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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Same problem with the clutch is back this morning.

Start the car, feel it immediately load the driveline and try to pull forward if started in gear. If in neutral cannot put it in gear. Cannot change gears. If started in gear it will immediately start to slowly pull forward, speeding up if you actually release the clutch.

Drove fine last night when I parked it. Problem crops up every 2 years or so.

Only common element between all the failures I can think of is that it always happens after it's driven hard and then parked but I also do that pretty much every time I drive the thing and it usually doesn't happen.

Now I'm torn what to do about it because between a clutch, transfer case replacement, front end rebuild, and cat replacement that's about twice what the car is worth in parts alone.
 

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I think you are righ that the self adjusting clutch , isn’t.

how many miles did you put on it before it recurred the third time?
 

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Same problem with the clutch is back this morning.

Only common element between all the failures I can think of is that it always happens after it's driven hard and then parked but I also do that pretty much every time I drive the thing and it usually doesn't happen.
Admittedly this may have nothing to do with what is happening, but it's a idea, a blast from the past.
In the days of drum breaks, the self adjusting mechanism worked from the motion of the car backing up and applying the brakes. If there was more movement in the brakes than normel, as in worn parts, a little self adjuster would click another stop and hold the brake shoes apart a little farther, taking up the slack and adjusting the brakes. Usually not a big deal, but if the driver had driven the brakes hard, the brake drum would expand, and if the driver reversed the car in this state the brakes would adjust. Unfortunately as the brakes cooled the drum contracted and shrink wrapped itself to the brake shoes and jammed the brakes up.
I don't know thhe exact mechanism of the self adjusting clutch but possibly could be something similar happening?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Mechanic finally had time to dive into it. This time apparently the dual mass flywheel grenaded and parts from it were jamming the clutch so it wouldn't disengage properly. He says this could NOT have been the cause of the previous issues as well, however. So strange that I could drive the car and park with no noticeable issues with an apparently blown up flywheel...

Personally, while having little to no experience working on or troubleshooting clutches/flywheels, I can't help but suspect the flywheel has been the cause the whole time since we never replaced it but I am probably horribly wrong. Even on another visit for something else the mechanic commented that he was hearing an odd noise from in front of the transmission which to me seems like it would've likely been the flywheel.

Guess I'm adding another $600 or so to the cost of getting back on the road just to get rid of it as soon as I find a suitable replacement (which is difficult since I have rare preferences, cars being sold are sparse, and the cars available are way overpriced right now).
 

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That's wild. I'd wonder if it was damaged as part of the prior attempt(s), e.g., via someone prying against it there. Or something was left inside the case that got wedged.
 

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I thought it was lore that you replaced dual mass flywheels and clutches as a unit, it is on other brands using the same OE components ..

thanks for closure.

are you angry, denial, negotiating, or accepting yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
It was probably my driving. Although I didn't think I was THAT rough on it.

lol I just left it at the mechanic's and still haven't decided whether to sink money into it or not. I did price out the major parts on FCPEuro and it came to about $3300 CAD not including shipping, duties, or import to Canada for the car that is worth maybe $4000... doesn't make sense financially but the used car market is crazy right now so I'm still thinking of wasting money on the car.

Many places do recommend changing the flywheel as well but 2 mechanics told me not to bother previously unless it looks damaged/worn. I even bought a flywheel last time but he told me to send it back as the one in there was fine. Still seems weird to me that I'd have the same symptoms twice before but he's saying it wouldn't be related so I'm still wondering if maybe the flywheel was actually the cause before and not the clutches.

I had a VW with a dual mass flywheel as well and changed the clutch without the flywheel and had no issues.
 
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