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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have any preferences for a floor jack? I have a Sears model, but it's a) going to be too high once I put my coilovers on and b) regardless of the height, the saddle is too large for my front center jack point. I know about the griots one, but it's rather pricey.

What do you guys use?
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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I have a 3 Ton Sears that's been serving me very well, but I want a lower, longer one.

The jack I REALLY want is a AC DK13HLQ. Finding them isn't a huge problem; the cost of shipping is, unless the quantities are sizable.

There was an earlier thread about Jon Maddux possibly seeing if he could distribute them, but I haven't heard anything further.
 

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I have a nice floor jack 3.5 ton, but it will not fit anywhere but on the standard four jacking points near the wheels.

You have to be careful to find that will fit under.

Work arounds include:

1) Have a friend lift up on the car to give you more clearance.

2) Use a helper jack get it up for more clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I could do that, but I think the bigger problem right now is that I need to use the center jack point for my next project, and my saddle is too big. I need to see if I can find a smaller one at Sears or something. Not sure if they sell them piecemeal though.
 

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From Griot's Garage: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?SKUupsell=77715



EUROPE'S FINEST 2 TON ULTRA LOW PROFILE FLOOR JACK
Looking for quality garage products gets discouraging. I've watched the quality of jacks go downhill fast. Even much revered jacks that were made in the U.S. are now being made overseas. To the CEO's of those companies I say, "Shame on you." That's why you haven't seen a jack in the Handbook lately - I refuse to lower my standards. When it comes to floor jacks, you shouldn't lower your standards either. I've finally found a floor jack from Europe that is packed with features - you'll appreciate all the little things it does long after you've forgotten the price. With a 2 3/4" saddle clearance, our 2 ton floor jack has the lowest profile in the world yet is capable of lifting 4,000 lbs. to a height of 18 1/4". In a jam? Take the saddle out and your lifting point is just 1 3/4"! Notice the side rails, too. (Most jacks have side rails that go up immediately, so no matter how low the jack pad, the jack is useless if you can't get it under the car due to high side rails!) This floor jack has a hidden central internal wheel that allows you to pivot and slide the jack in any direction before you raise the saddle. This eliminates sliding the jack in and out from under the vehicle when positioning it. The T-bar handle also makes the descents more controllable. (Ever try to lower a jack with a "round tube" handle while your hands are greasy?) With a simple turn, the jack lowers the load smoothly; let go and the spring loaded handle automatically stops the descent. No more fussing with a hard-to-control handle! The convenient foot pedal also allows you to pump up the saddle quickly to the lift point, then use the T-bar handle from there. For safety, the jack is also fitted with a safety valve within the hydraulics to prevent overloading. This is the nicest floor jack I've ever had the pleasure of using.
 

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Imola Ed said:
Yeah, I could do that, but I think the bigger problem right now is that I need to use the center jack point for my next project, and my saddle is too big. I need to see if I can find a smaller one at Sears or something. Not sure if they sell them piecemeal though.
Before you spend all that money on a new thin jack, I would try my suggested helper jack idea...

From the standard jack point use the OEM jack in your trunk to get 2-inches of clearance... that should be all you need to slip in your big foor jack to the center jack point.

Just remember to use the helper jack on the way down:angel: or else your floor jack will be stuck.
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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But look at that Griots jack one more time. Look at how high the rest of that body is. My guess is its about 7in, and it starts less than a foot in from the end. Sure, you could get the saddle under the car, but it will not reach that front center jacking point because the high part of the jack will run straight into the front lip.

This is why I want:

 

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Rest in peace, Coach
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Re: Alum. jack

StevzZ3 said:
The main benefit of that jack is lightweight. It's not low or long enough to reach ANY of the center jack points.

I'm also trying to get that same jack Kaz posted. That looks like the only jack that will clear and be long enough to get to the center jack point.

EDIT: I'm going to excercise my moderator powers and make this a sticky...I think for the DIY forum this may be the most important tool you'll ever get (next to a torque wrench).
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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Imola Ed said:


So what is the shipping on this jack going for, just to give me an idea?
I've been quoted $40-50 for a single unit from the east coast. :eek:
Or $125-$150 for qty5 palleted by truck.

Note the long-reach model I'm interested in would naturally be on the high side. What we want to find is a west-coast distributor to save on these charges.
 

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Kaz said:


I've been quoted $40-50 for a single unit from the east coast. :eek:
Or $125-$150 for qty5 palleted by truck.

Note the long-reach model I'm interested in would naturally be on the high side. What we want to find is a west-coast distributor to save on these charges.
What's the price of the jack? I'm quite interested too...

Dave
 

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I have a Lincoln 2 ton floor jack. It's pretty, in dark blue metallic with a great big yellow handle. I also use a round disc of polypropylene plastic in the lifting saucer. This prevents unsightly marring.

For those times when I need to squeeze under something. I use a pair of MAXIFORCE air bags. View at www.paratech-inc.com/Maxiforce.asp These are low pressure pnuematically actuated lifting devices (about 20psi is all you need) They are about 1" thick when deflated and have no trouble lifting any size of automobile. To prevent stress on the unibody, I alway lift one entire side of the car as opposed to just a corner.

Air bag lifting cells only expand about 9" so you have to use a small square pallet underneath to raise the car for any use. I only use these when I'm doing wheel, brake work.

When the car has to be up in the air for something like transmission mounts, driveline, rear diff oil change, twin turbo installs, etc. It goes on the lift.

:mad: razzmatazz
 

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Rest in peace, Coach
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Wow, that IS gorgeous...And it looks like very useful with the long reach as well. Any clearance issues teamdfl?

Maybe we can organize a group buy for So. Cal members and east coast members where they can be distributed at certain events (like say, bimmerfest?)
 

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The HACK said:
Wow, that IS gorgeous...And it looks like very useful with the long reach as well. Any clearance issues teamdfl?

Maybe we can organize a group buy for So. Cal members and east coast members where they can be distributed at certain events (like say, bimmerfest?)
Count me in. I'll drive down to So. Cal to collect mine (and get a chance to meet some of you miscreants!)

Bimmerfest is too far off.

Dave
 

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Speed Bump
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288 Posts
I believe mine is a DK20, the shortest reach model. I have no problem reaching the front jack point at the subframe or the diff in back on any E46 with the factory Sport Package suspension. I have not tried with something that has been lowered but it looks like there is another 1" or so of room.

Shipping is probably really expensive because these things, although lighter than my old 95lb Craftsman 3 ton, still weigh 55lbs or so. Shipping a bunch by truck freight would be cheap per piece. If you don't get a huge discount on a group buy, you would still save $20 or more each on shipping if a bunch came on a pallet.


Ed
 
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