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I know this has been the topic of discussion quite a bit but even after reading every post I can find, I still don't have a clear answer to this: Is it possible my vanos is in need of seal replacement without throwing codes? Two independent BMW shops tell me I have not problem if it's not indicating a code.

Problem is, my "new" 2003 E46 wagon with 5 -speed is tricky to get off the line. It feels like it has absolutely no low end power. However when cold, and the RPM is up closer to 1000, I can carefully let out the clutch at idle and it will pull nicely. But warm, I have to slip the clutch and increase RPM higher than any car I've ever driven.

Car has only 60,000 but is 15 years old.

Thanks
 

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I know this has been the topic of discussion quite a bit but even after reading every post I can find, I still don't have a clear answer to this: Is it possible my vanos is in need of seal replacement without throwing codes? Two independent BMW shops tell me I have not problem if it's not indicating a code.

Problem is, my "new" 2003 E46 wagon with 5 -speed is tricky to get off the line. It feels like it has absolutely no low end power. However when cold, and the RPM is up closer to 1000, I can carefully let out the clutch at idle and it will pull nicely. But warm, I have to slip the clutch and increase RPM higher than any car I've ever driven.

Car has only 60,000 but is 15 years old.

Thanks
A couple of things may be responsible here....first, VANOS seals all deteriorate with age, and are one of the few issues which will NOT typically generate any codes (!). They might, however, generate a "phantom" CPS code, because failing seals will allow cams to advance prematurely, confusing the CPS sensor.

Another thing is that your car might still have the CDV (Clutch Delay Valve), a totally unnecessary device that causes unpredictable clutch engagement. It can be easily and quickly remedied, at no cost to you :thumbup: This has been discussed here many times, there`s plenty of info archived here. The SEARCH feature will reveal more....type "CDV-ectomy" into the search box.
 

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You talking and not know about what and why?
Take mechanic courses and never be depended on mechanics opinions
Those super mechanics do not know what proper tire inflation is for your cars and you become saying things about Vanos.
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What kind of codes are you getting?
What you don to your junk box in first place?
What about vacuum leaks this is 95% problems in your junk box BMW.
Those technical words never use Vanos as miracle definition of your problems.
***************************************************************
What about DISA Valve condition ?
All Rubber pipes hoes and so on.
***************************************************
VACUUM VACUUM VACUUM
Buy ELM 327 adapter ( 1$ up to 5$ only)with Bluetoot conneckt to your phone
You can read all OBD Codes and delite them any time.
If you do not know how to do things ask your girlfriend for help or mama.
 

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I know this has been the topic of discussion quite a bit but even after reading every post I can find, I still don't have a clear answer to this: Is it possible my vanos is in need of seal replacement without throwing codes? Two independent BMW shops tell me I have not problem if it's not indicating a code.

Problem is, my "new" 2003 E46 wagon with 5 -speed is tricky to get off the line. It feels like it has absolutely no low end power. However when cold, and the RPM is up closer to 1000, I can carefully let out the clutch at idle and it will pull nicely. But warm, I have to slip the clutch and increase RPM higher than any car I've ever driven.

Car has only 60,000 but is 15 years old.

Thanks
I would also check the DISA. It is also responsible for torque distribution over low and high RPMs.

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Bimmerfest mobile app
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mine idles pretty smoothly but when I engage the clutch to get the car rolling, I never know if the car is going to go or buck. When the engine is cold it's easy to get the car rolling to move into and out of a garage space but after it's warm, I have to be pretty darn precise how I match engine speed and clutch slip. It's not terrible but it just doesn't seem right after 45 years of driving manual trans cars - mostly BMW's.
 

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Mine idles pretty smoothly but when I engage the clutch to get the car rolling, I never know if the car is going to go or buck. When the engine is cold it's easy to get the car rolling to move into and out of a garage space but after it's warm, I have to be pretty darn precise how I match engine speed and clutch slip. It's not terrible but it just doesn't seem right after 45 years of driving manual trans cars - mostly BMW's.
Sounds pretty much like the CDV might be at fault here....it tends to insert a big ? right where it`s least needed, making clutch engagement less predictable. Removing it is about a 20-minute job, all you need is a pair of Vise-Grips, a shop rag, and a 16 or 17mm wrench (I forget which one). Wrap the rag around the rubber feed line just ahead of the valve, and clamp it off with the Vise Grips, unscrew the valve and remove it. Just stretch the line an inch or so to screw the male fitting into it`s female counterpart, and that`s about all there is to it. Clamping off that line prevents any air from entering the system, so there`s nothing to bleed. Piece of cake....
 

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+1 on CDV. Awful device. Makes you look like a rookie. Best mods I’ve done to my E46, E63, and E90. The E63 was simply undriveable.


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Discussion Starter #12
+1 on CDV. Awful device. Makes you look like a rookie. Best mods I’ve done to my E46, E63, and E90. The E63 was simply undriveable.


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But before you removed the device, it was easy to engage the clutch and get moving smoothly when the engine was cold and idling a bit higher? That's how mine is. Once it's warmed up, it acts like it has NO power off-idle.
 

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But before you removed the device, it was easy to engage the clutch and get moving smoothly when the engine was cold and idling a bit higher? That's how mine is. Once it's warmed up, it acts like it has NO power off-idle.
Regardless of anything else, the CDV SHOULD be removed, it can only help. The other possible contributing factor might be the VANOS seals, they have a history of killing low-end torque.
I would also check pressure at the fuel rail, it should be ~50 psi.
 
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