BimmerFest BMW Forum banner
1 - 20 of 53 Posts

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What DIY jobs would you combine in tandem (while you're there)?

One of the hardest things for me is the research that comes BEFORE doing a job, especially if something like an alternator blows up in the middle of the day and I have to rush to get the right set of parts (ask me how I know).

In my situation, I would have done the cooling system and the drive belt system along with the alternator, if I had only known what parts I would be removing that were common to both jobs.

Therefore, it would be helpful if we had, ahead of time, a list of typical recommendations for what jobs to COMBINE in tandem.

I'll make a starting list, but I would expect others to add value so that we can eventually summarize with a really good list of jobs to combine, while you're there.

Mostly from the parts list thread, here is the summary I have so far (please improve!):

- People recommend doing the cooling system & belt drive overhauls together as the parts removed are similar (with or w/o alternator).

- People recommend the power steering PS hose check/fix & oil filter housing (OFH) gasket check/fix while doing the belt-drive/charging system overhaul.

- People add spark-plug replacement when doing the VANOS seals as the same parts are removed (I think they also do the o-rings at the bottom of the oil dipstick at the same time).

- It's common to do the crankcase ventilation valve (CCV) all by itself but some recommend a valve cover gasket (VCG) replacement at the same time. I'm not sure, but I think they do the idle control valve (ICV) at the same time (please correct me if I'm wrong so we all benefit from the result).

- Brake pads, shoes, and sensors often have rotors done as part of a regular brake job (if needed), and most recommend a complete brake fluid flush just after rebedding the pads to the rotors.

- Whenever replacing the battery and battery vent and explosive charge, you can check/repair your trunk loom wiring at the same time.

- When doing an oil and filter change, replace the o-rings on the oil filter tube and even the leaky 0-ring on the power steering fluid reservoir to stop that nasty grimy leak at the top of the PS fluid reservoir.

- When polishing headlight covers, check/replace the crumbling plastic inner headlight adjusters if necessary.

- When replacing all four tires, consider having the alignment checked once the new tires are on and balanced.

- While installing the radio mount DICE Silverline, consider adding a 4-foot (3-foot is too short) AUX cable at the same time you're installing the DICE.

- Most recommend doing the entire thrust arm (e.g., using EACTuning Meyle HD) when there is a need to replace just the thrust arm bushings.

QUESTION:
What other tandom jobs would you combine (while you're there)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
Depending on the mileage you should consider replacing the font wheel hubs along with the pads and rotors.
 

·
WTB - your E39 M5
Joined
·
6,216 Posts
When filling up with gas I also clean my front and rear windshield

Sent from my DROIDX using BimmerApp
 

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
font wheel hubs
Hmmm... what do you mean by "hub".

Googling for "bmw wheel hub", it looks like a ~$100 part that only fits on the front axle. A bunch of hits refer to a "BMW Wheel Bearing Hub", so maybe its the bearing with the parts surrounding the bearing?

At the very least, it would seem to be a good idea to CHECK the wheel bearing (hub) when doing the brakes so that's a good find! Thanks.

front and rear windshield
:) Not to mention checking about half the dozen fluids & tire pressure.

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
Real OEM calls it a "Wheel hub with bearing" part number - 31221093427



Hope that helps.
 

·
Technical Graphite > ALL
Joined
·
446 Posts
When I did my cooling system (and my water pump, the second time...) I replaced all belts and tensioners as preventative maintenance. Generally any "system" like the SAS, AC, cooling, etc, should be replaced as a system for best results and less chance of an old part going bad and killing off the new parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,976 Posts
Bluebee--If your going to tackle the Vanos seals--the valve cover goes with that--if your cooling system needs updating--add that to the job--add the ccv valve and 4 hoses along with the oil filter housing gasket--by doing all of these at once you have the extra needed room to make the job easyier--once the cooing system has been removed then tackle the ccv and ofg--you will have to remove the throttlebody to get to the ccv--so clean the tb and idle control valve at the same time--On the front wheel hubs--stay away from that one
might be more than you need to tackle--thats a rough job for me with a good air compressor and impact wrenchs---I would also replace the 02 sensors and spark plugs when doing the vanos and all
Hope that helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,925 Posts
For those p[lanning to keep their cars, WRT to any front suspension work after 75K, I'd recommend doing what cnn recommends: Replace everything while your in there. That includes thrust arms, control arms, sway bar links, tie rods, and struts. While many components may not exhibit any symptoms of failure, everything (struts, ball joints, bushings, etc.) on the front end is worn. The difference in ride and handling is transformational. And you won't have to worry about any front suspension work for another 75K or so.

Maybe it was just me but my experience with the CCV was that that job was the biggest PITA. I would do that job solo unless you are removing something (e.g. intake manifold) to improve access.

WRT Vanos, have some vaccum tubing available as you will probably crack the old secondary air pump valve vacuum tube when moving it as everything rubber gets brittle over the exhaust manifold area. Wait til you break up pieces of your valve cover gasket in that area! If you're in there, you may as well replace the SAP valve as that is good preventive medicine for saving your pump. If that valve fails, the pump costs $300+.
 

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Vanos seals ... valve cover ... cooling system ... ccv valve and 4 hoses ... oil filter housing gasket ... throttlebody ... idle control valve ... 02 sensors ... spark plugs
Wow. That's a BIG job! :)

- Vanos
- Cooling system
- VGC
- CCV
- 4 hoses
- OFH gasket
- throttlebody cleaning
- ICV
- O2 sensors
- spark plugs

It scares me just thinking about it ... but from the standpoint of "while you're already there", it seems to make sense.

We REALLY need to help others (like me) plan ahead on that biggie!

any "system" like the SAS, AC, cooling, etc, should be replaced as a system
Hmmmm.... we don't have the Secondary Air System (SAS) listed yet.

QUESTION:
What tandem job goes with the SAS system overhaul?

thrust arms, control arms, sway bar links, tie rods, and struts.
Sounds like a good recommendation. Let's flesh it out so that I (and by definition, all dummies) can understand it.

I do not know suspension components well so I'm unsure if the "ball joints" are already covered in your list ... but how does this sound as tandom jobs?

- Thrust arm bushings (with the thrust arm already attached by EACTuning)
- Control arms (are the ball joints on the ends of these???)
- Sway bar links (is that the same as a 'sway bar'???)
- Tie rod ends (I think these have ball joints on the ends)
- Struts (are these the front shocks but not the springs???)

Is this just the list for the front?
What would the list for the rear be?

CCV ... I would do that job solo
You're the second person to say the CCV is so big of a job, to do it solo. So, we need to make note of that in the recommendations.

Vanos...secondary air pump valve vacuum tube...valve cover gasket ...SAP valve
Is this your recommendation to do in tandem?
- VANOS
- SAS vacuum tube(s)?
- VCG
- SAP valve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,925 Posts
Hmmmm.... we don't have the Secondary Air System (SAS) listed yet.

QUESTION:
What tandem job goes with the SAS system overhaul?

The secondary air system consists of a pressure actuated check valve and an air pump. The valve opens up to allow the air pump to add air into the exhaust stream during cold startup. The two items are typically replaced in tandem as a valve failure usually leads to pump failure when exhaust gases condense inside the pump. Replacing the check valve is considered preventive maintenance for valve failure, as the valve is "only" about $70 but the pump is in excess of $300!

Sounds like a good recommendation. Let's flesh it out so that I (and by definition, all dummies) can understand it.

I do not know suspension components well so I'm unsure if the "ball joints" are already covered in your list ... but how does this sound as tandom jobs?

- Thrust arm bushings (with the thrust arm already attached by EACTuning) YES
- Control arms (are the ball joints on the ends of these???) YES
- Sway bar links (is that the same as a 'sway bar'???) No, they attach to the ends of the sway bars and support bracket
- Tie rod ends (I think these have ball joints on the ends) YES
- Struts (are these the front shocks but not the springs???) YES, struts are simply shocks that are used in a McPherson strut suspension systems. They have a threaded end rod instead of a bolt bracket

Is this just the list for the front? YES
What would the list for the rear be? Don't know, haven't done that yet

You're the second person to say the CCV is so big of a job, to do it solo. So, we need to make note of that in the recommendations.

Is this your recommendation to do in tandem?
- VANOS
- SAS vacuum tube(s)?
- VCG
- SAP valve
The VCG must be replaced when doing the Vanos unless it is reasonably new. The SAS vacuum tube should be available as I have broken 3 in the 4 Vanos jobs I have done. The SAP valve is only replaced as optional preventative maintenance.
 

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Based on this thread, when you need a new clutch, consider the following:

1. DMF - dual mass flywheel (yours may be OK but they are a wear item)
2. engine/crank rear main seal
3. trans input seal
4. trans guide tube (throwout bearing rides on there 24/7)
5. trans selector shaft seal
6. trans output seal
7. clutch slave cylinder
8. trans plastic pivot pin and spring
9. trans lever arm (moves throw out bearing - may be OK)
10. Make SURE he uses new pressure plate bolts (got mine from dealer)
11. exhaust gaskets and new copper/bronze nuts
12. New shift console bushings (you can do SSK later) and plastic washers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
393 Posts
Im about to tackle this combined job,
Valley pan
CCV
valve cover gaskets
and a few cooling system odd and ends that i didn't change yet. after this job every part in the cooling system that can fail has been replaced on my e39
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,925 Posts
Just a suggestion based on recent experience with my daughter's Civic. When changing a part that can affect engine performance (e.g. spark plugs, coils, O2 sensor, etc.), consider expending the extra effort to do each job individually rather than in tandem. If a problem occurs (such as reduced performance, bad idle, hesitation, stalling, etc.) , this will allow you to isolate the cause of a problem.

After I replaced her plugs and O2 sensor together last weekend, the car has a strange hesitation that only occurs immediately after startup (cold or warm). It feels like fuel starvation and always happens only once per startup during the first acceleration and then disappears. It does not recur until the next startup. So now I have to go back and troubleshoot. Which means putting back the old plugs and seeing if that's the cause and then putting back the old O2 sensor. A PITA. Oh well... :mad:
 

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
GSA1 kindly helped premo421 do his VANOS seals last weekend in NY:
- Please help me!!.. Vanos seals install

He reports these 'expected' tandem jobs:
He already had the Beisan seals, and a valve cover gasket and plugs. I told him to get fresh coolant, valve cover bolt grommets, new oil and filter, and new belts and come back on Sat AM.
And, these unexpected tandem jobs:
when we dropped the belly pan, we found a tensioner pulley and ball bearings sittiing there ... We got to the fan bolt removal process and broke the hold down tool ... SO...I decided to remove the entire cooling system from the car at the water pump. SO... I did the vanos seals, changed the plugs, changed the tensioner and belts, replaced the Intake side CPS (more sbout this later), and checked the throttle body boot for leaks.put back the coils and cooling system hoses. The shroud he had was held together with zip ties and no rivets or brackets. So I donated my old shroud ...
But that's not all:
about the "New" CPS I just put in...Guess what, it's a Chinese-made piece of cr**

I pull the code...yes, CPS. He xplains to me that he was getting intermittent CELs, so he bought a CPS. Long story shory, I change the CPS back out. Now the car runs perfectly!!
And, yet another job in waiting:
I found the Secondary Air Pump hose separated into 2 pieces.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
393 Posts
GSA1 kindly helped premo421 do his VANOS seals last weekend in NY:
- Please help me!!.. Vanos seals install

He reports these 'expected' tandem jobs:
And, these unexpected tandem jobs:
But that's not all:
And, yet another job in waiting:
I ordered a CPS to keep around for back up, I got the Febi CPS and it was made in chine CRAP! The little rubber gasket was missing, and the pins in the connector were all F$#&ked up. Loose! I returned it and got the original BMW sensor. Unbelievable how much better the quality was,
Crappy CPS
 
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
Top