BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

What is the right brand of FSU (aka FSR) final stage resistor/unit to buy for the E39

107420 Views 179 Replies 59 Participants Last post by  High_Card
PICTURES EXPECTED!
[The intent is to refer others to this thread when they ask what FSR to buy!]

There is no proof ... but anecdotal evidence abounds of people purchasing supposedly "OEM" Final Stage Units (aka Final Stage Resistors) on Ebay and elsewhere that were either dead on arrival or didn't last more than a year.
- failed blower resistor (final stage resistor) not really dead

Apparently there are many brands out there:
Recommended: (I think)
- Sitronic/Bosch

Not recommended: (I think)
- GKR
- Behr
- Valeo,
- Siemens

Certainly not recommended: (I think)
- Meyle
- Hella
- Uro
- Denso
- Power Pro

As for recommended (and not recommended) brands, the threads are all over the place ... so ... this new thread is merely an attempt to consolidate people's FSR experiences with the right and wrong FSUs to purchase.
- FAN CONTROL GOES HAYWIRE: poorly ventilated final stage resistor/final stage unit (FSR/FSU) modules that are practically sure to go haywire due to poor heat-sink design (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) ... Autopsy (1) (2) often causing the battery to drain overnight (1) (2) (3) & how to isolate and replace the blower motor (1) (2) (3)

PLEASE post a picture of your FSU if you're going to post to this thread as a big part of the story is the branding of the FSU!

Bearing in mind most FSRs have three or four brandings, and that the GKR FSR (of whatever branding) is known to be lousy ... I ask for the record ...

What is the right brand of FSU to buy for the E39?

See less See more
81 - 100 of 180 Posts
For the record, there is a really weird looking FSU posted today, over here:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Fsu replacement

Here is a pic of the old (on the left) and new FSUs.



You can't see the tag on the new FSU, but it is a Behr/Hella Service model that was made in China. I gently chiseled up the epoxy from it (per kraft's great thread here): www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309399"]http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309399 and came up with this:



If you've looked at the pictures other people have posted, this doesn't look anything like those. This FSU has a fairly thick layer of epoxy underneath which is the circuit board. Surprisingly, the circuit board is surrounded by a layer of silicone. The circuit board itself is much smaller than the pictures of other circuit boards I've seen. I would bet that this is the reason this piece of crap failed... cheap Chinese circuit boards.

I tested the resistance between the posts and body per this:



...and my resistance values were different from those listed on the picture. Some were at the new value and some were at the old. I also tested resistance on the old FSU and the readings were fairly similar, some in the new range and some in the old.

It looks like I'm going to have to pay the piper with this purchase, but hey, it was only $50 for the Chinese one from autohaus, the same part from the dealer shouldn't be more than twice that, right? I called the only two local BMW dealerships in the Portland area and they both want $164! :rolleyes: This car is such a pain in the @$$ sometimes...

If buying and installing the factory BMW FSU doesn't fix this stupid battery drain issue, I'm going to seriously consider selling this car.
Ok, now that I'm back from the Portland BMW dealership (with a $164.35 lighter wallet), I've got some information to share with all of you that should hopefully clear up confusion in the future.

This is a pic of all three FSUs; the original on the left, the cheapo Chinese knockoff in the middle, and the BMW OEM dealership (German-manufactured) FSU on the right:



This is a slightly closer picture of the Chinese FSU next to the OEM FSU. Yeah, I know the Chinese heat sink is all F-ed up, I was attempting to remove the outer plastic casing with a hammer and got a little carried away...



Here's where it gets interesting:



This is a closeup of the Chinese FSU. As you can see, there's no visible markings other than the manufacturing ridges.

Here's a closeup of the same area on the German version:



There is some small print visible. Now, obviously this is not conclusive evidence, but it may be a tell-tale sign of a quality, German-made part and a cheap piece of doo-doo like I originally bought.

It's hard to tell through pictures, but the difference in quality between the German and Chinese versions are blindingly obvious in person. If you look closely, you can see the difference in the casting quality of the heat sinks. Talking to the guy at the parts counter at the dealership, he told me he had replaced one of these over five years ago on his Bimmer and had zero problems since. Plus, if I do have a problem in the future, I've got a two-year warranty. Not something I had with the Chinese version.

I'll keep you guys posted with another update in a couple of months... and hopefully it's a good one.
Bluebee, are you saying your recently failed FSU made by Behr was of German origin?? Not Chinese? If so, the mystery continues.....
Bluebee, are you saying your recently failed FSU made by Behr was of German origin?? Not Chinese? If so, the mystery continues.....
All my FSUs were German.
- The original (GKR) lasted about a decade
- The next lasted a few years (acu Germany)
- The next lasted five minutes (multiply branded, Sitronic)
- The next is in the car for a few days (multiply branded, Sitronic)
fsr failure

I've been a moocher on here for a good few years now,picking through for help when bits drop off. Today my wife reported that the heater blower had failed (on top of the duff battery which was why she was in the bim in the 1st place..)after hotwiring theblower it was obviously the fsr that had gone bang. Judging by thedate stamp the original fit ,15yrs ain't too bad! Dropping into my regular mechanics to collect the battery after telling him my tale of woe, he laughed and tossed me another hedgehog, exactly the same as my duff original.Ten mminutes and £10 uk later I'm blowing like a good one again! Failed hedgehog piccyed below. :thumbup:
See also:
- How to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1) & how to autopsy or repair solder cracks in your blower motor resistor (1) & how to replace your HVAC blower resistor (1) (E46) & what FSU is the right one to buy (1)
5
Posted for info:

The FSU/FSR recently failed on my '98 540i. It was discovered by way of the car alarm going off and a dead battery. After a little internet research on the car alarm I found several posts suggesting the FSU may drain the battery, causing the car alarm to sound.

I removed the old FSU from my car and fully charged the battery. The car then sat unused for 48hrs and the battery was still found to be fully charged. I then reinstalled the old FSU. Seven hours later, the car alarm sounded and the battery was found to have insufficient charge to start the car. Of note, the fan in the car had always operated normally and could not be heard running after the car was turned off. The only symptom was the dead battery which triggered the car alarm. Installation of the new FSU has resolved the battery drain issue. :thumbup:

Old FSU: Sitronic 29420000023604, Made in Germany, Valeo 985501V, BMW 6931680, Yellow sticker on top with 96893741.



Technology Electronic device Electronic component Electronics Circuit component


New FSU: URO, no labelling at all.

Font Technology




Technology Electronic device Electronic component


Given that so many FSU's have been reported to fail across all brands (including BMW) I thought I'd start with the least expensive FSU I could find ($39.15USD):

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2534797/

Should the new FSU fail, I'll be sure to update this thread.

Best,

Trent
See less See more
Given that so many FSU's have been reported to fail across all brands (including BMW) I thought I'd start with the least expensive FSU I could find ($39.15USD):

Trent
I'd have used the opposite logic.
This is clearly a part you DON'T want to skimp on.

My $50 Bher from AutoHauz works great 2 years after replacement.
My factory FSR failed at 15y/150K, so not bad at all.

Considering that this part may last 3 months or 15 years, I bought 2 used FSRs on ebay.
I made sure I bought OEM BMW (but used) FSRs.
I paid $15/each,which came from cars with accidents that people part out.

I leave the 2nd FSR in the glovebox as spare.
Best $30 spent.
So far so good.

---> A used OEM FSR is still better than a brand new no name Chinese FSR.
I'd have used the opposite logic.

This is clearly a part you DON'T want to skimp on.

My $50 Bher from AutoHauz works great 2 years after replacement.
Great! I'm glad we know Behr works for at least two years. I'll be the guinea pig for Uro. Here's my logic:

1. I'm not convinced that econobox's Behr didn't come from the same manufacturing plant as my Uro. As such, I'm not sure the $10 price gap was me skimping any more than econobox overpaying.

2. The FSU is easy to replace (5 minutes) and isn't required to use the car. There's no risk beyond the $40 part. If I end up needing another one, I'll pick another brand and report back.

Cheers,

Trent

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
Did some search and found out that Sitronic is a German company, while Valeo is French. They both make electronic car parts. Sitronic specializes in the cars' electronics and sensors, including climate control systems. In fact, the FSU is featured in one of their pictures. They may be suppliers of OEM parts to BMW since they look like big, global, well-established companies. I can't find anything on GKR. I noticed on your first 2 pictures that the Valeo numbers do not match, nor the BMW numbers on the FSU's - GKR vs Sitronic. My numbers all match with MatWiz's FSU, except for the 03 10, which may be date of manufacture.

Update: Behr is also German and may also be making OEM parts for the car companies...from Stuttgart mind you!

My only consolation is this forum telling me that I'm not alone :(
GKR Co. Ltd., is based out of Gyungbuk, KOREA.
Here is an FSU recently bought, according to this thread today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Updated FSU/FSR findings after replacing mine
Here are pics of the old and new

2
Here is an FSU recently bought, according to this thread today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Updated FSU/FSR findings after replacing mine
Next time please consider our product: APSX WB FSU: $39.99 free shipping in USA. Made in USA at wide-band.com



See less See more
Where are the pins <-WB->? :)
No pins. Please read about it on our website.
What is the right brand of FSU (aka FSR) final stage resistor/unit to buy for...

I would have been very interested in that new thing, if I had known about it 3 days ago. I just spent $50 on a new FSU.

Also I got quoted just under $100 from my BMW dealership but I do have around 25% off. I went aftermarket because I'm cheap.

Edit: made a spelling/ generally incoherent. Sorry I was tired this morning
I wish I had seen this yesterday. My FSU failed again and I already ordered 2 replacements which are on their way.
Has anyone used APSX Wide Brand FSR yet?
Review?
2
Next time please consider our product: APSX WB FSU: $39.99 free shipping in USA. Made in USA at wide-band.com
I'm not sure why we're not aware of this wide-band FSU replacement product, since a reading of the web page says all the right words about it being a better replacement part.

I know nothing about the wide-band FSU other than what's said on the web page, but, I like what I see so far.

For example, the wide-band FSU is apparently made in the USA.
It apparently doesn't get hotter than 40°C (104°F) so, maybe these solder cracks won't appear?
- How to repair solder cracks in your blower motor resistor (1)

Based on the web page, the wide-band FSU supposedly handles (a lot) more current than can the Behr original (30 amps versus 20 amps, despite the 30 Amp fuse #75:
- How to test the infamous fuse 75 (1)

Interestingly, at any one setting, the wide band FSU apparently causes the blower to blow more air (I guess that means higher current to the blower motor pins as described here):
- How to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1)

One question for the wide-band folks ... you mention at high speeds the Wide Band FSU stays cooler than OEM, but, we've surmised (perhaps incorrectly?) that the lower speeds cause the highest power drop across the FSU.
- What setting to put your air conditioner blower motor fan control at to protect the FSU (1)

Is our assumption wrong?

Attachments

See less See more
Bluebee, you're damn right why didn't we know about this. I literally spent $50 on a crap made in china FSU a day before I learned about this thing.

It's cheaper and better why the F---- wouldn't you buy this


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
[if] It's cheaper and better why ... wouldn't you buy this
I just opened a new thread, to learn more about this potentially exciting new solution, to help all of us:
- Information requested for a $40 APSX WB wide-band (way better?) FSU on their BMW E39?
See less See more
81 - 100 of 180 Posts
Top