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Discussion Starter #1
My 2012 X5 has been behaving oddly with the front drives door lock for the past 2 months and I'm finally ready to dig into it.

Normal behavior, once turning off the car. Pull the drives door handle once and the door unlocks, pull it again and it opens.

About 50% of the time I pull the handle the first time and the lock starts to rise up, but never 'catches' and the door stays locked. No matter how many times I pull the handle, the door will not unlock. The only way to unlock the door is to hit the button in the center console, which works 100% of the time (quickly too).

The other 50% of the time, the door works as expected.

Anybody have any ideas what's going on?

Other behavior that I've noticed. When locking the car from the outside, either with the touch or key fob, the drives door lock goes down a tad bit slower than the other locks. It works, but just a bit slow. Not sure if this is related.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 100K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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As I understand it, the linkage between the mechanical handles and the latch is a Bowden cable - like a bicycle brake cable - with all those issues. Same as your hood latch release but not so accessible for maintenance, but just as much of a headache when it breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks Doug.

I suspect it's not the cable, but the mechanism that controls the door lock. I can't seem to find an exploded view, but I do see acutator parts online.

Poking around google, I can't find this behavior within the E70 family, but I found this E53 link. I bet I'm having the same problem. He mentions the same 'slow locking / unlocking' that I'm having.

I'm having trouble finding this same part for a E70.

Edit: Maybe the door handle cable isn't putting enough tension on the actuator?
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 100K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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Bowden cable inner tension wire has a soldered(?) knob on one end and is clamped at the other end, and the clamp may slip.

The Bowden cable outer compression sleeve is of plastic coated multi-strand wrapped wire, wrapped <<45° in expensive precision applications (bicycle shifter cable), or >45° in less expensive applications (bicycle brake cable); in both versions the plastic outer maintains the stability of the wire wrap and may fail and allow collapse.

All this is to say that I would look again at the cable. And mentioning its lack of robustness tells me that I should try to remember to unlock the doors electrically and minimize stress cycles on the Bowden cables. I look and and lubricate the hood release cable, but it is mostly accessible. People report horrible and expensive damage to their hood, opening it after a Bowden cable/fitting failure.
 

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Thanks Doug.

I suspect it's not the cable, but the mechanism that controls the door lock. I can't seem to find an exploded view, but I do see acutator parts online.

Poking around google, I can't find this behavior within the E70 family, but I found this E53 link. I bet I'm having the same problem. He mentions the same 'slow locking / unlocking' that I'm having.

I'm having trouble finding this same part for a E70.

Edit: Maybe the door handle cable isn't putting enough tension on the actuator?
...exploded view...like in the online parts diagrams? Click links above diagrams to go directly to the part number index which gives the name and other info about the items numbered in the illustration:

 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks. I typically use PelicanParts, but they didn't have these diagrams.

I guess I'm looking at parts '1' and '9'. I think part '2' only applies to cars with soft close doors (which I do not have).

I hate throwing parts at a problem, but for $51.10 and $10.95 I might just replace them both and be done with it. My wife drives this car sometimes and $60 isn't worth the 'I'm stranded' call.

Anybody know why the passenger side door is twice the cost of the drivers door?
 

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Thanks. ... I think part '2' only applies to cars with soft close doors (which I do not have). ...
Actually, both diagrams would apply if your build date & option code (listed in the supplemental columns) comply. Just for verification...I would go back and enter the last 7 digits of your VIN so that the part database will select the correct diagrams and part numbers based on your specific vehicle. (I used the VIN of a 2012 X5 35d)

When there are multiple part nbrs listed for a specific item in the diagram...then look over to the supplemental column to find which part nbr applies to your application. Again, when there are multiple part nbrs for a particular item pictured in the diagram...they are listed that way so that you can select the right part nbr for how your vehicle is optioned...or if there's a different part due to a change during the production run. :)

Good luck. :thumbup:
 

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Thanks. I typically use PelicanParts, but they didn't have these diagrams.

I guess I'm looking at parts '1' and '9'. I think part '2' only applies to cars with soft close doors (which I do not have).

I hate throwing parts at a problem, but for $51.10 and $10.95 I might just replace them both and be done with it. My wife drives this car sometimes and $60 isn't worth the 'I'm stranded' call.

Anybody know why the passenger side door is twice the cost of the drivers door?
Did you ever get around to fixing this issue? Was it indeed the cable?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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