Bimmerfest BMW banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I see a few different choices for Water Pumps and T-Stat housing assemblies.... Looking at Pelican and AutohauzAZ,, it shows the Graf pump has the metal impeller shaft... For the T-Stat housing, I dont see an aluminum offering at all.

Questions:
1.Is the Graf pump ok?
2.Can I use a plastic replacement T-Stat housing?
3.Also, do I need the $87. tool for the pump removal and installation.
4.Do I need the blue coolant, or are there alternatives?
5. My upper and lower radiator hoses seem ok, should I replace anyway?

99 528i 104k miles

Thanks!
 

·
Under the lift arms
Joined
·
12,946 Posts
personally.. I wouldn't use a plastic tstat housing..

the aluminum one is better and more robust

graf pumps are acceptable

Im not sure what the 87$ tool is.. can you please link that (im not aware of any special tools that i used in the past)

Blue IS oem.. people have long time argued that you MUST use it.. IVE prooven that wrong.. over the last 10+ years

IF you are there you should do it anyway.. replace as much of the cooling system at the same time.. to reduce the amount of times you have to drain and repair the system..

the cooling systems on bmw's are known for being weak, most of it being plastic and now with the date and age of the car.. all of the plastic that has not been replaced is hard and brittle..

This also includes pretty much ALL of the plastic on the car.... all been beat on by the sun for 20 years..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
I use green cheap brand coolant, and seems to be working perfectly well. No leaks. Visual inspection of the fluid does not show any problems...

Inspect the hidden coolant hose close to the bulkhead, it is below the inlet manifold.

I don't find the E39 cooling system weak at all, and I've endured a very hot summer road trip last year around southern spain. I think that 99.9% of the drivers disregard the cooling system and that misleads people into thinking its fragile or whatever, when I don't see that in the E39 and all it takes is common sense and regular inspection and care. The cooling systems tells you alot about the health of the engine, and it is just so easy to keep track of the level, cold and hot, and to manage things in the E39, I find it easier than in the mitsubishi montero which I owned for 3 years. The E39 seems to be better designed, the open expansion tank system on other cars (the extra open small hose that lets coolant out in case of too much coolant) that is designed to let coolant out much easier than the E39 and that makes it harder to keep track of whats happening.

With a flashlight, keep track of the tubes and the pastic or aluminum parts watching out for coolant leaks. Easy.

I started out with my E39 leaking through the radiator (swapped it so easily, only 2 bolts holding it, 200$ euqivalent BEHR "made in china" but is working perfectly) then I had a very small leak with the old coolant level sensor, Cost 20$, easy to replace, now zero leaks. by the way I also had to replace the 6$ BMW original top hose bleeder screws.
 

·
Wingnut
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
agree with what burning2nd states, graf is ok, hepu brand is ok as well. is the $87 dollar tool the fan clutch tool set? if so, it can be had for about a third the cost on the big eauction site. its a handy set of tools. there are arguments both ways on the coolant, BMW or other, myself i changed out to green coolant when redoing my cooling system, works well. if changing types, just make sure to thoroughly flush out the system. yes the cooling systems are known to be weak on these cars. on your car, might give thought to the two plastic pipes under the intake manifold. especially if theyre original, theyre a coolant leak waiting to happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
I would just add that I personally don't classify the cooling system as weak, as far as I've seen and experienced, over 22 years old, had the same original radiator when I replaced mine, the weaker parts of the system are well know by now, and the fact that handles a 120 miles shuttle commute, a summer trip in a hot country with the old 22 year old radiator, I'd say all you need is to take care of it, a weak system would fail even if taken care of properly, be proactive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,709 Posts
I would just add that I personally don't classify the cooling system as weak, as far as I've seen and experienced, over 22 years old, had the same original radiator when I replaced mine, the weaker parts of the system are well know by now, and the fact that handles a 120 miles shuttle commute, a summer trip in a hot country with the old 22 year old radiator, I'd say all you need is to take care of it, a weak system would fail even if taken care of properly, be proactive.
The cooling system is weak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
586 Posts
I don't think that the cooling system is insufficient. It does a great job of cooling the engine under continuous high load.

But I've replaced far too many water pumps, thermostats, water pipes, and other bits than is reasonable.

Back in the e30 days ("when I was a kid... get off my lawn") I never had a water pump or thermostat failure. I replaced the pump with the timing belt, and changed the thermostat simply because it had never been done.

My Z3 has 100K miles and is on its fourth thermostat and third water pump. The first change was done by the dealer during a scheduled maintenance visit. I didn't even know it was going to be done. The factory parts just failed so frequently (1st generation plastic impeller spun on the shaft, 1st generation map thermostat broke the hold-down tab) that BMW was quietly replacing them all. A few years later that thermostat wouldn't close and the engine wouldn't warm up in cold weather. I knew the symptom because I had just help a friend change his e46 thermostat with the same problem. That thermostat failed by the electrical heater section either shorting or opening, so I tried a non-BMW part. That Chinese-made thermostat lasted only a few months before it had a heater short.

Again, this is on an engine with only 100K miles that I've pampered since new. Not a 15-years-on-factory-antifreeze example.
 

·
Under the lift arms
Joined
·
12,946 Posts
As far as im concerned the m20, is THEE best bmw engine ever ever ever....

the e30 was a tank

biggest mistake i ever made, Selling a 87 325is
 

·
aioros
Joined
·
889 Posts
My 00.02:
Coolant: evans waterless performance coolant (no water no pressure)
I've had it for 10+ years = engine saver

WP: Behr, metal impeller
Fan blade: febi or bmw
fan clutch: sachs (amazon)
Hoses: rein, oem, bmw
Thermostat: behr, plastic is fine
New 90° nipple goes on top of the radiator.
Coolant temp sensor: FAE

fcpeuro offers lifetime replacement part. No questions asked.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Bimmerfest mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
You have an M52TU engine with the MAP thermostat and there is no aluminium housing option. That is for the earlier M52 engine.
Some parts lists haven't worked out that the M52TU engine has very little in common with the M52. The M52TU is the ancestor of the M54 and not the descendant of the M52.
(BMW would have stopped a lot of confusion if the had called the M52TU the M54 and the M54 the M54TU)
Original pump IIRC is made by INA. The bearing failed after 160K kms and I replaced it with an OEM INA. Still good after 100K kms.
Only use the Behr thermostat.
Do not buy a Wahler thermostat. I replaced the original Behr with a Wahler and it started leaking a few months later. Leak was from the heater element. One of the heater element Oring seals was leaking and appeared to be the wrong size after I pulled the heater element out. Secondly the socket for the heater element connection is orientated incorrectly.

Hope this helps
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top