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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure what tips I can get. I’m doing a VANOS job on my car and the replacement VANOS (both) won’t install back in fully. They both get stuck about a half inch from seating properly.

I tried to put the old ones back in, they won’t install back.

I’ve taken the orings off and all 4 seat correctly. So obviously it’s something with the orings - but I’ve oiled them and not matter how much force I use - they won’t go.

Supposed to be a 10 minute job - turning into hell. Anyone do this job and run into something similar?


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Different engine but I remember oiling them up, pushing hard, and turning both ways to get them seated. It was a headache and was forced with success.


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Discussion Starter #3
Hmm. Well so far no luck. Really don’t get it. This should not take my entire body weight to go back in. I don’t get if there is a certain rotation they are supposed to be aligned with?


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I remember my replacement o-rings seemed to be too thick but I indeed used excessive force and turning to seat them. 20,000 miles ago. Did you oil the entire o-ring and not just where it will be seated and pushed in?


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Discussion Starter #5
Oiled the entire VANOS and orings. I thought about the orings as well. Maybe I can put the old main Orings back on? I don’t know if the VANOS failure point is the orings or something internal. My old ones were working “fine” but I’ve been tracking down rough idle anomalies.


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Discussion Starter #6
Side question. My old VANOS, when I physically shake them, they rattle. The new ones don’t. I assume that’s a good sign to replace them?


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Side question. My old VANOS, when I physically shake them, they rattle. The new ones don’t. I assume that’s a good sign to replace them?


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I have read about a rattle when you shake them hard enough but I suspect that it takes a hard rattle to move them. They can’t be completely stationary so a shake movement hard enough would make it rattle IMO.


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Discussion Starter #8
The old ones it’s really just a small shake. Almost now effort. The new I really have whip to get the rattle. Now if I could just get the damn things in


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The old ones it’s really just a small shake. Almost now effort. The new I really have whip to get the rattle. Now if I could just get the damn things in


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I did not like the size of my replacement o-rings. I felt they could be smaller without any issue.


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Discussion Starter #10
So I took the orings off. They still won’t install. Gave up, was able to get my old VANOS back in. Have 2 more from another brand on the way.


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Discussion Starter #11
Pierburg VANOS installed without issue. Lessons learned - dont by the cheaper VANOS brand.

Pierburg ran about $216 with next day air morning delivery.


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Discussion Starter #13
Only symptom was random and inconstant rpm fluctuations when coming to a stop and when idle at a stop. Ive done everything else that I could think of so I thought I would give these a shot. Ive gone on one test drive, but dont have solid results yet. Will report back after a couple weeks of driving.


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Discussion Starter #15
So after a few days of driving - Id say the random idle is 50/50 fixed. The bad idle rpm fluctuations appear to be resolved (wont really know for awhile). I still get some idle rpm stuff when the car is warming up, but Ive had that on all my BMWs.

Power seems to be the same.

The biggest noticeable difference for me is the car actually coasts properly now. It use to be, if I took my foot off the gas, there would be an immediate drop in power and the car would start to "drag" while loosing MPH. I didnt realize this was an issue until the new VANOS was installed. New VANOS, car now coasts way better, which will definitely save gas.

Repair is very easy - if you take my lessons and dont get the cheapest VANOS options.
 

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So after a few days of driving - Id say the random idle is 50/50 fixed. The bad idle rpm fluctuations appear to be resolved (wont really know for awhile). I still get some idle rpm stuff when the car is warming up, but Ive had that on all my BMWs.

Power seems to be the same.

The biggest noticeable difference for me is the car actually coasts properly now. It use to be, if I took my foot off the gas, there would be an immediate drop in power and the car would start to "drag" while loosing MPH. I didnt realize this was an issue until the new VANOS was installed. New VANOS, car now coasts way better, which will definitely save gas.

Repair is very easy - if you take my lessons and dont get the cheapest VANOS options.


Sounds a bit like your remaining issue may be vacuum leaks. Maybe just small. Your are running on an closed loop at startup and then you switch over to the open loop to adjust to the vacuum leaks.


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Discussion Starter #17
Ive replaced the entire pcv system and replaced all the vac lines. Any vac leak at this point wouldnt be worth the hassle for me unless it gets worse. Were talking small rpm fluctuations at this point - hardly notice.


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Ive replaced the entire pcv system and replaced all the vac lines. Any vac leak at this point wouldnt be worth the hassle for me unless it gets worse. Were talking small rpm fluctuations at this point - hardly notice.


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Yeah. That’s what I’m suggesting. Drive and enjoy.


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