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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I Have A Question For You Guys - When I Start My 535 Sport V8 From Cold It Has An Awful Clattering Noise For About 1 Second ??
I Dont Think Its The Tappets, Its Coming From A Lower Part Of The Engine I Know I Will End Up Taking In To Garage But If You Have Any Ideas Please Leave A Message.
Steve
 

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overclock that computer!
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535 is not a v8, that would be the 540... did you rebadge the car? either way i had that noise on mine, after a oil change it went away. the previous owner just rest the oil service light, :(
 

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You Lick It, You Own It
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535 is not a v8, that would be the 540... did you rebadge the car? either way i had that noise on mine, after a oil change it went away. the previous owner just rest the oil service light, :(
the 535's actually are v8's
 

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Clatter

You know...this has been out there awhile...and I was just thinking...my driveway is on a slope, so when I start out in the garage I just start it up, when I start after my car has been in the drive for awhile I get the 'clatter' too. So, now I just coast out to the street, sit there a sec and fire it up...no clatter.

If your drive is on a slope I'd suggest you do the same. Or get to a level surface before starting...if possible. That clatter is no oil in the engine...after the pressure builds up then it is gone, classic symptom of low oil.

GL
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi
The oil level is fine, I will change the way i park the car tonight as i do park outside on a slope. I have also added a can of Winns oil treatment to the engine oil to coat inside of engine see if that makes a difference..

As for not being a V8 .....well ?

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Guys in Europe the V8 comes in a 535.

That aside, try running a good sunthetic like a 0W40 to get the oil pressure up to par asap.

Aside from that, dont worry about it. It's normal. When you shut the engine down, all the oil will drain back to the pan overnight. Then you start it and it takes a second for it to be circulated. Don;t worry , all parts are still coated with oil. Just about all engines do that, some louder then others. Some owners also never bother to notice. I worried about that for years with every car i had. With the 540 i just live with it and it;s no biggie.

If it does not happen on a hot restart, don't worry about it.
 

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Waiiit

get any oil treatment out of your engine...

Like the previous poster indicated use a 0W- oil because it flows a lot easier. The oil treatments are thick and don't 'flow' as easy...thus exacerbating the problem. Think about this why do you think all NASCAR oil flows like water? They can afford the best and they use 0W oil...granted the stuff they use isn't 0W off the shelf...but they do it because it flows easier and cools quicker...thus helping both lubrication and HP...

Go here and read...you will get that oil out of your engine it really isn't what you think...
http://bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
oil change due..

Hi again guys
thanks for your help and information i have now purchased 8 ltrs of castrol edge fully synth oil long life grade 0w 40 as recomended by bmw, and plan to do the change this weekend, my question to you now is should i use an engine oil cleaner prior to draining old oil? my engine has covered 99000 miles.

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My son says use ATF

From what I understand and he has had incredible results, the ATF is no where near as hard on your seals as the Seafoam. Although one x per year he does use the seafoam. he alternates so your call...either you can seafoam or use the ATF either are superior at removing sludge and gunk builtup from old oil in the motor...

GL and you will see a noticable difference in the way the 0W oil flows...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
living in the UK i havent seen or heard of seafoam or ATF i assume these are only available in the USA. We do have products over here like wynns or stp but not sure if they are any good ?
 

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ATF is

Automatic Transmission Fluid...I am sure you have it...
Seafoam may be a US only product but I thought it had a worldwide market...

GL
 

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Depends on what the noise sounds like. Its probably the hyd valve gear.

But it could be a connecting rod that is a little too loose on the big end. Poor oil grade and infrequent changing could do that.

Hope that the problem is just the angle of the car when parked.
 

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every bmw v8 does this, its in the service manual, as long as your oil is ok put your car in park or neutral and rev the engine to 3k for about a minute...for me I have to do it every oil change it has something to do with the hydrolic lifters
 

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every bmw v8 does this, its in the service manual, as long as your oil is ok put your car in park or neutral and rev the engine to 3k for about a minute...for me I have to do it every oil change it has something to do with the hydrolic lifters
After an oil change there is no oil in the filter so the pump fills that first. I would not rev it beyond 800 rpm until the clanking stops, 3000 rpm is way too high. It puts a centrifugal load on the bearings at that speed and w/o oil you are rapidly wearing out the rod bearings.
 

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After an oil change there is no oil in the filter so the pump fills that first. I would not rev it beyond 800 rpm until the clanking stops, 3000 rpm is way too high. It puts a centrifugal load on the bearings at that speed and w/o oil you are rapidly wearing out the rod bearings.
lol yea not right after....a couple days after works for me everytime
 

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me

I add half a quart of atf BEFORE my winter oil change., drive around (nothing intense) just drive around for about 10 mins, ..then drain the oil. Then replace the filter and oil...For my summer change (I change 2x per year) I seafoam, drain then drop the oil pan, wipe it perfectly clean, check the oil pump bolts, reseal and reassemble...add a new filter and filler up with oil...

In the winter I use Mobil 1 0W40, in the Summer I use Mobil 1 10W 30 seems to be a good combo...so far!
 

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I add half a quart of atf BEFORE my winter oil change., drive around (nothing intense) just drive around for about 10 mins, ..then drain the oil. Then replace the filter and oil...For my summer change (I change 2x per year) I seafoam, drain then drop the oil pan, wipe it perfectly clean, check the oil pump bolts, reseal and reassemble...add a new filter and filler up with oil...

In the winter I use Mobil 1 0W40, in the Summer I use Mobil 1 10W 30 seems to be a good combo...so far!
Add in an eagle's claw and ground up elephant tusk and you can get another 5000 miles added to the base 20,000 mile recipie :rofl: just kidding

How do you know that your special formula works?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
my local dealer cant supply an eagles claw as out of stock! he does have plenty of elephant tusk but its the wrong grade for e39 v8.
 
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