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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 535i has over 75K miles so I decided to proactively replace the electronic water pump and thermostat yesterday. I followed the great Bav Auto DIY videos although the process was a little more involved on my car than the E90 they use in the video. Everything went pretty well until I managed briefly short out the water pump power connector by touching it just right with a tool (don't ask). I didn't think much about it until it was time to bleed the system. I couldn't get the bleed procedure to start so I pulled the codes and got the dreaded 2E84/2E85 codes saying the car couldn't communicate with the pump. After spending 5 hours checking every connection, every related fuse, clearing codes, disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, verifying the correct voltages at the connector, etc., I finally gave up and had it flat bedded to my local indie. :(
 

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I assume you mean the power connector from the harness, not the one on the pump. Really sorry to hear it. Hope it's just a software reset of some sort. Good luck.
 

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Don't see how that would do anything unless it had power applied when you did it? And I can't see how that would have been the case unless I'm missing something obvious.

You sure the pump wasn't just bad? Did you try the old one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Don't see how that would do anything unless it had power applied when you did it? And I can't see how that would have been the case unless I'm missing something obvious.

You sure the pump wasn't just bad? Did you try the old one?
There was a spark so yes, there was power to the harness. I wasn't expecting that otherwise I would have been more careful with the screwdriver or disconnected the battery. Live and learn....

I did try the old one by making a 4-wire "harness extension" since the harness in the car is only long enough to reach the installed pump. I got the same codes.
 

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There was a spark so yes, there was power to the harness. I wasn't expecting that otherwise I would have been more careful with the screwdriver or disconnected the battery. Live and learn....
Gotcha.. Ah well, could have happened to anyone. I'm not sure how that is connected, hopefully just a fuse though. These things have fuses everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I assume you mean the power connector from the harness, not the one on the pump. Really sorry to hear it. Hope it's just a software reset of some sort. Good luck.
Yep, harness connector. I checked the voltage at pins 1 and 4 and got 12v and 2 and 4 and got 7.8v which is exactly what it should be so I'm hoping it's just a simple software reset. I'll find out in a couple of days after they've had a chance to hook it up to SSS/Progman and run some tests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I'm happy to report that $250 later and my car is back home and running great. It turns out I managed to blow a 50A fuse on a different circuit, although I'm not sure which. Regardless, they bled the system and drove it around for about 10 miles to make sure everything worked fine and there were no leaks due to my handiwork. :D

So in th end, I saved about $200 by doing the work myself although it definitely wasn't worth the days of worry and grief.
 

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Well, I'm happy to report that $250 later and my car is back home and running great. It turns out I managed to blow a 50A fuse on a different circuit, although I'm not sure which. Regardless, they bled the system and drove it around for about 10 miles to make sure everything worked fine and there were no leaks due to my handiwork. :D

So in th end, I saved about $200 by doing the work myself although it definitely wasn't worth the days of worry and grief.
Glad it wasn't too painful, but I gotta wonder what kind of spark results when you short a circuit enough to blow a 50A fuse...
 

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Sorry to hear, that is humbling to have to admit defeat and have it flatbedded. I've been there, or been in a similar spot.

Did the dreaded valley pan gasket in my E39 540i which was a massive, many hour job. I got the dreaded low coolant warning and it started leaking coolant when I pulled into work Monday morning. I thought I had screwed up something major on my DIY work so I filled it up with enough water to limp to the dealer, barely making it (but avoided the tow!). Turned out all it was .............. when I put everything back together, I didn't get the lower radiator hose clamp on tight. :mad:

They said otherwise my DIY job looked fine!
 

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DJtoad (or anyone), could you briefly describe how you accessed everything to remove the pump/thermo? I too watched the BAV video but I noticed right away the crossmember and sway bar are in a diff position. I have only removed the front undercarriage guard so far. I'm curious if you had to go in via the fenderwell, or were able to access it all from underneath. I can't seem to see how to access the main hose clamp toward the rear. Mine is a 2008 535XI. My parts should arrive today, so I'm simply assessing things so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
DJtoad (or anyone), could you briefly describe how you accessed everything to remove the pump/thermo? I too watched the BAV video but I noticed right away the crossmember and sway bar are in a diff position. I have only removed the front undercarriage guard so far. I'm curious if you had to go in via the fenderwell, or were able to access it all from underneath. I can't seem to see how to access the main hose clamp toward the rear. Mine is a 2008 535XI. My parts should arrive today, so I'm simply assessing things so far.
I was able to access everything by simply dropping down the swaybar and unbolting and moving the hydraulic lines out the way. However, it's possible the XI may be different. As for accessing the various hose clamps, I followed the disassembly order in the video and was able to get to each one without much trouble. I even got lucky and was able to disconnect the quick connects with little effort.
 

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having AWD definitely hindered access to everything. However, everything is all back together and running fine. No fun at all working in such a tight spot. Marked all the hose/bib alignments with a silver sharpie and that helped a ton putting things back together.
 
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