remove the U-pipe while it's still connected to both the T-stat and water pump. I believe there's a hidden clamp holding a hose back in there. And for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to remove it. Any tips would be much appreciated.
I have a 2006 530xi with the N52 engine...you have the same engine. The U hose has a clamp on each side. In addition to a flat blade screwdriver, the clamp has an 8 mm (I think it's 8) hex head. Yes, the clamps are the hardest part of changing the water pump and thermostat. If you are also replacing the water pump, just unbolt it with the hose attached and you should be able to get a better angle to the clamp. If you aren't replacing the water pump, you can still unbolt it to get a better access, but you'll need to replace the water pump bolts as they are one-time-use. I did it all from under the car and with the radiator fan shroud removed when it made sense to attack something from the top, such as removing the water pump once unbolted.
 

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Lahoriya E60 528xi
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5 Posts
I have a 2006 530xi with the N52 engine...you have the same engine. The U hose has a clamp on each side. In addition to a flat blade screwdriver, the clamp has an 8 mm (I think it's 8) hex head. Yes, the clamps are the hardest part of changing the water pump and thermostat. If you are also replacing the water pump, just unbolt it with the hose attached and you should be able to get a better angle to the clamp. If you aren't replacing the water pump, you can still unbolt it to get a better access, but you'll need to replace the water pump bolts as they are one-time-use. I did it all from under the car and with the radiator fan shroud removed when it made sense to attack something from the top, such as removing the water pump once unbolted.
I am replacing the water pump also. Re your comment, "just unbolt it with the hose attached for a better angle", I'm assuming you're referring to unbolting the waterpump-Tstat unit from the main car housing? If not, I am not understanding you. By the way, I've already removed all the bolts connecting the water pump to the assembly, plus connecting to the T-stat. So, not sure if (& where) there are other bolts. Thanks for helping.
 

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2006 530xi 6 MT
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5,234 Posts
Ok, I kinda for the impression you had already get the thermostat removed.

My car has the same setup as yours.

I removed the fan housing. That's pretty easy once you know how the two clips work. The left side has a flip out clip. The right side has something you depress when you pull up.

Then I remove the underbody plastic shield.

You may want to remove the right side wheel and fender liner and that gives more visibility.

Unbolt the clamp under the car that holds a couple power steering hoses. That just makes it easier to move your hands around.

Then take off the quick-connect coolant hoses. They will likely be hard to remove because they are stuck in place, but keep pulling them.

Drain the radiator by opening the drain plug or removing the lower hose if you don't have a drain plug (they did away with the drain plug that at some point).

Now, remove the non-quick-connect clamps. You will have to contort yourself to get that done. Once the clamp is loose you can pull and twist those hoses to break the seal and get them off.

Once unbolted, I was able to remove the thermostat though the bottom of the car (as I recall). The water pump I pulled up in front of the radiator and out though the top of the engine.

The hardest part is lining up the non-quick-connect clamps when putting it all back together. You want to have the clamp in the right orientation and not cockeyed. You really want to you a socket to tighten them and not a screwdriver. Orient the clamps such that you can get a good angle on them from one the of the accesses you have (fender liner, under car, top of engine with fan out).
 
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