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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

SIZE: Lots of good information for the DIY Door Leak repair....except for the size of the 3M Windo-weld. Some threads mention 3/8" and others mention 1/4". 3M also makes a 5/16". Is there a size specified by BMW.

TEMP: Is there a recommended minimum temperature at which this product should not be applied below. I could not find this info at 3M's web site.

After reading many threads, I removed the barriers and cleaned the residue from both the door panels and the barrier. For the door, I took photos so I could copy the route of the original seal. I then removed the sealant, cleaned the residue with "Goof-Off" solvent, then removed any residual solvent with Windex. The barrier took a lot more labor. Using one of the thread recommendations, I used the balled-up sealant to dab off the remaining sealant from the barrier.

I'm going to wait until I can get to a friends heated garage to reapply the new Windo-Weld....once I determine the correct size.

Thanks for any information on the sizing.


JBono
 

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Lots of good information for the DIY Door Leak repair....
I don't know the answer, because I've never done it, but, these threads "might" have the answer ...

- REAR DOOR VAPOR BARRIER FAILS CAUSING WATER PUDDLES: improper adhesive used on rear door vapor barrier seals that allow rain water to fill the rear footwell (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
bluebee,

Thank you for the links. I have seen most, but not all of them. As for a size consensus, there seems to be several sizes currently in use as follows:

3/16"
Size of a pencil
Size of your pinky finger

When did the pinky finger become a unit of measure...:rofl: LOL

JBono
 

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I have a roll from the dealer...it should be approximately the diameter of a pencil. Temp should not matter....if it is cool out, then use a hair dryer or heat gun after application and get it warm, then press firmly with your thumbs and fingers to ensure a good seal.
 

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I found the thicker the better. After the 3'rd attempt to seal the darn door vapor barrier, I installed 2 side by side 3/8" rows around the bottom of the door and around that dreaded outside corner that always comes loose. Used a wallpaper seam roller to spread it out and get good continuous pressure applied and no more problems.

First attempt: Reheat and attach.... failed in 3 weeks
2'nd attempt: Remove old Butyl, clean up door and vapor barrier with wax remover..... Failed in about 8 weeks
3'rd attempt: Removed new Butyl, clean up door, installed new vapor barriers.... It failed... don't remember how long
4'th attempt: Removed new Butyl 3/8" double-row.... Been leak free for over one year
 

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Wallpaper seam roller is an awesome idea! I am going to the hardware store down the street and pick one up for future use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey,

Just sitting here watching Snow-mageddon on the evening news, thinking about how to get good adhesion. I thought, I have a wallpaper seam roller, I bet that would work. Great minds think alike!

Thanks.

JBono333
 

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Say people, I see I'm not the only one that's had to re-do a vapor barrier more than twice!

Was wondering.... is it really necessary to re-seal the barrier where it's come loose on the upper half of the door frame? My feeling is that the rainwater is only getting in where it finds a path on the lower half (probably more like lower edge only....).
 

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I only resealed the bottom portion of the barrier. I used a nice thick line and be sure to just lay the barrier on the sealant. (don't apply so much pressure where the sealant oozes out) Then let sit for maybe an hour before you reinstall.
 

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Say people, I see I'm not the only one that's had to re-do a vapor barrier more than twice!

Was wondering.... is it really necessary to re-seal the barrier where it's come loose on the upper half of the door frame? My feeling is that the rainwater is only getting in where it finds a path on the lower half (probably more like lower edge only....).
I have seen it leak half way up the side of the foam barrier, so I would make sure the entire thing is sealed up good. Hair dryer and seam roller! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Door seals repaired:rofl: Hosed down both sides and the only drips came through the holes for the interior panels (they weren't installed yet). Installed the panels and will take her to car wash when I get a chance.
 

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what are the symptoms of this failure? I've been to the car wash dozens of times, would I find moisture on the carpeting? Would I know it if there was a problem? Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey Golfer,

The first time I noticed something, it was a musty smell. Upon investigating, I found it very wet under the rear floor mats. It seemed it was the whole floor and I couldn't tell where it came from. It had rained the night before and I assumed I left the window slightly open.

A friend said his E39 got wet in the rear floor, but his was due to clogged A/C vents in the rear center console.

The way to tell is as follows:

If the wetness was can be traced from the floor up to the rear center console, it is most likely due to clogged A/C.

If the wetness can be traced from the floor to the rear door sill, it is most likely the vapor barrier.

After a gigantic rain storm accompanied by a small tornado, I opened my rear door and I could see the path of the water from the door sill, down to the floor.

Hope this helps.

JBono
 

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what are the symptoms of this failure? I've been to the car wash dozens of times, would I find moisture on the carpeting? Would I know it if there was a problem? Thanks in advance
After a hard rain, carefully open the rear doors keeping one hand totally dry. Place your hand under the rear door just below the interior trim panel. This metal portion of the door between the door gasket and the interior trim panel needs to be 100% dry. No dampness. If damp, the damn seal is still leaking. After getting mine sealed after every rain storm I make this check. Been doing it for 1 year. Still moisture free. :)
 
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