Water Pump Fan Holder Tools
1963
11
Does anyone have FOR SALE tool to hold water pump/fan pully? Also need the 32mm wrench to release the hub to gain access to the water pump. Tools need to fit a 2001 Z3 Roadster M54 3.0 liter. I do not know if one size fits all models?? Please advise ASAP. Feel free to send me a PM. Thanks! BTW doesn't the hub bolt release by turning it "clockwise"??
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Yes, fan nut loosens in a clockwise direction. For a wrench I have successfully used a 1 1/4" combination wrench. If you have a 1 1/4, try it on more than one set of flats. I found that the nut isn't dimensionally perfect and while the wrench wouldn't fit one set of flats, it fit another.
Some have had good success without a holding tool and just giving the wrench a sharp whack with a big hammer or a dead-blow hammer. I had to make a tool the last time I removed my fan to do a water pump. I used 3/16" x 1 1/4" bar stock, drilled holes to go over the bolt heads and ground out a relief to fit around the nut with a bench grinder. If you go this route, be aware that the bolt pattern is rectangular and you want to use the LONG side of the rectangle for the hole spacing so that the tool is stronger. If you use the short spacing for the holes they are close to the relief and it creates a weak spot.
The reason I had to make a tool was because when I was in the first time to replace a thermostat I tightened the fan nut down too much and it was a bear to get off again. It's possible to wedge a long screwdriver between two bolts and brace it against the engine but when I did this the second time around I cracked the water-pump pulley.
The moral of that story is if you do get things apart, when it goes back together just snug the fan nut down a little bit, don't tighten it down really tight. That's the best help I can give you...
Some have had good success without a holding tool and just giving the wrench a sharp whack with a big hammer or a dead-blow hammer. I had to make a tool the last time I removed my fan to do a water pump. I used 3/16" x 1 1/4" bar stock, drilled holes to go over the bolt heads and ground out a relief to fit around the nut with a bench grinder. If you go this route, be aware that the bolt pattern is rectangular and you want to use the LONG side of the rectangle for the hole spacing so that the tool is stronger. If you use the short spacing for the holes they are close to the relief and it creates a weak spot.
The reason I had to make a tool was because when I was in the first time to replace a thermostat I tightened the fan nut down too much and it was a bear to get off again. It's possible to wedge a long screwdriver between two bolts and brace it against the engine but when I did this the second time around I cracked the water-pump pulley.
The moral of that story is if you do get things apart, when it goes back together just snug the fan nut down a little bit, don't tighten it down really tight. That's the best help I can give you...
There are lots of them on e-bay.
Free tool rental
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...s/_/N-263pZ1z141ur?itemIdentifier=512958_0_0_
The Fan tool from autozone for a GM (or similar) is also meant to work as well.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...s/_/N-263pZ1z141ur?itemIdentifier=512958_0_0_
The Fan tool from autozone for a GM (or similar) is also meant to work as well.
I made mine using an angle grinder on a scrap peice of flatbar. Took 15 minutes. I refuse to pay that much for something so simple.
Benjamin757, can you post a drawing of this tool?
Thanks,
Al
Thanks,
Al
Made my own as well. All it is is a bar with a hole in it. 24" provides enough leverage.
If no one pipes up by later today, I will post a couple of pics and the dimensions for everyone...
honestly i could tell you how to get the dimensions. Look behind the clutch fan at the water pump and the large nut that holds the fan on. the tool is a peice of flat bar with a half circle or square to go around the nut. then take an approximate measurement of the top bolt on the water pump. thats where you drill the hole. The hole size dosnt have to be exact, i had to re tweek mine a bit until it fit. basically as long as it firmly holds the water pump. Your probably going to need two people one to hold the tool and the ther to smack the 32 mm wrench with a hammer counter clockwise. or you could use a breaker bar whatever you fancy. i beleive the size flatbar i used was 1.5" wide and like 1/4" thick. good luck its pretty frustrating but also easy. GOOD LUCK:thumbup:
Benjamin757, thanks for the vivid description. I should have no problem fabricating one.
Al
Al
I've attached a couple of pics. I used 3/16" thick 1 1/4" bar stock.
The holes are 1/2" in diameter and their centerline is about .460" in from the long edge. The bottom hole's center is about .550" from the bottom edge of the bar stock and the top hole's center is about 1.920" from the bottom edge of the bar stock, resulting in a hole spacing (centerlines) of 1.370"
Then I freehanded the notch in between the holes so that it was just deep enough to clear the edge of the fan nut without getting too close to holes, leaving enough material that it didn't give under stress. The notch is centered between the holes and is about .320" deep at it's deepest point.
Right now the fabricated section is at the end of a 3-foot piece of bar stock. The next steps I plan on doing are to clamp it vertically in a vise a few inches above the holes and bend it outward, then bend it back to vertical a few inches above that bend for clearance from the timing cover/vanos assembly, then cut to final length and dip the end in tool-handle plastic.
Once you have the holes/notch cut and you test fit it, you will see what I'm trying to do with the bends. It worked fine but would have been more comfortable to use and more stable with the bends in it. I planned on keeping the overall length long enough that I could brace the bar stock against the vanos solenoid housing and still have a few inches more for a grip area.
The holes are 1/2" in diameter and their centerline is about .460" in from the long edge. The bottom hole's center is about .550" from the bottom edge of the bar stock and the top hole's center is about 1.920" from the bottom edge of the bar stock, resulting in a hole spacing (centerlines) of 1.370"
Then I freehanded the notch in between the holes so that it was just deep enough to clear the edge of the fan nut without getting too close to holes, leaving enough material that it didn't give under stress. The notch is centered between the holes and is about .320" deep at it's deepest point.
Right now the fabricated section is at the end of a 3-foot piece of bar stock. The next steps I plan on doing are to clamp it vertically in a vise a few inches above the holes and bend it outward, then bend it back to vertical a few inches above that bend for clearance from the timing cover/vanos assembly, then cut to final length and dip the end in tool-handle plastic.
Once you have the holes/notch cut and you test fit it, you will see what I'm trying to do with the bends. It worked fine but would have been more comfortable to use and more stable with the bends in it. I planned on keeping the overall length long enough that I could brace the bar stock against the vanos solenoid housing and still have a few inches more for a grip area.
Attachments
Thanks!!
-Al
-Al
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