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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got the dreaded yellow overheating light, and a 2e84 error code, so I changed out the water pump and thermostat. Installed my new set from FCP Euro, and could not start the bleeding procedure. Pump will not turn on. Reset codes, started the car, and got code 2e83 and 2e84. Low voltage, and no communication. Checked power at the connector for the water pump, and got .5 volts, 8 volts, and 12 volts, on the different pins. Checked the main fuse in the DME box, and random fuses behind the glove box. What am I missing here?
 

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3/2007 328xi E91
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...I changed out the water pump and thermostat. Installed my new set from FCP Euro, and could not start the bleeding procedure. Pump will not turn on. Reset codes, started the car, and got code 2e83 and 2e84. Low voltage, and no communication. Checked power at the connector for the water pump, and got .5 volts, 8 volts, and 12 volts, on the different pins. Checked the main fuse in the DME box, and random fuses behind the glove box...
2007 335i. Build date 11/06
I would start by checking BOTH F02 & F07, both located in the E-box per these two "Installation Location" diagrams:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335i-lim/S0kgUlt
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335i-lim/RzzQ0oQ

Here is the "Engine Cooling System" circuit for 11/06 build 335i N54:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...lity-control-valve-msv/engine-cooling/dJL5OHc

If Fuse F02 were blown it would affect the control circuit for the Coolant Pump, but it would also either prevent starting at all, or cause very rough running, as it also powers the VANOS Solenoids and Cam Position Sensors, per this Schematic:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...onnectors/components/f-fuses/f02-fuse/bWsRw24

If the issue is more than a fuse, please identify the pins at which you measured voltage (Pin # & Connector number for each measurement). Obviously Pins #1 & #3 of Connector X6035 at the coolant pump should BOTH be 12V+ with ignition on, #4 (Brown wire) is ground, and #2 is BSD signal from DME which would trigger bleed when you hold Accelerator Pedal down for 10 seconds with ignition on.

Please let us know what you find,
George
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for the hold up. I've been busy at work and have other cars to drive. Pin 1 orange 11.8v. pin 2 purple 7.4v. pin 3 red .9v. pin 4 ground. These are the numbers I got after trying to initiate the bleeding procedure.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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17,467 Posts
... Pump will not turn on. ... What am I missing here?
Did you turn the pump by hand as it was installed? After installation, how long was the pump dry of proper coolant?

Electric coolant pumps have exotic Graphitar plain journal bearings that corrode in a heartbeat. NewTIS says turn them by hand before installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't recall if I turned it by hand before it was installed. But it has never started since it was installed. Multiple times I've ran the bleeding procedure, and even ran the car for a few. The water pump has never turned on.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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I saw between 7.1 and 7.4 volts on my multimeter. It did fluctuate
A VOM multimeter is not an adequate tool. The most general adequate tool would be an oscilloscope, though there are high-tech handheld digital meters with oscilloscope functions.

Still, unless one knows the proper codes being transmitted, even that knowlege is useless. 100% duty cycle - that might look like 12 VDC - and 0% are not used for speed control but for status indication / acquisition.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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17,467 Posts

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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17,467 Posts
Is pin 3 being at .9v not a problem?
Not if the engine is off. Sorry, I don***8217;t know the terminal designations for your car. Probably the ECP is not powered until the ignition is on / Condition I or Condition II without starting.

Look and see when the bus / terminal supplying the fuse for the ECP is on.

Connect battery charger.
Switch the ignition on.
Set heater to maximum temperature and turn blower down to lowest speed.
Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.
The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min. (the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).
Then top up fill level in coolant expansion tank with 100 ml above MAX (see illustration).
Check cooling system for watertightness.
If venting has to be carried out again (e.g. if cooling system is leaking), allow DME to fall completely (leave ignition key removed for approx. 3 min), then repeat from Point 3.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...-engine/11-51-coolant-pump-with-drive/OasQXAj
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I followed that bleeding procedure probably a hundred times. Those are the numbers that was at that connector. When the ignition is off, it seems like none of the pins have power.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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I have said what little I know. Sorry I can't be more help. It's tough to troubleshoot by remote control. Best wishes.

My work title was Test Engineer and it was my job to find problems, learn problem indications to send to engineeering specialties and to implement their approved solutions. When chit just wouldn't go right then my mantra was, Back To Basics. Make sure that the plant was safe and stable. Do my best to put everything back like I found it and start over, slower, looking for missed steps, missed clues. Call for help, independent eyes.
 

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Sorry for the hold up. I've been busy at work and have other cars to drive. Pin 1 orange 11.8v. [OK] pin 2 purple 7.4v. [OK] pin 3 red .9v. [Wiring/ Fuse Fault] pin 4 ground [OK if that means continuity to Ground]. These are the numbers I got after trying to initiate the bleeding procedure.
Per the wiring diagram previously linked & linked again below, Pin #3, Red wire at Connector X6035 (attached to pump) should be 12V+ BATTERY power. That is what the "30" above fuse F07 means -- "Terminal 30" or battery power as you have applied to any Terminal/ Pin #30 of a relay. So if you have ONLY .9V, you have a broken or loose wire or corroded connection somewhere in the F07 circuit. Here are (1) the F07 circuit; (2) the Coolant Pump circuit; and (3) F07 Installation Location for your 11/06 build 335i:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335i-lim/bmlCE3r
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...lity-control-valve-msv/engine-cooling/dJL5OHc
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335i-lim/RzzQ0oQ

Just to make sure we're on the same page, F07 is different from "F7." F07 is in the E-box or Engine Electronics Box under the hood, where the DME is located. Just check for voltage at each connector in the F07 wiring between Pin #3 of X6035 and X6430 below the Jumpstart Terminal under the hood as shown in this TIS Installation Location" (check for 12V+ at Jumpstart Terminal while there). :)

BTW, the BMW test procedure for the BSD signal at Pin #2 of Connector X6035, per BMW SI B12 04 05 (October 2008) states that voltage there (Pin #2, Violet wire) should be 7.5 to 8.5V, so even though that is a PMW (Pulse-Width Modulation) "square wave" best read by an oscilloscope (as Doug states), there is a DC Voltage equivalent which a simple DMM (Digital Multimeter) can read (apparently ;-). Perhaps an Electronics Expert (which I am NOT ;-) can confirm/correct.

Please let us know what you find,
George
 
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