I have the pan and filter off my wife's 2003 325i. It is an A5S 390R with a blue sticker which calles for 83220024359 fluid. Pics are identical to the DIY for the 390R. I bought a filter kit from OEM Bimmer Parts. I double checked the numbers and called OEM Bimmer Parts and they confirmed from VIN that this was the right kit. My concern is that on the replacement filter the two stand-offs are 10mm shorter than the filter I took off. The pickup tube is exactly the same length. The old one had a nylon spacer and a rubber seal. The new one has two rubber seals and no spacer. Has anyone used this kit from OEM? It is made by Elring with a part number of 24 11 7 557 070w/screws. Thanks in advance.
Urgent Tranny filter question - help please
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Just took it out for a short spin afterwards. It seemed to shift a little faster - like when it was newer. Will update at 1K, 5K, etc. That was one thing I did notice, there were very little long term follow-ups from people that have changed their fluid. My BMW owners service manual calls for changing the ATF at 100K. The dealership now uses Dexron VI. Either this is what is good for the tranny or there is a massive corporate wide BMW scam to sell trannys. I will offer a couple of suggestions for those people that are going to do it. Go to Home Depot and get the small concrete mixing tub - makes the perfect catch pan for everything. From reading on this forum I bought an 8' 2"x10" and cut it into four 2' sections. Drove the care up on them and used the tub for re-doing the cooling system - big enough to catch everything without having to move it and the 2" lift gives enough clearance. For the tranny you can drop the whole pan into it and not spill on the floor - then pour into your measuring container. I know I will get criticized for the next suggestion but I have been doing it for longer than most of the members are old. Get a can of K&W Copper Coat or the Permatex equivalent. Lay your gasket on some newspaper and spray one side. Let it dry for about two minutes and stick that side to the clean pan. You won't have any problems trying to get the gasket holes aligned when putting the pan back on - this is not needed when using a steel gasket. Will post more later.
Changed the trans fluid & filter (A5S 325Z) in the wifes 03 325 @ 99,500 miles about 1 year ago. Now at 112,500 no issues (knocking on partible board) to date. Removed and drained the cooling lines from the cooler. Subjectively the up shifts felt better afterwards. Used the ZF specific fluid from Pelican.
Used this post - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166135&page=10 Words at Post 1 & pics at post 18. Lots of helpful info.
Planning on one more fluid/filter change in about another year (12K miles) to get it in the 90% relatively fresh fluid range.
I had my automatic transmission fluid changed at about 125,000 miles and I now sit at 145,000 miles. I wouldn't say I notice any big differences from before to after. If I am in a hurry and don't warm my car up I know it will downshift hard the first time I come to a stop sign, but once it is all warmed up it shifts nicely.
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Changed the Fluid in mine @ 60k almost 3 years ago now. A5S-390R (GM Tranny)
I am now @ ~111K and planning to change out again at 120K. Tranny seemed to shift a little smoother/better and is still ok 50k later.
I used Castrol Import Multi Vehicle fluid and did a Drain refill after about 5000 miles in an effort to get more of the old fluid that stayed in the torque converter out.
This next time I will use Dexron VI.
I am now @ ~111K and planning to change out again at 120K. Tranny seemed to shift a little smoother/better and is still ok 50k later.
I used Castrol Import Multi Vehicle fluid and did a Drain refill after about 5000 miles in an effort to get more of the old fluid that stayed in the torque converter out.
This next time I will use Dexron VI.
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