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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I am going to do my first water pump replacement on my 2009 BMW 528i with 85k miles on it. There is no problem or codes related to water pump but I am planning to do some travels and I do not want to have water pump issue in the middle of no where.

I have already read many discussions and watch videos.

My question will be. Should I change with PIERBURG one, or is there any better one?

I have extension set including flexible extensions. I am planning to remove fan too. Any tips and tricks related to the procedure would be very helpful.

Again thank you very much for all the answers,
 

· Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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There is no better than Pierburg. Proper handling of the new pump before installation, during installation and after installation is important.
Attention!
Risk of damage:
Non-visible damage to the coolant pump.
Forcibly removing, installing or dropping the coolant pump down will damage it.
Remove and install the coolant pump without damaging it and without applying external force.
Avoid impacts/knocks to the coolant pump (e.g.. by tools, falling down, hard contact with base).
Necessarily renew the coolant pump after it falls or receives hard blows.
Installation note:
The electrical water pump must be turned by one rotation due to the breakaway torque at the blade wheels.

If one enters the BMW TIS from the replace ECP procedure, it sends one to the vacuum fill procedure. An air bound ECP will be destroyed.

BMW E60 528i Sedan / Repair Manuals and Technical Data / 11 Engine / 11 51 Coolant pump with drive /
11 51 000 Removing and installing/renewing coolant pump (N52K)
 

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2006 530xi 6 MT
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5,729 Posts
Hi all,

I am going to do my first water pump replacement on my 2009 BMW 528i with 85k miles on it. There is no problem or codes related to water pump but I am planning to do some travels and I do not want to have water pump issue in the middle of no where.

I have already read many discussions and watch videos.

My question will be. Should I change with PIERBURG one, or is there any better one?

I have extension set including flexible extensions. I am planning to remove fan too. Any tips and tricks related to the procedure would be very helpful.

Again thank you very much for all the answers,
There are many water pump DIY threads. Find one or two and go from there.
 

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Definitely go with the Peirburg OEM pump. All others are substandard quality. That said, unless you are seeing any codes, the pump is probably fine. The failure is gradual if you have kept up with the basic maintenance, such as changing the coolant regularly.

I would be more concerned with the state of the hoses, in particular the MickeyMouse hose on the front of the engine or if your OFH gasket has leaked and spewed oil onto the belt and other hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitely go with the Peirburg OEM pump. All others are substandard quality. That said, unless you are seeing any codes, the pump is probably fine. The failure is gradual if you have kept up with the basic maintenance, such as changing the coolant regularly.

I would be more concerned with the state of the hoses, in particular the MickeyMouse hose on the front of the engine or if your OFH gasket has leaked and spewed oil onto the belt and other hoses.
Well, I fixed all the leaks, there is no leak anywhere. Checked the hoses, they look good. Checking the vehicle periodically with ISTA-D , no codes. Everything works good.
The only reason I am worried, some people wrote here, even if there is no code, water pump may fail any time? Is that correct , or if people check their cars regularly they would have seen codes beige it fails?
 

· Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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The ECP is a Brush-Less Direct Current motor with a wet coolant cooled and lubricated rotor. The bearings are Graphitar® that is very fragile and to corrosion. The electronics that create the rotating magnetic field are included in the ECP case. The ECP communicates with the ECU by a data bus and is commanded over that data bus. The ECP is capable of generating a number of trouble error codes, under speed, over heat, locked rotor, that I can recall.

Any mechanical or electrical component may fail at any time.

My mechanical coolant pump is 100K+ miles old. I monitor the coolant level to within a millimeter or two, watching for indication of a failing mechanical seal.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The ECP is a Brush-Less Direct Current motor with a wet coolant cooled and lubricated rotor. The bearings are Graphitar® that is very fragile and to corrosion. The electronics that create the rotating magnetic field are included in the ECP case. The ECP communicates with the ECU by a data bus and is commanded over that data bus. The ECP is capable of generating a number of trouble error codes, under speed, over heat, locked rotor, that I can recall.

Any mechanical or electrical component may fail at any time.

My mechanical coolant pump is 100K+ miles old. I monitor the coolant level to within a millimeter or two, watching for indication of a failing mechanical seal.
Thank you for the detailed answer.
 

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Well, I fixed all the leaks, there is no leak anywhere. Checked the hoses, they look good. Checking the vehicle periodically with ISTA-D , no codes. Everything works good.
The only reason I am worried, some people wrote here, even if there is no code, water pump may fail any time? Is that correct , or if people check their cars regularly they would have seen codes beige it fails?
That hasn't been my experience but others may have different experiences. YMMV.

I was on a trip to Vermont, about 350 miles from home when I got an overheat warning. I pulled over and depressurized the cooling system. I didn't lose any coolant and the level was good, so after about 1/2 an hour, I restarted the car and continued the trip. The car was fine for the remainder of the trip and all the way home. About 3 weeks later, the pump finally failed for good but I was able to drive home. About a week after that the MM hose flange fell apart as I was driving to work, spewing coolant. That required a flatbed tow.
 

· Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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Overheat is not an ECP problem without other indications.
 

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Hi all,

I am going to do my first water pump replacement on my 2009 BMW 528i with 85k miles on it. There is no problem or codes related to water pump but I am planning to do some travels and I do not want to have water pump issue in the middle of no where.

I have already read many discussions and watch videos.

My question will be. Should I change with PIERBURG one, or is there any better one?

I have extension set including flexible extensions. I am planning to remove fan too. Any tips and tricks related to the procedure would be very helpful.

Again thank you very much for all the answers,
smart idea! mine went on my E90 in the middle of driving.. thankfully I was not on a highway and I was near my house.. suddenly, without warning.. not even a second of warning.. car got stiff and stalled.. I was making a turn as other cars were coming , it could have been really bad but it managed to coast past the traffic light to the curb, otherwise the oncoming cars would have crashed into the passenger side of the car. Thats a terrible thing, I wish there was some warning some signs beforehand.. but nothing.... it just went like that..
 

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The kit price on FCP is a good one. The BMW OE pump is Pierburg branded BMW. So, either Pierburg or the BMW is the same thing. Always buy BMW or known OEM such as Pierburg from a trusted source, such as FCP, OEM Bimmerparts, AZ Autohaus and numerous others. Don't buy from Ebay or Amazon, unless the unit is being sold by a trusted source who has a store on Ebay or Amazon. There are fakes out there. If you take it to an indy or general mecahnic, make sure to specify Pierburg or BMW -- no auto parts store sourcing.

I've done two. One was on my RWD 530. Remove the passenger wheel and liner to get access from the side, top and bottom. Use a flexible or ujoint adapter since some of the bolts are tough to reach. Of course, drain all the coolant you can before you start. When you pull of the hose from the pump more will drain, even if you drained from the radiator. On the 328 AWD the job was a bitch because of the extra parts in the way and the location tightly next to a frame member. Job time for the amateur is about 3 hours on the RWD, and as many as 5 hours on the AWD. Do the thermostat and u-hose at the same time. Be patient, particularly with the pump on an Xi AWD.

Yes, lots of Youtubes out there on it. Good luck.
 
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2019 BMW 540
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The kit price on FCP is a good one. The BMW OE pump is Pierburg branded BMW. So, either Pierburg or the BMW is the same thing. Always buy BMW or known OEM such as Pierburg from a trusted source, such as FCP, OEM Bimmerparts, AZ Autohaus and numerous others. Don't buy from Ebay or Amazon, unless the unit is being sold by a trusted source who has a store on Ebay or Amazon. There are fakes out there.

I've done two. One was on my RWD 530. Remove the passenger wheel and liner to get access from the side, top and bottom. Use a flexible or ujoint adapter since some of the bolts are tough to reach. Of course, drain all the coolant you can before you start. When you pull of the hose from the pump more will drain, even if you drained from the radiator. On the 328 AWD it was a bitch because of the extra parts in the way. Job time for the amateur is about 3 hours on the RWD, and as many as 5 hours on the AWD. Do the thermostat and u-hose at the same time. Be patient, particularly with the pump on an Xi AWD.

Yes, lots of Youtubes out there on it. Good luck.
WElp, I gotta AWD. My pump isn't showing signs of dying at 72k miles. But, once it does die, I might attempt it myself. I've been hearing AWD is a pia when it comes to replacing the Waterpump/Thermostat.

My indy charges $680 to do it
 

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2006 530xi 6 MT
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I've changed the pump on my 2006 530xi once and the pump on wife's (sold) 2009 X5 twice. If you have a modest amount of DIY experience, it isn't all that hard. Go slow, watch some videos, read a few threads. The hardest part is getting the clamps lined up and tightened.
 

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2019 BMW 540
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I've changed the pump on my 2006 530xi once and the pump on wife's (sold) 2009 X5 twice. If you have a modest amount of DIY experience, it isn't all that hard. Go slow, watch some videos, read a few threads. The hardest part is getting the clamps lined up and tightened.
Im kinda new to diy.

Only thing I've done myself is oil changes, rear diff, coolant flange, and the power steering res.
 

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Most of the threads are for the -i variants, so there's plenty of them. I couldn't find one for the -xi (AWD) version, so made one (it was ugly). ;-)

One of the tricks I figured out was that you really don't have to disconnect the infamous "Mickey Mouse hose" from the thermostat to remove the thermostat (and water pump). Also, you can pre-install the MM hose on the new pump/thermostat "assembly" before sliding it into the car, and save yourself the hardest hose connection.

And FWIW, if that $680 to swap the pump and thermostat includes parts, kiss your indy on the forehead and sign up for the swap! ;-)

FWIW, here's the video I made (since I couldn't find an E60/61 xi video on the subject)...
 

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2019 BMW 540
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Most of the threads are for the -i variants, so there's plenty of them. I couldn't find one for the -xi (AWD) version, so made one (it was ugly). ;-)

One of the tricks I figured out was that you really don't have to disconnect the infamous "Mickey Mouse hose" from the thermostat to remove the thermostat (and water pump). Also, you can pre-install the MM hose on the new pump/thermostat "assembly" before sliding it into the car, and save yourself the hardest hose connection.

And FWIW, if that $680 to swap the pump and thermostat includes parts, kiss your indy on the forehead and sign up for the swap! ;-)

FWIW, here's the video I made (since I couldn't find an E60/61 xi video on the subject)...
Yup, the $680 is for parts, labor and a 2 year parts + labor warranty
 
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