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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, so today my check engine lights went off and had it checked by Auto Zone who said the code was P2458. I asked the dealer and they said the code is "very generic" so they would have to check it themselves and charge $135.

Does anyone know what this code means, and has anyone ran into this issue before? The tool vaguely said it's something related to the Diesel Particulate Filter. I read some threads about the Particulate filter issues which stated this issue may be fixed with the filter Regeneration cycle during highway driving. Oddly, this code came up after I had just driven from Austin to Dallas (~250 miles).

Also, my car is a '11 X5 35D with ~59K miles.
 

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I wouldn't call that a generic code as it only relates to the diesel system. I searched a little and found people getting that code when they do a series of short trips and the engine temps never get hot enough for the regeneration cycle on the filter (not 100% sure what that means). You could ride it out and see if it is a one off or find a local indy shop to take a look.

Tim
 

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it's referring to a filter wondering if it needs replacing and or an Italian tube up :)

Hi, so today my check engine lights went off and had it checked by Auto Zone who said the code was P2458. I asked the dealer and they said the code is "very generic" so they would have to check it themselves and charge $135.

Does anyone know what this code means, and has anyone ran into this issue before? The tool vaguely said it's something related to the Diesel Particulate Filter. I read some threads about the Particulate filter issues which stated this issue may be fixed with the filter Regeneration cycle during highway driving. Oddly, this code came up after I had just driven from Austin to Dallas (~250 miles).

Also, my car is a '11 X5 35D with ~59K miles.
 

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The code means the "diesel particulate filter regeneration duration." Obviously this has to do with part of the exhaust that's responsible for handling (burning) particulates in the exhaust. I believe (don't hold me to it) that this filter is in or immediately after the exhaust header. I think it's made of a special (read "$$$$") ceramic that incinerates the particulates in the exhaust stream.

As this is an emissions issue it should be covered by the EPA-mandated 10 year/80k mile emissions system warranty.
 

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Re reading the other posts, do you drive the car for short (less than 5 miles) trips? The particulate filter needs to get very hot (hence ceramic) to work properly. Clear the code and then take a 40 mile trip at high speeds. Make the engine work hard and long. Report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks so much for the info everyone! I took it to a local mechanic and he asked the same about how I drive. I regularly drive from Austin to Dallas and back about once every two weeks so both the mechanic and I were confused as to why the regeneration hadn't fixed it. Afterwards though, he manually initiated the regen in his shop and no more engine codes to be seen.

Also, if anyone is in the Austin area and looking for an honest and good quality mechanic, I took my car to Pampered Auto and they only charged the initial $95 diagnostic fee and fixed the filter issue at no extra charge. The car's trunk also wasn't closing so he quoted me around $250 but when the part came in and he opened the trunk up, he saw the latch went bad so he only charged $125 instead of up-selling.
 

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OP - this is a WAG . . . your engine is running too cold (normal coolant temp should be 88 deg. °C plus/minus). Your engine is not reaching the minimum temp. required for regen to occur. As a result, over a period, your DPF is getting clogged.

Explains why this issue got sorted out after your mechanic did a manual regen. Most likely this issue will come back again - assuming the regen is not happening automatically.

Check your coolant temperature - it is one of the hidden menus. Here is how you access the hidden menus . . . coolant temperature is Option 07.00.

Accessing the hidden menu is TEDIOUS . . . I check coolant temperature (and other parameters) via the OBDII port and BlueDriver app on my iPhone. (I bought app and sensor a few years back when it was a LOT cheaper . . . if you are going to get one do the research)

If your coolant temperature is in the 80s or 70s °C, I suggest you replace your thermostat. From a labor perspective I suggest you change both water pump and thermostat together.

I have a 35d E70, 2011 MY, June 2010 build, now has 86,000+ miles . . . although I didn't have a DPF issue, when I changed the water pump as part of my routine maintenance, I also changed the thermostat - coolant temperature jumped from 82 °C to 88 °C. Fuel mileage improved very slightly (~0.5 mpg).

If you are a DIY person, here is a thread on how to replace the water pump and thermostat.

Here are a couple of Youtube videos (not the exact engine, but close enough) for thermostat replacement.

Video 1

Video 2

A few of my posts showing my temperature trace, etc. My posts are #17, 24, 49 and 59.

Good luck.

Let us know what your current coolant temperature is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good luck.

Let us know what your current coolant temperature is.
Thanks a bunch for the info! Sorry it took so long, for some reason my gmail is sending bimmerfest updates to my junk :dunno:

I checked my coolant temperature and the most I was purposely able to get it to go up to was 81 deg C. I remember driving in the past long before this issue came up, the coolant would never go above 80 deg C even in the hot summer days so I'll definitely replace the thermostat soon.

Thanks again guys! :thumbup:
 

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OP - at 59,000 miles your water pump is probably in good shape . . . past experience with other model/make cars, water pump typically goes out between 100,000 - 125,000 miles . . . based on that I typically change the water pump around 90,000 miles . . . on this car I did it at 80,000 given I wanted to change out the thermostat.

As fyi . . . my X5's water pump did exhibit very early signs of wear - the impeller was shaking very slightly . . . probably this pump had another 10,000+ miles before it gave out.

The BMW water pump has a plastic or more accurately a composite impeller . . . I think you can get after-market pumps that have a metal impeller (here is a thread that discusses the pros and cons of metal vs. composite impeller). . . or you can even upgrade the water pump to a more exotic version (something along these lines) . . . I prefer to use BMW suggested parts . . . and change the pump every 90,000 miles or so along with regular coolant changes every two years. For my duty cycle this is more than sufficient.
 
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